Jump to content

Shee Wont Start!


Recommended Posts

yes.......

 

Keep this in mind..

 

It ran FINE with everything it has on it now.. NOTHING has changed.. it ran good, it ran strong.. started 2nd kick.

 

The only difference is it started monday, tuesday it wouldnt. now its the next week and i still havnet figured it out.. All i know is that i have spark, fuel, and my compression is 100-110 on both

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Alright. Your compression is low. Your bike should still run, but it doesn't. You NEED a rebuild. DO NOT sidestep this FACT. :unsure: I have heard of of Stators being faulty and not providing a strong enough power to produce a good enough spark. As a matter of fact, LedOfTheZep I think had this problem.... Check the stator, and make sure it is within spec. I don't remember the correct resistance numbers on it, but the Clymer manual goes into detail on this. If you don't have a clymer maual, get one.......... It is invaluable. Don't sell the bike, or part it out or whatever. I understand you are frustrated, but this is a simple fix. In the end, you will be like :cry: Why in the hell didn't I do that earlier??? Your comppression is low, so you need to re-do the topend. You need to check the stator..... Check to be sure the timing is on.... idn't you just get a lightened flywheel from me and a shaved head??? Being that you have the shaved head and you are STILL that low, you have a problem.... SOmething you aren't telling here.. Did this problem come after you put the head and flywheel back on??? :whoa:

 

EDIT:

 

I just remembered you said it ran one day, and didn't the next. This sounds like a stator. Or a CDI. Or, timing key..... What you think is a strong spark, and what the motor sees as a strong spark may be two different things. SOmething is not right here. All the advice in the world ain't gonna help you if you don't take any of it and act it out... You need a new top end. DOn't know how much I an stress that. ???? You're using a junk compression tester. Rubber push in testers are not good...... :bolt: Check the things I mentioned in my last post. You need a perfectly timed GOOD spark, compression, and fuel...... How are your reeds?

Edited by boonman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was very happy with both of those.. I put them on, ran fine.. Got a TORS removal kit, did that.. Started 2nd kick after I did that mod. the NEXT DAY (key factor) it wouldnt start... Since then I've installed a Trinity 2 into 1 carb setup, with the 35 mm carb.

 

today I am taking her to a mechanic to let me know exactly what is wrong, and exactly what I need to do to fix her. When I say sell her, I dont mean I'm getting out of Banshee's, I love them too much to quit. I will be purchasing a 2000 or up, probably stock, and swap out my after market parts.

 

Chances are I will get it fixed, but shee is an 87. When I first got it and started thinking of "modding" I told myself I didnt want to teach an old dog new tricks. Unfortunatly I didnt have the money to spend on a newer one, so I just said screw it and went on.. Now $2,000 later, shee isnt doing well, and I think it wouldnt be smart to keep throwing money into it. I dont make enough money to do that, I will just take a loan and buy a 2000 or up, and be able to ride.

 

Keep in mind, I want reliable.... If I can only ride every other weekend, when that weekend comes, I NEED to have a shee that will start, no prob.

 

***EDIT***

I am in no way saying Id ont need the rebuild. It will happen.. What i'm trying to do is get a quick fix so I can ride this weekend... Then after this weekend she is gonna get the work. BUT, after the work, im parting out (unless i decide otherwise)

A strong running engine will get me more money then a broken one.. SO, either way, selling or not, I am doing the work, but I want to ride this weekend.. And doing the top end rebuild isnt ideal for the timeline im on.

 

I'm sure you all understand that.. Whok nows, maybe I can get new rings and be done with it, then rebuild it next week. Key factor here is I want to ride this weekend.. Plain and simple.

Edited by Hockey390
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what I'd do. It ran fine before the switch to the Trinity carb. Remove the trinity carb and put the originals back on with the same adjustments and jets as when it ran. Attempt to start it. If it starts then you know that the trinity carb setup is the culpret. Also, if you can pull start the bike but not kick start it, your topend has to be rebuilt. It's probably due since it is an 87 and if you are not the orignal owner you won't know if it has had the top end redone ever and if it hasn't it's definitely due because of it's age. All the advice that has been given is appropriate and it is up to you to decide to listen or ignore it. It would be a shame to see the bike get parted out, but then that is up to you to decide.

 

Wheatchex

 

FYI for everyone: Buying a used bike for less money upfront may not always be the best investment in the long run as you will most likely end up spending more to fix things than you would have if you had ponied up bought a newer/less abused bike in the first place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm still confused as to why everyone posts these comments before clearly reading what has been writen.

 

Listen one last time.

this is the steps... this will be as CLEAR as can be... (keep in mind the order, that is important)

 

87 banshee.

Ran, but lost spark sometimes, caused by TORS.

