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It won't start!


95blazer

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Okay here we go it has been a frustrating day :angry: I am almost done with a full rebuild of my shee, today was the day it was supposed to start, but it was a no go. I just rebuilt the top end with .0070 over pro-x pistons, cylinders bored by duncan, head milled for race gas by duncan. I purchased some used carbs because mine had stripped threads at the caps. I also had the flywheel lightened by duncan. I disassembled and cleaned the carbs with carb cleaner and rejetted them as follows 30 pilots, 340 mains, needle on 3rd clip, air screws 2 turns out. I assembled everything very carefully, making sure all mating surfaces were clean and sealed perfectly. I have new UPP intakes also. Today I went and got some VP c-12 and mixed it 36:1 with Maxima K2. The choke tube is installed, the tors is removed and disconnected, I have spark at both plugs. I removed the degree key and installed the stock key to eliminate that potential problem. Still have blue spark, and there is fuel in both float bowls but motor will not fire. I also realized that I had the carb slides reversed so I switched those so the cutout is facing the air filters, but it still won't start. There are also new plugs, and brand new K&N clamp-ons installed. I have kicked this thing so many times my foot hurts and will probably be bruised tomorrow!!! It seems like a fuel problem to me, but the carbs are getting fuel to the float bowl. Does anyone have any other guesses or advice as to what I should look at? Please let me know what you think, it would make my day to solve this.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Derek

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check to see if your plugs are wet after trying to start it that way you know if you are getting fuel into the cylinder, all the tors stuff is unhooked correct even the little black box at the front left side of your gas tank, try unhooking all the wires for your e-brake if you havent already. try pull starting it after you get tired of kicking.

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The tors has been disconnected for years including the black box. The plugs are wet, but not as wet as I would have thought. I really don't want to pull start it, because it is a fresh topend and the rings have not had time to seat or had any premix lube the cylinder walls. I did however oil the cylinders and piston at install, so don' think kicking it will do any damage.

 

Thanks,

 

Derek

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Derek if you want to swing it by my place I'll get it working for you for say a few bucks.... don't worry I don't charge shop rates. You can ask Inflames and Justintoxicated about my work. There was another guy on here that I did a ton of work for TRD4X4 but it was actually his girlfriends bike and they broke up. Anyway I'll PM you my number if you want help.

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Thanks for the offer!!! I might take you up on it, but first I want to give it a serious go myself. It has to be something simple, I mean it seems like I have checked everything. Hopefully when I get back at it tomorrow, it fires right up. There is a chance that when I had the carb slides installed backwards, it got flooded and just needs some time to dry out. I guess I will find out tomorrow....

 

Thanks,

 

Derek

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Try some fresh plugs and don't be afraid to hold the gas open to get it started. Make sure you have your thumb on the kill switch as it could be an air leak that is causing the problem starting. You should do a leak down test as well if you have the tools to do it. How much oil and what type did you use to assemble the topend? You might have used too much if the plugs are coated with oil. Good luck.... and if you need help give me a ring... I have another machine coming over tomorrow for some suspension setup anyway.

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Well I got it started today after finding a huge air leak at my boost bottle. It seems the UPP intakes don't seal very well to the boost bottle with the stock clamps. So I got some hose clamps and problem solved, the motor lost less than half a pound of pressure in 6 minutes during the leakdown test. It was also flooded from all of the kicking yesterday, so I dried everything out and it now starts 1st kick. Now the right cylinder is not firing at low rpms and kicks in at the high rpms, where it also backfires and misses. The left cylinder is running perfect. Both carbs are jetted identical with the airscrews 1.5 turns out, they are also synched. I am going to check the pilot jet and replace the reeds tommorow, hopefully that does the trick!!!

 

Thanks,

 

Derek

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Well I got it started today after finding a huge air leak at my boost bottle. It seems the UPP intakes don't seal very well to the boost bottle with the stock clamps. So I got some hose clamps and problem solved, the motor lost less than half a pound of pressure in 6 minutes during the leakdown test. It was also flooded from all of the kicking yesterday, so I dried everything out and it now starts 1st kick. Now the right cylinder is not firing at low rpms and kicks in at the high rpms, where it also backfires and misses. The left cylinder is running perfect. Both carbs are jetted identical with the airscrews 1.5 turns out, they are also synched. I am going to check the pilot jet and replace the reeds tommorow, hopefully that does the trick!!!

 

Thanks,

 

Derek

I went through 2 sets of plugs withing 2 hours of my rebuild b/c all the extra oil that I used while assembling it, plugs are cheap... always check the plugs before you go replacing shit. I learned that the hard way.

 

 

Mike

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Just as I suspected the pilot jet was clogged. Man it s running so sweet now, what a beautiful sound. Now I just need to install my new fenders, suspension, grab bar, and lights and I will be ready for the Glamis season!!! Thanks for all of your advice, I am so glad it is running perfect now.

 

Thanks,

 

Derek

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