nickxc Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 I warmed it up with the old plugs in and took it to a straight away, pulled them and put in new br7es (I had them laying around) started it and hit all 6 gears down the straight, held it in 6th for a few seconds and hit the kill. coasted to stop and pulled the br7's and put the old plugs back in and rode home. when I cut the br7's I found no ring around the base of the ceramic at all?? I thought I was rich but acording to this im lein. but I ride it all the time like hell in the top of 6th I would think it would have blown up by now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 I warmed it up with the old plugs in and took it to a straight away, pulled them and put in new br7es (I had them laying around) started it and hit all 6 gears down the straight, held it in 6th for a few seconds and hit the kill. coasted to stop and pulled the br7's and put the old plugs back in and rode home. when I cut the br7's I found no ring around the base of the ceramic at all?? I thought I was rich but acording to this im lein. but I ride it all the time like hell in the top of 6th I would think it would have blown up by now You need to use plugs that have been warmed up some. That plug had zero time to warm up properly and color properly. It's not an accurate reading by any means. I recommend riding for at least 15 minutes or so before you run a plug check, and I personally never use new plugs. I use old nasty plugs because they've been through some heat cycles and should color more properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickxc Posted July 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 wow I was told to do it differently. so If I just go get new plugs I can go ride on my old ones and get'er warmed up and hit wot for a couple seconds and pullem and cut em?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 wow I was told to do it differently. so If I just go get new plugs I can go ride on my old ones and get'er warmed up and hit wot for a couple seconds and pullem and cut em?? yep. i never change plugs for a plug check. in fact, once i'm pretty sure she's where she needs to be, i don't chop my plugs. i just look at the base ring and ground strap. say i go out riding and it's a little cool, or something's changed a little and I just want to check. I'll be riding for a few, 15 maybe 30 minutes. Then I'll cut out to somewhere I can hammer it down and then just do it. In 6th, I'll kill it, check the strap and base ring and I'll know exactly how it's running. Really no need to chop the plugs all the time, unless you just added some big mods and want to dial her in on the money. If your pretty sure she's good and just want to verify, the strap and base ring will tell you. Later and good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ranger Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 I had read that you are supposed to warm up on old plugs, change to new (using the same heat range plugs), then pin it in 6th for a few seconds. Kill the engine and pull in the clutch. I have a link to a place that describes it. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html I think I originally saw this link on this site. Check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickxc Posted July 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 Thanks sredish, I have done that and my base ring is black and has deposits on it that is why I thought I was rich but I will buy some new plugs and put them in my pocket and go riding on my wobblie axle and when I get a chance hit 6th cut it and pull the old plugs, put in the new ones and then when I get home cut the old ones. sounds like a plan thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickxc Posted July 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 I had read that you are supposed to warm up on old plugs, change to new I think I read it in benbb's banshee faq jetting sheat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 I had read that you are supposed to warm up on old plugs, change to new I think I read it in benbb's banshee faq jetting sheat. yep, in fact Ranger's link is Ben's site. Definitely warm up the plugs quite a bit before checking for color. If they're not up to temp, they will color incorrectly or not color at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickxc Posted July 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 but its ok to use old plugs???? I would rather cut old ones and leave the new ones in if I can... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.J. Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 but its ok to use old plugs???? I would rather cut old ones and leave the new ones in if I can... Nick, you could use the old plugs, try clean them up well and at least know what the base ring looks like before you put them in. IMO heating up the plug and heating up the bike are 2 diffrent issues. You should heat up the engine with a different set of plugs , as a lot of seperated 2-stroke oil that has collected on the crank will be thrown up and sucked into the cylinders, this will definately spoil your reading. As for heating up the plug, this should definately also be done, preferably with a bit of hard riding before you do the WOT test. The black ring you see at the base of the plug is caused by soot depositing at the COLDEST part of the plug, it is obvious that the base of the plug is the coolest as it is the closest to the cooled head and has the massive heat sink of all the metal around it. Once you have covered all of the ceramic with soot in the case of an old plug it will be more difficult to see the soot ring at the base of the plug. As for not seeing the ring at the base of the new plug, my guess is that your WOT test was too short. Where I live I can manage to hold her WOT for at least a minute and I have always been able to see the soot ring on a new plug after the test, provided you're in the ballpark with the main jet allready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRMit Posted July 29, 2004 Report Share Posted July 29, 2004 So ya'll are looking at the strap and the ring at the end of the threads where the strap is attached right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickxc Posted July 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2004 So ya'll are looking at the strap and the ring at the end of the threads where the strap is attached right No this is the base ring. we are talking about a colored ring around the base of the porcelin. You can only see it if you cut the threads of the plug to get to it. You can also judge jetting by the base ring(what you are talking about) but I dont think its as accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted July 30, 2004 Report Share Posted July 30, 2004 So ya'll are looking at the strap and the ring at the end of the threads where the strap is attached right? that's what i primarily use. if your carbs are jetted right, you'll get the proper color on the base ring and strap. plus the strap will give you your feedback on the heat range also. if i'm lost, or really need to get a grip on things, then i may chop them, but i can tell how she is by the base ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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