sredish Posted June 20, 2004 Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 Well, 110 isn't the greatest, but it should fire and start up. Have you checked the slides? Does she have spark with the plugs out of the cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdcoxwell Posted June 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 Yea Scott, shee has spark, nice blue spark . Rookie question, what exactly are you calling slides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meat Posted June 20, 2004 Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 "slides" as in carburetor slides. They're the part in the carb that raises and lowers as you work the throttle. 110psi is low, but it should still start. Is the carb choke tube in place, its the little 3 inch long hose that connects the carbs together(im not talking about the large "balance tube on the intake boots). Go buy two new spark plugs, NGK b8es and make sure the gap is between .028 and .031 Air filter perfectly clean ? clean it up... and oil it too. Fuel filter in good flowin' condition ? Pull your gas line off one of the carbs and turn on the fuel..... have a can ready to catch the gas. You must decide if its an "ignition problem" or a "gas\intake problem". Once you buy two new plugs and your sure they're gapped(don't trust the pre-gapped statement) correctly, and your 100% sure the plugs are sparking bright blue sparks, then you have elimintated the electrical system, and can concentrate on troubleshooting the carbs. If you have some spare reed cage gaskets, pull your reed cages out and check the reeds for any damage. Reeds will prolly be fine, but atleast you can say they have been checked and eliminate them as a possible cause. Please list your mods and jetting specs. Why did you change your mix ratio ? Ben could be onto something here.... hot weather + a richer mix can foul out a plug quicker than shit. Pull those carbs and go over em really good. Air screws should be set the same amount of turns. 1-1\2 turns out from seated is a good starting point and actually the ideal setting for the air screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdcoxwell Posted June 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 Checked the slides and they are not stuck. Choke tube is connected to both carbs. New set of plugs are installed. Gap is correct. Steady flow of fuel running threw hose. Mods are: Lightened flywheel K&N airfilter w/stock box +4 degree timing from R.Stat. I changed fuel mixture because alot of members stated that you should only run 24:1 for break in and that ratio would cause carbon build up. So, I changed it to 32:1(4oz-1gal) This is what took place. Banshee sat up for a long time(12yrs, long story), 87' model but only has about 40 hrs of usage. Bought a clymer and found the problem and fixed it, stator. Cleaned carbs and oil case. Over the yrs lost some parts such as the airbox lid and filter. Put new stator on and she cranked on the first kick after sitting up for so long. Running without filter and lid. Never road her longer than 5 min. due to no filter or box lid. Did not ride on dirt or dusty roads. Ordered k&n filter and airbox lid, installed'em. She started running as if the choke was pulled out, and it wasn't, and smoking more than usual. So I figured shee wasn't getting enough air since the only thing that I did different was add the lid. Oh yea, shee ran fine w/just the filter, lid came later. Took lid off to see if that is why shee was running too rich. Cranked her, ran fine, as I was putting her up she starting reving up a little more than usual. As I stated before, if WOT is a 10 and 1 is idle, shee was sitting still w/an idle of around 3. It wasn't so high that it would make too concerned but enough to make wonder why it idled a little higher than normal. Went to crank her and she didn't seem to have as much compression. With the new spark plugs installed, should they show signs of gas and oil on them, because they are not showing much of anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geaux 4 it Posted June 20, 2004 Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 You might have an air leak,if its idling higher than normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdcoxwell Posted June 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 Are there common place for air-leaks . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hockey390 Posted June 20, 2004 Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 I'm not saying this HAS to be the problem... But what I am saying is that it was mine. 115-120 PSI, no fire.. rebuilt top end.. now I have 160 and it started 2nd kick. Did you take your pipes off and empty them yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdcoxwell Posted June 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 Hock, No I haven't but I'm going to do that now. I've never taken'em off before so it might take awile. Also, what exactly does this help, I'm sure it can't be good for anything and how often should I pull'em and drain. Can I take the head off without having to drain the coolant and do I need to pull'em off to take a look at the head gasket Before this happened shee would crank on the first kick Thx hock, Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdcoxwell Posted June 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 Oh yea, is the first thing one should check is the head gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hockey390 Posted June 20, 2004 Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 the reason i say take them off... if youve been kicking and kicking and its not started...they will be full of gas. if you remove the head you have to drain MOST of the coolant. Whenever I remove the head if its been on there and tightened down i think you have to replace the gasket.. but dont quote me.. remove that only if youve narrowed it down and cant figure it out.. I am going to stop telling you what might be wrong though, because im no pro.. Just keep what I said in mind, my shee wouldnt start with 115 PSI. I went up to the next bore, and now shee is runnin like the champ she is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdcoxwell Posted June 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 Hockey don't worry about that. I need all the help I can get. The main agenda for me is to fix what is wrong and not take apart several things that isn't wrong in hoping that it is broken. I appreciate everything you've suggested to me. I know now that I def. need to empty my pipes and before, I never would have thought twice about'em Thx, Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 CDCoxwell,sounds like a couple things need to be checked out. (sorry I wasn't here earlier, I have been busy this weekend.... ANyways, the pipes being loaded up was an initial thought that came to mind, being that you said you have spark. Now, 110 is a little low, but not bad. You should run strong with a # like that. Should being the operative word there... Now, you may have a leaky crank seal, which would explain your high idle problem.... First thigs I would do here, is double scheck the spark. Next, pull the pipes off andsee if there is fuel in them. Drain them.... Next, pull the carbs, and clean the jets and the needle valves. You need to pull the bowl off and take the jets out of the carb in order to clean them. The pilots require a small flathead screwdriver to remove them. They are deep in a recessed area of the carb... After you have spark, a dry exhaust, compression, and clean carbs, give it a whirl... Hopefully you if it fires up. If not, we have ot go further. While you have the carbs off, check the reeds too...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J..J. Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 (edited) While you have the carbs off, check the reeds too...... While the carbs are off, inspect all the rubber boots for signs of perishing, especially around the base of the cross-over tube. This can well be expected from a bike this age. Idling high like that at idle sounds like an airleak to me... Edited June 21, 2004 by J..J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hockey390 Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 hurray for boonman ! Have a bucket ready when you empty your pipes.. Mine had about 1/2 gallon in each. You were talking about removing the head... dont do that until youve narrowed it down to something in there.. Otherwise your wasting time, and money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdcoxwell Posted June 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 I didn't get to remove the pipes yesterday because of the Father's day thing, but I get off of work today at 2:00 and going to remove the pipes then. Like I said before, I had no idea this could take place w/the pipes, Could you please explain how this could hender the shee from cranking. I'm just trying to better understand the mechanics of it. Thx Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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