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anyone ever get antifreeze blown on there leg?


nickxc

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I have been getting cool antifreeze blown on my leg lately when Im pushing the revs pretty good and the last two times this has happened it was the head gasket. why am I going through head gaskets. I am torqueing the head nuts to specs, and I only have about 126 lbs of compression, nothing radical but I seem to be going through a head gasket every 15 tanks or so :shootself: what gives?????

 

any ideas appreciated!!

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Dude I know named Johan (Kenz mechanic) was out riding a customers bike and the hose popped off the water pump and dumped onto his foot (wearing a sneaker like a moron). They had to take him to the hospital cause his foot swelled up and couldn't get his shoe off. When I saw it 3 days later I thought I was gonna puke! So check those clamps!

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I was having this problem on mine when I first got it....only in 4th, 5th ,6th would coolant be coming out....and at that speed you cant tell where its coming from.....and when you stop its on your pipes, hoses, radiator, and boot.

 

I hate the stealer...so I wasnt going to take it there....so I replaced the hoses, clamps, and went so far as to replace the radiator and cap.

 

The problem I was having was the O-Ring under the WP cover. Replaced it and hasnt happened since.

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dumped onto his foot (wearing a sneaker like a moron). They had to take him to the hospital cause his foot swelled up and couldn't get his shoe off. When I saw it 3 days later I thought I was gonna puke! So check those clamps!

 

My problem is different, I just got back from the dunes and it is def coming out of my overflow. and its cool... my res bottle is still quite full but I wanna get it taken care of. Im pretty sure its the head gasket pressurizeing the system but why. I ordered a new head gasket from my stealer so when it gets here (prolly friday) ill pull my head and I should be able to tell if the old one was leaking but I dont wanna pull it till the new one gets here.

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The head could be slightly warped. Make sure you are using stock head gaskets. They are the best. Have you check the torque on the cylinder bolts at the bottom. They are also suppose to be at 20lbs. If they are the same, the tops of the cylinders can get a slight bit off or cause a little movement if not tight. Do you have the guide pins in? Just trying to think of everything.

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Yup, was thinking that mebbe the head surface might be warped or damaged.

 

On the old Zillas, the studs weren't enough to hold all the beast down and eventually would expand and blow head gasket after head gasket. might wanna check and see if the studs are all OK, and not tweaked..

 

if the head is slightly warped, you might be able to get it milled back to normal or just invest in a Noss head or Cool Head.

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whats the best way to check if its warped?? Im gunna take it off and look all over for chips or nicks and check the torque on my base bolts but im not sure if I have anything flat enough to tell if its warped... what are guide pins????

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whats the best way to check if its warped?? Im gunna take it off and look all over for chips or nicks and check the torque on my base bolts but im not sure if I have anything flat enough to tell if its warped... what are guide pins????

You should use something precision like a steel ruler. I have several at the shop, and they are not cheap for some. Others are okay in price but you get what you pay for. I also have a ground granite stone that I can check flatness on as well. hehe..the price on that was a bit more than the steel rulers. :shootself:

 

A guide pin would be a harnened ground steel pin that basically oreints something into posistion. I do believe the case halfs have some sort of guide pin to get things aligned.

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You never said what type of gaskets you were using when you are going through them so fast. Are they all factory type head gaskets ? Or are they aftermarket composition type gaskets? I have heard several people complain about the Cometic composition head gaskets and how they won't hold up. I just found out that is what is wrong with my bike. It was pissing coolant out of the overflow tube also. Motor wouln't even be at operating temp. I'm getting ready to regroup and go back to a factory type head gasket.

 

You might try getting your head cut just enuff to true the sealing suface, that is if you want to keep the same compression. Prolly somewhere around .005 - .010 should do it. Also, make sure that all of the old gasket material is cleaned off your jugs. Pull all your studs and lap the top of the cylinders on a suface plate( or a thick piece of glass) with a piece of crocus cloth on it.

 

When you know all of that is good, and it's time to button it back up, use Copper Coat(some people use aluminum spray paint) on both sides of the head gasket. Use anti-sieze compound on the threads of the studs and the nuts. Torque it down in two increments, and you should be ok.

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Sorry about confusing you on the guide pins/dowels. I was confused myself. They are used on the cylinders, not the head. Here's a pic. It's number 16. There aren't any on the head.http://216.37.204.202/yamaha_oem/YamahaATV...pe=13&A=115&B=4

 

My suggestion is just take it to a machine shop. I bet they'll check it for free.

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Damn CEJ, you beat me to the surface plate suggestion , I was in the process of responding when you posted that, not trying to repeat what you said dude.... 

 

thats nuthin I posted this entire post twice... Thats the 2nd time Ive done that. I must look like a tard. friggin dial up sucks!!!

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