locogato11283 Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 (edited) Man like you i have tried to jet my topend in. But i think i have a Flow problem with my Mikuni Old school round slide. All the info is in my SIG, Jets are differnt than Keihins. But right now 270 main 35 pilots 2nd notch, cutway is 2.0 Needle is 6pd17 never checked the needle jet size, my next change is going back to 32.5 pilot and leaner cutway at 3.0 cutaway?? whats up with that? thats got something to do with the slides right? how do you adjust that shizzle? man i wish you had 35mm pwk's. then id know just what to run. Edited September 14, 2004 by locogato11283 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooling Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 To adjust the cutaway (witch is a fixed jet)take the slide out of the carb and set it on a flat surface just like it is positioned in the carb ,you will see the angle, take a height gage and find the highest part of the angle scribe up about .020 and make a line, then set up the slide and grind zero from the bottom of the slide angle to the new scribed line , this leans out the the the flow, and the opposite is true ,you can grind off the bottom of the slide to make it richer but that requires makeing sure you can adjust your cable and idle slot works. (slide is down)THINK ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE DOING !,I say this because it cost,s a butt load to to buy slides to try, (to get rid of a bog!. ) sugest to get the lowest angle slde and work with that, sounds like most of you need a richer cut away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 To adjust the cutaway (witch is a fixed jet)take the slide out of the carb and set it on a flat surface just like it is positioned in the carb ,you will see the angle, take a height gage and find the highest part of the angle scribe up about .020 and make a line, then set up the slide and grind zero from the bottom of the slide angle to the new scribed line , this leans out the the the flow, and the opposite is true ,you can grind off the bottom of the slide to make it richer but that requires makeing sure you can adjust your cable and idle slot works. (slide is down)THINK ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE DOING !,I say this because it cost,s a butt load to to buy slides to try, (to get rid of a bog!. ) sugest to get the lowest angle slde and work with that, sounds like most of you need a richer cut away! well for the hell of it last night i threw on the stock carbs. got them jetted at what i thought would be pretty close. i ran it and it does the same fuckin thing. i ran 350 mains and 30 pilots. i came back from riding and the plugs looked good. it idled fine so im pretty sure that jetting is very close. it still had the dead spot in exactly the same place. as a matter of fact i didnt really notice a decrese in power with the stock carbs as opposed to my 35mm carbs. hmm. im stumped as to what it is. ive had toomeys on there and it did the same thing as well so i dont think its the pipes. my domes are 19cc so i think they are alright. im runnin an open air filter with boss intake and v force reeds. if it is in the jetting it is such a small problem i cant find it. ive tried the neeldes that come with the 35mm carbs and also one taper size leaber and richer. the leaner needles made it run like complete shit and the richer ones i couldnt tell any difference. i dont know what my next step it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reded Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 Mine did the exact same thing. I've still got the stock carbs though. I thought it was just in the carbs and was preparing to shell out the dough for new 35's. After I got about 5 or 6 hrs on the engine it started to run like hell and now I don't have a flat spot. I don't know if I should buy the damn carbs or not. It's gotta make more power with them, but I don't wanna go back to the "blahs". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBrian Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 (edited) My brain is fried at the moment but: Are you supposed to hook a balance tube to the 35's? Or are they to run individually. Edited September 14, 2004 by BansheeBrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prichard9966 Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 your boss intake has a crossover built into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBrian Posted September 15, 2004 Report Share Posted September 15, 2004 Sometimes I forget the important things that count. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted September 15, 2004 Report Share Posted September 15, 2004 Neither of us have the passion, but we both had different builders and had similiar dead spots like you guys. I had the spacer plate w/ stock head and Rod had his stock head cut for the 2mm....... so you think it might be the spacer plate causing this??? I don't think the spacer plate as much as the dome shape, squish, and compression. Get all 3 right and your combo will make it work.