luv2ride13 Posted May 15, 2004 Report Share Posted May 15, 2004 Hey got a question. I have to get a new crank and my buddy says he will sell me a Long Rod +4mm Crank and spacer plate for 350 is it worth it or just stay stock. He also says I have to get longer studs. I just ordered a Cool Head that will be in on thursday and some .75 pistons. Now what do I have to do to run that longer crank. Is it worth it and what will it do. I got 21cc domes for the cool head since getting race fuel up here in alaska is kind of a bitch I thought I would stay semi-low. Needs some help and looking for advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducman Posted May 16, 2004 Report Share Posted May 16, 2004 Well the stroker crank is usually used with porting that complements it. The stoker crank will add a lot more low end and compensate for a port job that is made for more top end so you get loads more power from bottom to top. A new plate and crank goes for about $500 - shortysracing.com. The spacing of the stroker plate + the pistons you use + the added strolke is critical. I'm not anywhere near expert on this, but I believe you usually pick the thickness of the stroker plate you want last based on the added stroke length, longer rod length, and pistons (either standard or 795series), so you would want to make sure your set up is the same that his was to use the plate. As for the longer studs, they are just needed for the cool head because it us thicker, it doesn't have the recesses like the stock head or some other aftermarket heads like the new Noss Head. 21cc domes will be fine on pump gas and the stoker crank wont change the compression ratio. PM PassionRE for some expert stroker crank motor advise and/or service. He is a builder that has done some sweet stroker motors for several HQers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasty01banshee Posted May 16, 2004 Report Share Posted May 16, 2004 see my post on my stroker crank install, just finished breaking in the motor and without the port work to match the transfers on the stroker combo you won't get nearly the benifits it could give you, you will also need stroker pistons, as the transfers are quite different on them, wiseco 795 series. i almost pissed my pants when i laid into it, mad fast !!!!! stroker crank install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepman380 Posted May 17, 2004 Report Share Posted May 17, 2004 The stroker crank is definatly worth it. But you do have to get it ported for it to work properly. I would recommend using the 795 series pistons and a spacer gasket. When it's all done it has tons of power and really fast, even though I only got to ride on my new stroker motor for like 10 minutes before the CDI blew (talk about that in another post). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luv2ride13 Posted May 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2004 I put the crank in, hopefully it goes well. Now to use the spacer plate I need to replace the block studs. No how do I get them out, I got most of them out with adjustable pliers. BUT i can't get the 2 front ones out, the close together ones. Please give me some assistants Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XTShee Posted May 18, 2004 Report Share Posted May 18, 2004 What size plate are you using? anr you sure its the correct one? I am running a +4 crank and even with the plate and a gasket either side I can still use the stock studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepman380 Posted May 18, 2004 Report Share Posted May 18, 2004 I have a +4mm stroker and i'm using the stock studs also. I even have washers between the head and head bolts and they still fit fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasty01banshee Posted May 18, 2004 Report Share Posted May 18, 2004 I put the crank in, hopefully it goes well. Now to use the spacer plate I need to replace the block studs. No how do I get them out, I got most of them out with adjustable pliers. BUT i can't get the 2 front ones out, the close together ones. Please give me some assistants are you sure you got the plate for top-end and not bottom-end ???? the top-end plate goes under the cylinders and the bottom-end plate goes under the cylinder head. i'm also using stock studs with no modifications .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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