First ride with my LSR A-arms.

[sredish]

I was out in the woods this morning. Pounded it hard for 4 hours. Was in 2nd and 3rd gears in the tight stuff for the most part, and the gaps between the trees averaged about 1.5" on each side of my front tires. Some gaps were narrower and some were wider, but for the most part, it was tight as hell. It tracked awesome, went where I pointed and was much more stable. The backend seems to slide a little bit more, that's good and bad depending on the situation, I guess.

 

I did hit the front left tire really hard once, and when I did, the rear scooted to the left which pointed me to the other side and then my right hit, kinda like a pinball machine. The left rear tire hit hard also. The front hit so hard, I was sure I busted something, busted a bead, or bent my rim or something, but it did nothing.

 

Only thing, I do notice the difference at high speed with the negative camber. It's not too bad, but it will depend on the track. It turns SOOO good that unless there are some seriously high speed runs, I doubt I will change it. I might bump them out just a little, but I don't know. It's not so much that is was unstable at high speed, but it did want to wander a little, like the right tire would grab then the left would grab, but it wasn't too bad, just a little more sensitive I guess. I think I'm around -4.5 degrees of camber. -4 might be more appropriate or even -3.5.

 

Steering was awesome, since I also had added the steel lines and steering stabilizer. The brakes went from a full pull with three fingers to lock 'em up to a single finger with light pressure. Had much more brake control and not needing much pressure was a lot easier on my right hand.

 

The steering stabilizer helped a lot as well. Under normal circumstances, there are small logs, roots, stumps, erosion and loads of nasty shit in the trees and the stabilizer literall took all the harshness and jerkiness out of the bars. I started out in the 3rd setting and ended up in the 4th.

 

Cool, later fellas.

[Banshee17Racing]

Does Galfer have a site for their brake lines? What kind of steering stabilizer do you have? I've always wondered what it'd feel like with a stabilizer. Was it that much harder to make tight turns with it really grabbing?

[txblueshee]

I know what you mean about the front end acting like it wants to wander.... only time I notice it is on concrete when my front tire catches a rut(concrete sucked in from big trucks) and it grabs it and wants to go that direction. I don't think I would've said this before I bought them but I think a-arms are well worth there price.

 

 

Mike

[PUSH THE THROTTLE]

I can't hardly wait till my Quicksands show up I am in withdrawl. Can you post some pics? Also what did you do to hold your brake lines in place?

 

steel lines

 

Can anybody point me to a place to get some steel lines for my '87 every book I have says '90 and up? I know they did change the brakes but are the lines different?

[John19]

Post pics of the arms and where you got the from and how much, I'am looking for new arms and shocks.

[txblueshee]

Post pics of the arms and where you got the from and how much, I'am looking for new arms and shocks.

Quicksand +2+1 arms w/ chrome uppers: 565$

Elka shocks (used): 312$

Elka rebuild: 250$

 

Total: 1127.00$ One of the best front ends money can buy

 

 

Mike

[sredish]

The steering stabilizer I have is a standard Denton style. I got it from Dave at Noss Machine. I also got my brake line clamps from Noss Machine.

 

I'm sure Galfer makes lines for you '87. The website is www.galferusa.com, but it is under construction. There's a phone number and they're good to deal with.

 

John19, definitely let Elka rebuild the rear. It's loads cheaper and is a good setup.

 

Here's a pic or so, but one didn't have the lines on at the time. In the two pics, the brake lines are the blue line running from the master and down behind the a-arms. I shoulda got clear, not blue, I thought the blue would be darker.

 

[rebelbanshee2]

i got lines for my 89 from denton racing give them a try

[PUSH THE THROTTLE]

Sredish nice looking shee.

[Meat]

Only thing, I do notice the difference at high speed with the negative camber. It's not too bad, but it will depend on the track. It turns SOOO good that unless there are some seriously high speed runs, I doubt I will change it. I might bump them out just a little, but I don't know. It's not so much that is was unstable at high speed, but it did want to wander a little, like the right tire would grab then the left would grab, but it wasn't too bad, just a little more sensitive I guess. I think I'm around -4.5 degrees of camber. -4 might be more appropriate or even -3.5.

 

Scott they look good. Just got dial em in now. Sounds like you should be adjusting your caster. If it steers to fast, the quad can be dangerous, especially on a quad like the Banshee where your flyin' up to high rates of speed very quickly. By lookin at your pictures, your caster looks like its setup to steer quick. Lay that caster setting back to re-gain your high speed stability. Fiddle with the caster setting until you get the perfect mixture of sharp turning with high speed stability. And concerning your camber, it does look a little too much. Id agree with the 3.5 or even 3 degrees on your camber.

[sredish]

Scott they look good. Just got dial em in now.

Edited September 8, 2004 by sredish

[DUNEDEMON]

Caster is adjusted where the upper a-arm mounts to the heim joint, the heim will thread in and out of the a-arm tube, and be secured by the jam nut, you want positive caster (top of spindles "leaned" towards the rear of the bike) I run 8 deg positive.

[racer]

can some explain exactly what caster is and what camber is. ive got a good idea but i want to know the difference in the two and the correct definition of each.

[PUSH THE THROTTLE]

Here's a link to the Lonestar Faqs they explain caster, camber, and toe.

 

http://www.lsracing.com/installguides.php?step=4&igid=5

 

They give suggestions on the settings depending on type of riding.

[sredish]

Caster is adjusted where the upper a-arm mounts to the heim joint, the heim will thread in and out of the a-arm tube, and be secured by the jam nut, you want positive caster (top of spindles "leaned" towards the rear of the bike) I run 8 deg positive.

yeah, i realized that about an hour after my last post here. i was thinking about the arms during installation and realized the heim joints are where it djusts. I'll maybe look at that tonight, not really looking forward to dicking with that, we'll see where they're at.