Temperature Difference

[jsekula]

Your probes should me more like 7" to 9" from the piston (exhaust side of course) if your 2 into 1 pipes will allow. Your readings will register too low since a lot of unburned gases will be recipricating back and forth that close to the exhaust opening. That won't give you the difference between the two like that though. Try re-checking the grounds for the probes, and if you have the same connectors in the back of the instrument as I do, rotate them a little back and forth to make a good connection. If that doesn't do the trick, switch the two probes (at the instrument first) to see if the gauge is reading incorrectly. If the difference stays on the same probe, switch the probes to the other sides and see what happens. I've used these on my sled and now on my banshee, and have learned a wealth of info from these, especially w/the speed sensor! Awesome gauges! Let me know how you make out. You could actually be scavaging more on one side. Check your reed petals also. ps- how do you move the digatron charts to your posts like that?

Yeah, I think your right, except I cannot get 7 to 9 inches from the piston. I check with a noncontact temperature gun and right the Y was the hotest. Ofcourse, the pipe heats up faster there since the exhaust combines. I figure on doing jetting by the plugs of course and then compare it against the exhaust temps; that will be the safest way to go. I scanned the graph after I printed it out... Thanks, Joe

By the way, where did you place your speed sensor?

[Holyman]

What ar ethe actual temps you are getting with the diff methods of measuring the temps.

If you have a way of measuring temps externally, I would make marks every inch along the pipe and record the temp. I can't imagine a 40% spread in temp being anywhere near "normal".

I'm really interested to hear the temps you have recorded and where the reading was taken.

[Banchetta]

Try to get some temps off the cylinders. I know the coolant will affect it some, but you should still see a difference if there is one.

[snowprophet1]

I drilled a hole through my swingarm in a nice spot, where it will pick up all of the 6 bolts that hold the rear sprocket on. The digatron sensor needs something metal to trigger it, not a magnet. Right after I mounted it and tested it, I could see the difference on the charts between wheel spin and slight clutch slippage, etc. I thought how cool it was, and then I realized, if I adjust my chain tension to it's max, the sensor might not line up enough for the bolts to trigger the sensor! Just when you think something through and do a nice job and everything works, you find something you didn't consider! I'll be messing w/my gears again sooner or later for drags, but for right now, its real useful having that speed sensor. I got a remote button to reset for laps, so when I chart out an asphalt run, I can start the chart where the wheel first starts to move, and I can put plots on the graph and hit a button and it will tell me my 60', 300', 660', or whatever I want to see all in one run! Very useful info when trying different gearing, carbs/jetting, timing, etc. Oh, by the way, I sort of figured your temp sensors were as far as you could get them already. I ran a set on a sled that had a Y pipe, and you just get them as far as you can, and figure on the sensors reading a little off. My sled had dual carbs though, so I could tune out some variences. Even on my triple/triple sled, there are spots on the egts that always vary a little. At any given throttle position, there will be a varience between all the cylinders. There has never been one cylinder that ran richer or leaner through all the throttle range. All 3 cylinders have there turn in being the hottest on the way up to full throttle. In your case though, that is a big difference. I might get 25-30*F difference between the probes, maybe a little more at times.