Jump to content

What Mods Next.


Recommended Posts

Whith my mods at the bottom what should I get next. I ride a lotta open trails. I was thinking v force reeds, or may be a noss head with 20cc domes. But I already have a shaved head so dont know if it would be worth it right now. And dont tell me suspension I know I need it but we want speed here!! :D

 

Who knows may be a sticker kit. ;) there a few HP's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Because I need to ride. I'm not about to wait a month or what ever to get it apart and worked on then put back together. I have a hard enough time waiting till the weekend. Plus I dont have loads of cash for all that right now.

 

I should of expected this type of response. :shootself:

Edited by 2004LEBanshee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know you asked Jason, but I have Works triples, and I love them. Best bang for the buck. When it comes to suspension, get the best you can affford...... ;) I ave works now, and I will for a long time. I don't race anymore. I don't need anythign better.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dude do you just want people to list a bunch of bolt on gimmicks just so you can say you have them even if it adds no HP's.

 

Go big or stay home...if you want speed crack them cases & get to gettin.

 

Bore & Port with a stronger crank that will set you up for a lot of goodies later.

 

Get the head mine was cut .020 & 140PSI & I put on a Noss with 20CC now I am at 165 Psi but I also have a Hot Rod crank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Works triples...they are the best bang for the buck like Boony said. I love them and are a HUGE difference over stock...I might get some Axis this summer though..I'm getting too crazy for the works....Downhill jumping at 60' and bottoming out really sucks....especially when you blow the front tire.. :o As for mods. If you plan on getting porting or stroker work done. Plan on another $700-900 for intake mods....It won't be the porting or stroker that'll cost you. Its the intake mods that the other mods need to go w/ it....Trust me. :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was really looking into the elka's, How do they compair to the works triples. I rode a 450 with the elkas on it. It felt great but it was a 450. I've never had the chance to ride a bike with works triples. I was also planing on getting them with out ressies for now and getting them later when I get more cash I mean 7-8 hundred is a load, should I just wait till I can buy ressies too or ride ressie less. Either way gotta be better then this stock shit.

 

So if down the road I get a stroker and a port job which I will. I should need close to 2,000?

Edited by 2004LEBanshee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One other that will work great with porting and be ok with stock porting is Some 28mm flat slide carbs Open the top up alittle and help throttle responce out alot by losing the Rs stock carbs. And when you port :) More still.

If you watch ebay There is a guy who sell a set of Mikunis 28mm Tm's for 189.00

We installed a set on my sons 2003 with CPI's and It was worth it.:)

 

Just food for thought.

L8R

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only reason why the Elkas are so expensive is because they are full adjustable..You can buy the non adjustable fronts for like $450...You can still adjust the spring, you just can't adjust the compression and rebound...

Stroker cost...........

Crank...........$500

Porting..........$500

Carbs............$300

Intake...........$200

Reed cages....$200

Rebuild..........$300

 

 

Total.............$2000, YOUR GOOD!!!! $1500 if you stay w/ the stock crank, then you have to weld and true it for anther $75-100...When you get done though, it'll take quite a while to get used to the power...HUGE gains!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where do you get them at for $450. I've just been looking ebay. And would those be as good as works that are fully adjusted? I don't race, just mess around in trails and jumps but I may race a couple mx races if I get shocks but I gotta get a lot better at keeping the front end level in the air. I tend to go up or nose dive. This thing is deffenetly not the easyest to jump at least for me. I gotta practice more. Hell I have a friend who finishes top 3 with a stock shee suspenion in occasional races. So I know it can jump if done right I just dont. ;)

 

Thanks for the opinions guys.

 

OH one more question kinda off target. I'm going to dirt week at hatfield and MCcoy and they have a 300ft dirt drag. I'm going to enter in it and was wondering if it makes a difference how I should set the compression on my rear shock for a better launch, if it matters. Hard or soft??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...