jjfizzle51 Posted September 6, 2004 Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 hey i went up to the dunes last weekend and i was pulling 3rd up the mountain i was wondering what i would need to pull 4th i'm going to get some skat trak haulers soon all i got on her now is toomey t-5s jets and toomey 2-1 clamp ons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Smoker Posted September 6, 2004 Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 Cheap mods are planing the head, boring it out and running wiseco or vito's pistons in it. Maybe a cool head or noss head with smaller domes. You didn't mention you had the air box modified...I would do that first of all. If you want real balls go stroke it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Smoker Posted September 6, 2004 Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 Oh and get it ported too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toomey Banshee Posted September 6, 2004 Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 Cool head with smaller domes to up your compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjfizzle51 Posted September 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 i dont have an airbox anyway if i get a noss cool head will i feel the power diffrence and will an advance timing key do anything thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Smoker Posted September 7, 2004 Report Share Posted September 7, 2004 I can't really say anything about the timing advance because I haven't done it yet. I went from a piped completely stock motor with a modified airbox and reed spacers with a jet kit to a ported, planed head and bored out wiseco machine and I have to say there is a huge difference. I say it increased my powerband by about half as much, before I was shifting quick because the powerband would just kick in and then there would be nothing left. Now it pulls even without the powerband kicking in, and when it does it lasts so much longer I can tell a big difference when I wheelie the bike. You need to start getting more compression, you're better off spending the extra money and getting a cool head, because first of all you don't need a head gasket anymore because it's an O-ring head, second you can change domes so if one fucks up or you want more compression just slap different domes in. Timing advance is cheap, and I think someone on this board lightens flywheels too which helps. You can always just plane your stock head, it's cheaper. I am running 140 lbs of compression off a new top end with the head planed, and I was running 100 before. If I were you I would: Bore it 20 thousandths over and put wiseco pro-lites in (or vitos) start with fresh jugs Shave the head 30 thousandths of an inch (or get a cool head) have a good dune port done timing advance w/lightened flywheel These are some relatively cheap and easy mods to do, and you'll notice a big difference. You can always go with a stroker crank, big bore kits or something but it all depends on how much you drive your bike and how much money you want to spend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted September 7, 2004 Report Share Posted September 7, 2004 DO NOT BORE YOUR CYLINDERS unless they need it for a rebuild. It doesn't give you enough if any power for the money. Your biggest bang for the buck is porting. Get a good builder to port your engine and you'll like it. Only trouble is sometimes it takes more money than just the port job like bigger carbs and head to make more compression or compensate for the port work. Compression should help your situation too. If you go to high you'll have to run race fuel. You should bump that timing. 4 to 5 degrees. You'll top out with a little less rpms, but you won't notice that. You'll notice more snap throughout. You can always gain from gearing, and it's you're cheapest A lighter flywheel only helps once you hit the throttle for snappyness. I don't think it'll help you get into another gear, but it makes it snappy and on the power now feeling. I think torque is something you need to pull into another gear. If all you have is top end horsepower and not enough bottom torque, you won't be able to shift up without it bogging out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Smoker Posted September 8, 2004 Report Share Posted September 8, 2004 DO NOT BORE YOUR CYLINDERS unless they need it for a rebuild. It doesn't give you enough if any power for the money. Sorry not to confuse you, I wasn't saying just boring out will give you alot more power (compared to a good stock bore), but if you are running stock pistons and by the looks of it you are, you should do a compression test first then see. If you are running low, get rid of those old stock pistons and get some high compression aftermarket ones, you'll notice it's snappier. There's nothing wrong with starting with a fresh bore, but don't waste a bore job either, you only have so many. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted September 8, 2004 Report Share Posted September 8, 2004 DO NOT BORE YOUR CYLINDERS unless they need it for a rebuild. It doesn't give you enough if any power for the money. Sorry not to confuse you, I wasn't saying just boring out will give you alot more power (compared to a good stock bore), but if you are running stock pistons and by the looks of it you are, you should do a compression test first then see. If you are running low, get rid of those old stock pistons and get some high compression aftermarket ones, you'll notice it's snappier. There's nothing wrong with starting with a fresh bore, but don't waste a bore job either, you only have so many. Exactly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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