Installed TORS removal kit on STOCK carbs. (also removed all TORS related items)

Started on 2nd kick (MONDAY 5/11)

Wouldnt start. Had spark, and fuel. (TUESDAY 5/12)

Ordered Trinty carb setup.

Installed trinty carb steup.

Wont start. It has spark (not sure if its timed right) Fuel, and exhaust.

Checked compression with a cheap gauge, got 110 on each.

TODAY Taking to mechanic at 3:00 PM, I will then find out what it NEEDS to run.

FRIDAY Going up north for wedding, (want to) ride on Saturday & Sunday.

NEXT WEEK Going to rebuild top end with everything it needs. EX. Pistons, bore it 20 over, new seals.. The works.

 

Please no more posts telling me to remove the carbs, or telling me to act on it instead of just listen... I'm not trying to be an ass, but I do get annoyed when someone mentions something ive already done, and then I tell everyone I've done it, and then the same thing gets repeated.. Hopefully this will clear any questions up, because people tend to read the last post then reply.. Please read the whole thread before posting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please no more posts telling me to remove the carbs, or telling me to act on it instead of just listen... I'm not trying to be an ass, but I do get annoyed when someone mentions something ive already done, and then I tell everyone I've done it, and then the same thing gets repeated.. Hopefully this will clear any questions up, because people tend to read the last post then reply.. Please read the whole thread before posting.

This isnt how you get people to help you out buddy. The way you solve problems is by thinking of everything that can be a problem even what you think it cannot be. Not taking peoples advice and telling them you are getting pissed at excessive advice will get you no where. I was in the same boat as you were when I was your age. I got a Banshee that was a POS when I was 16, it ran for a couple months then everything went wrong with it at once. I didnt have enough money to fix everthing, so instead of being impatiant i let the thing sit for over a year while i saved money and read every single bit of information about quads on the web i could find so I could rebuild it right. After i graduated I got a job for a year, and then I was able to rebuild the entire machine into a harbinger of fury. So I reccomend taking a few deap breaths, accept that you cant ride this weekend and slowly and smartly go over the bike to find the problem so you dont waste money on things that arnt problems.

 

So that said...

You have had someone offer you a CDI to test, try that. Get a real compression tester, try that. Did you try to push start it, you can spin the engine alot fast pushing or pulling it than kicking it? Did you use a new gasket when you put the shaved head on, the head gasket could be blown? Have you tried new plugs? Gas is in the line, but is it in the float bowl? Is the pilot clogged? Sorry to offend you if you have already tried these

Edited by rebelbanshee2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

its not when people post things i havent tried, its when people start saying try removing the tors, or when someone says "it ran fine before you did this, so remove it" when if they read starting from the beginning of the post, it will say many times the TORS are gone, and that it ran one day and quit the next.

 

I wouldnt like to be an ass to anyone on here. I have gained more then I could ever imagine from this site. But sometimes people post stuff that has already been done, or couldnt have been done, and this they could of known by reading instead of posting.

 

as for the offer on testing a new CDI, the mechanic (not saying he is right) said if I have spark, the CDI is good. I wanted to see if there was any way to quick fix it because this weekend I really wanted to ride. that is behind me now, and I'm ripping the top end off tonight, and having it bored tomarrow. They of course wanted to charge $400 labor, and $275 for pistons and rings.. $80 for the bore, so i said ya....ok... and took it home, saved the 400 labor, and will order the proper pistons tomarrow after they measure it to see what size I need.

 

Sorry for getting grouchy, just a bad week. But please read a little before you post.. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

and also, any tips for removing the jugs? I've never done it before... Kinda scared!

In fact, I have no idea how... Probably thinking take off the head, and do they just pull up??? Who knows... not I :wacko:

 

 

One last thing, what color should I paint them =)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

taking the top end off is quite easy. you know how to ake off the head already. for the cylenders just take off the carbs and bikes, drain the whole coolant system. undo the 4 nuts and pull up. Taking the gas tank and plastics off makes thing easier. sometimesa light tap on the exaust port with a RUBBER mallet breaks em loose. then pull em off. tip em upside down to drain the rest of the coolant

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never seen the 4 nutts, I will probably know what they are as soon as I remove the head, but where are they located? Top, sides, bottom..?

 

As far as what you just said, I'm assuming you meant pipes when you said bikes, but confirm that in case there is another piece I have to remove..

 

***EDIT***

 

Are the Wiseco piston kits on ebay any good? I dont want to buy some refurbished shit, or get them and not have something good... I believe it was boonman that mentioned something about seals or gaskets... What do I need to make sure I get with it? here is a link of one that is 20 over, I dont know if thats what I'm going to (gotta check what its at now) but pretend it is, is this right??

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...7902637716&rd=1

 

***EDIT AGAIN***

Also do I want to go .010 over what I have.. or go up .020 ??

Edited by Hockey390
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...