BansheeBrian Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 I will be riding Sunday if all goes well.Whats the right way to brake in a new top end? Should I go by the clymers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frocashmoney24 Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 ride it at a quarter throttle for a while, then half then 3'4 then wot, and just ride it like you normally would, jnust stay away from what for a long time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ranshee Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 Go to duncans site, real good procedure. I think its in faqs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducman Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 You need to ride it for about 10 - 15 min and go real easy on it, but get good and warm, all the way to a regular operating temp, then let it cool all the way down, do this again 1 or 2 more more times. Put the rings through a couple of heat cycles to get them to set. Then run about 1 full tank through it before you really hammer it and abuse it at WOT. I put in about 1 galon of gas at about 24:1 for the first 2 rides then add a couple galons of 40:1 so you end up with about 32:1 to 36:1 for the first tank, then keep using 40:1 (depends on what oil you use of coarse) With the stock head, check the head bolt torque after the 1rst ride or after it idels and warms up once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 Woa Woa Woa!!!!!!!! If it is a brand new top end, you NEED to heat cycle it first. Works like this. Fire it up, (I always run whatever fuel I will be running in it when it is all done) and let it IDLE. Maybe a couple blips to take it to like 3,000 RPM or so, but nothing more. Let it get good and hot. About 5-10 minutes. Shut it off. Check the plugs. Make sure they aren't going to foul. Let it comletely cool down. Fire it up again. Let it idle untill it's hot. Shut it off. You need to do 3 heat cycles. Then, ride it easy for the first tank, and slowly get back into it. This is for long life motors. If you race, heat cycle it, and then go rip the crap out of it. I don't think there is much difference. But the heat cycles is what is important IMHO. The way metal expands and contracts, it is necessary to set everything up proper. I have never had a problem with this method..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotts96fast Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 I also agree heat cycles are a must for the first 3 times the machine is fired up.Make sure the motor is totally cooled down...never stay at the same RPM's when riding.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBrian Posted April 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2004 I just spent 6 hours working on my shee.I found some money and replaced the crank and am now breaking in the top end with heat cycles. Thanks for the replies for the break in procedure.I will do everything possible to make sure this engine lasts.I will be reading this as i do the break in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99LRDblaster Posted April 4, 2004 Report Share Posted April 4, 2004 heres what i go by. 1:for break in go through first tank of gas with a semi synthetic or petro based oil such as golden spectro. 2:after top end is installed rejet HEAVY to insure there is no leanness. 3:start bike up and let it idle and and give it just a TOUCH of gas/check plugs 4:repeat cycle at least 3-4 more times gettinga big more aggressive however not so much as to rev it all the way out. this keeps the rings from wearing in at a certain point. varying the rpm is key in break in so the rings seat properly. 5:now go for a ride but dont go past 1/4 throttle but kepp going up and donw on the gas. 6:repeat but at 1/2 throttle 7:repeat at 3/4 throttle 8:ride as you normally would but dont run it real hard just semi aggressively. 9:check compression with tester to insure rings are seated. 10:rejet if need be. in between all of these runs let the engine return to STONE COLD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBrian Posted April 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2004 Woah! I can even feel the increased compression just by kicking it over.It started in 4 kicks.I'm on the second heat cycle and I just noticed that I'm getting an intermittent spark on it.This has to be resolved before I follow through with break in.The plug was gapped and changed and it's still occuring.This is troublesome . The left is running strong and fires perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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