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Advise on Suspension upgrades


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Hey guys I am finally ready to do some suspension upgrades and was wondering if I can get some help. I have 95 Shee with an all stock suspension and its starting to hammer me down. I live about an hour from Glamis so I will be doing some dune riding but locally I love to hit up the dirt and mountain trails. I do not drag race at all. It does not appeal to me. When I do get a chance I would like to take my bike up to a course once I get it all dialed in. I hope thats enough background info.

 

A-arms what size ? Stock or bigger? Ive been looking at Quicksand Motorsports or the Lonestars

Axle what size? Stock or bigger? Looking at Durablue and Lonestar

Swingarm what length? Looking at Quicksand Motorsports and Lonestar

 

Thanks for all the help guys.

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If money is no option...I suggest the outlaw banshee chassis from lonestar or better yet Leager makes a killer banshee chassis..Get that $2,200 roughly and then a longtravel lobo II front ent at +3 wide $1,000 and a -1 leager swing arm w/ roundhouse carrier and a adjustable +1 - +3 axle on the read Lonestar axcaliber 340 bones and then top that package with a complet custom axis longtravel suspension kit with comp and rebound adjusters $1600..Not to forget all the odds and ends like honda spindles and all the little extras..Your probly going to burn an easy 8 grand or more.

 

Or just get a +2, +1 fwd Lonestar A-arm set for about 800 bones and a lonestar -1 swingarm for another 800. Plus 1600 for custom axis shocks. You'll be spending some cash.

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I seriously wish money was no object :P . So I should get +2 LSR Front Arms, -1 LSR swingarm and Custom Axis shocks? These are better than the Ohlins I assume? What about the rear axle? Do I leave it stock? I was planing on changing the whole thing out for a Durablue.

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first i would not buy anything from lsr except there axle they dont make stuff good i saw one of there brand new drag frames never used befor it was bare metal and you could see the tubing colapesed when they bent it thats a 4 thousand dollar chasis and its fucked up out of the box not what i would expect from one of the biggest companys in the industry also my friend who posts on here broke a set of there aarms wich put him in a full body cast :o lsr wouldnt even replace the aarms ;)

 

quicksand stuff on the other hand is high quality stuff they make sure theres not defects and evry thing is built properly they also back there stuff 100% which is rare in this sport give them a call they will help you decide what will work best for your riding type !!

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Carlos, I ride mostly at Glamis duneing not dragracing, and I run a +4" arm on my Banshee, I could not imagine runing a - length (shorter arm) in the sand, I'll catch some shit for this, but I'm just trying to give you another opinion. I too would stay away from lonestar, there are much better products out there at much better prices. If you want some great shocks at a great price call Todd @ TCS (909)245-7484, tell him what you are looking for and he'll get you set up for 1/2 the price of Axis or Ohlins.

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Dune don't be scared of the short swinger it's your friend. And I agree with Dune with TCS shocks. Todd's done both sets of my shocks. And I've aired it real hard without even close to bottoming out. And I've never once had a single problem with any LSR products. But there customer service does suck ass.

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if your gonna be ridin trails i wouldnt go any more than +2 on the a arms

Boy aint that the truth. I had +2's with the rims flipped. That was a little rough in the woods. I put the rims back to stock.

 

I use ricky stator a-arms. For $500 you can't beat them. They have REAL ball joints to. Not the Faddish heim joints. I just don't like heim joints like most people do. They seem to have to many problems.

 

As far as shocks, the individual that sets them up will make all the difference in the world. Valving, spring size, oil weight, it all makes a difference.

 

It boils down to how much your budget it.

 

Lonestar does make a good axle.

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Dune don't be scared of the short swinger it's your friend.

well doesnt that depend on what type of riding you do. for sand you go longer to keep the frontend down when traction is unquestionable with paddles. and from what i understand you go shorter for track cause it tightens the turning radius and somehow gets more power to the ground. anybody correct me if im wrong

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Carlos, I have a older banshee that in 1998 I put a complete set of off the shelf Ohlins on the front and back, The fronts were preload only and the rear is fully adjustable. Even though they are off the shelf today they are till working great. The fronts are good very forgiving and woudl be even better if they had full compression and rebound adjustment. The rear is incredible, it soaks up the whoops incredebly and am very happy with the way the bike performs.

 

With that said, a few months ago I started shopping for suspension for my future banshee. I looked at Ohlins, Elka and Axis. Since Axis fronts do not have full adjustment (for the banshee) I weeded them out. To me who trail rides, fire road riding, dune rides and occasionally MX I wanted FULL adjustable shocks that are easy to tune. The Elkas I like becasue they have 3 things, The SSD (Self Sag), 5/8 in shafts and variuos spring combos. I know the Fulll adjustable Ohlins are about $1100 for fronts and I think around $650 for the rear. Elka's I think are a bit more for the rear but cheaper in front. Now I would not pay that, negotiate or go elsewhere is the best. When I bought my ohlins I saved about $400.00. I have nothing but great things to say about ohlins and will more likely be on my next shee.

 

As most of the guys here mentioned buy a shock that is set up for you, I would also throw fully adjustable on that since you do not MX. To me those are the most important things.

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Yax
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WOW this has to be one of the most responsive web boards out there! Thank you all for the advice given. Im still unclear as to what to get though. Now I understand it will all come down to preference but can anyone give some pros or cons? I am pretty set on getting Ohlins front and rears and the Scotts Performance steering damper I just want to make sure I do the rest of the suspension right. So everyone seems to be in agreement I should get +2 width/+1 forward A-arms right? I never thought about this until now but once you get longer a arms do you have to replace the tie rods? Now the axle I do plan on replacing but no one has yet to say good or bad things about Durablue. Also would stock length be sufficent or should I go longer? With that in mind should I go -1 on the swingarm, leave it stock or go longer? Thanks for all the help guys.

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