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted September 15, 2004 Report Share Posted September 15, 2004 Neither of us have the passion, but we both had different builders and had similiar dead spots like you guys. I had the spacer plate w/ stock head and Rod had his stock head cut for the 2mm....... so you think it might be the spacer plate causing this??? I don't think the spacer plate as much as the dome shape, squish, and compression. Get all 3 right and your combo will make it work.... its in the works as we speak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooling Posted September 15, 2004 Report Share Posted September 15, 2004 The spacer plate is for port timing so the builder does not have to grind so much in the top of the transfer ports to get to the 130 degree open duration,(not enough wall thickness, will break through on a banshee motor to get it right)134 degrees appox is what you want with larger volume pipes,this does lower crank case presure slighty but not enough that you would notice on a banshee motor,the spacer has nothing to do with the head design other than more work to machineing the head, put a degree wheel on the fly wheel and bring to top dead center and check the port timing to make sure you are @ 79 to 80 degree`s on the exuast and @ 113 after top dead center on the tranfers,if this is close and you have tryed all jetting combo`s, most importantly richer cutaways, and you still have a dead spot check to make sure that the transfers have been ground the same on all of them,this where you go from 70 to 90 hp check to see that the upswept angle is no greater than 3 degrees and that the pitch is towards the center (stock sucks pitched up and back) if this is all good then check your head, put a piece of SOFT lead on each side of the top of the piston directly over the rist pin and roll it back and forth and measure the lead it should be .o40 on the outer dia and tapered up to thicker towards the center of the piston 1 degree,and 8 mm long, then make sure you have the piston on top dead center and check with a burrette gage, or a sureange gage and check to see the uncorrected volume, it should be @16 cc ,this is good for 93 octane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
23champ Posted September 16, 2004 Report Share Posted September 16, 2004 What about carb sync? Could this be a factor in the dead spot. I can't speak for eveyone but when I installed my carbs I had no access to a vacume gage, so I did it by sight and feel. I adjusted the screw and jam nut on top of the carb cap until I could feel both carbs hit bottom at the EXACT same time (which seemed good enough to me). The bike runs excellent everywhere throughout the powerband except right before 1/4 throttle. It even idles perfect (I also have my idle set really low. just enough to barely run). Its kind of a long shot (since just about everyone has the same problem as me) but I'm trying to come up with all possible solutions. I'm so tire of fuckin with it, I'm about to just give up and just say the hell with it and ride it like it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted September 16, 2004 Report Share Posted September 16, 2004 im in the process right now of changing a few things on my setup. ill let you know how it turns out. should be sometime this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted September 16, 2004 Report Share Posted September 16, 2004 What about carb sync? Could this be a factor in the dead spot. I can't speak for eveyone but when I installed my carbs I had no access to a vacume gage, so I did it by sight and feel. I adjusted the screw and jam nut on top of the carb cap until I could feel both carbs hit bottom at the EXACT same time (which seemed good enough to me). The bike runs excellent everywhere throughout the powerband except right before 1/4 throttle. It even idles perfect (I also have my idle set really low. just enough to barely run). Its kind of a long shot (since just about everyone has the same problem as me) but I'm trying to come up with all possible solutions. I'm so tire of fuckin with it, I'm about to just give up and just say the hell with it and ride it like it is. Try raising the needles? syncing does factor in, but the way you did it is the same way I suggest..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted September 16, 2004 Report Share Posted September 16, 2004 but the way you did it is the same way I suggest..... i used to have a old kawi tripple and i synced them like that, and my shee, that falling on its face momentarily aint carb sinc, when i put smaller than 50 pilots in my 34's my bike stuttered too, kinda fell off then snapped in, are 35's that much different than 34's?, my plugs are allways wet, but with a clean burn, my pro circuit pipes might be some what restricted, but it runs great real crisp and snappy it kinda stops pulling at the very edge of exploding, i dont know if thats my pipe or the nature of this engine, no ones really mentioned intakes, air path or reeds, i know when my single K&N is filthy shee chokes on accelleration and is a bitch to start, jims motor is an air/fuel whore thats for sure..... is everyone running race fuel? so proquad and I are the only one with a Passion motor thats running fine? .....there has to be a simple reason for this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebelbanshee2 Posted September 16, 2004 Report Share Posted September 16, 2004 mine runs fine. although it didnt until i went down on the pilots. it had a mid range sputter as all have descibed. i went down two sizes and voom! this is with 28mm FS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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