nater006 Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 New trans is arriving for my shee next week (bad 2nd gear in the current). Looking to put it in quickly and relatively easily. Here's what I have... if someone can tell me if I'm missing anything or has any tips/tricks or quick ways of stuff, let me know! Gonna flip the engine upside down and just pull the lower case half to avoid taking apart my fairly new top end. From the looks of the manual, only special tools needed are a flywheel puller and perhaps a clutch holder (probably not needed). Looks like after removing the clutch/kicker/stator/flywheel/etc stuff, the case splits right apart with a rubber mallet. Appears that old gear clusters should pop right out (w/ rubber mallet) and new trans stuff should drop right in. Got a complete new set of lower end seals ((2) main seals, kicker seal, water pump, shifter seal, clutch arm, and one other). Is there any trick to installing those? The manual mentions a light lithium grease (like white lithium) for assembly which is no problem. Any other tricks with installing seals that should be known, however? Hoping to just pull the old gear clusters out, put the new ones in, and possibly shift forks if they're bent. Then, put it right back together any other tips/tricks? this is my first time attempting this and it had me a little nervous...hehe. And you folks are so helpful... figure that someone's done this a few times and might have additional stuff that the manual doesn't. Thanks for any info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebelbanshee2 Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 theres alittle half moon clip thing behind the clutch that is easy to forget to take off. the cases wont come apart with it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater006 Posted April 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 Gotcha -- I remember reading a post (searched extensively) about someone with that same problem. Two bolts through it if I remember right -- I noticed it in the manual, also. Thanks for the heads up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater006 Posted April 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 Ummmm... another question that just came up. Since I'm flipping this on the head and just pulling the lower case half (e.g., not taking the upper end apart) are there any tricks to either 1) getting it apart, or 2) getting it back together? The crank seal installation and the shift forks would be my only concerns. Since the upper end isn't coming apart I was planning to carefully set everything into the lower case half (two gear clusters, shift drum, forks, etc) and then basically drop the top half back on top. Any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmaxup Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 Sound like a bitch. You have to make shure everything is sitting in the bottom end all nice and pretty. When everything is sitting right the gears should spin freely. Then use Yamabond. You will have to set the top end on to the lower. Otherwise the gears will fall out. You must split it faceing upright. You have half clips on the bearing groves that half to sit in the lower case correctly. your forks must mesh correctly when its open. Your forks are in the lower case and the gear clusters sit on top of them. If you try to just put the lower case back on upsidedown your gear will not mesh with forks and you have no way of telling if you got it. I would split it up right you can remove the bolts then flip it upright. open it up nothing will fall out. just make shure your crank stays with the upper half of the case with the cylinders. Then fix your problem in the lower end . Yamabond then set the upper half down on top of the lowerhalf upright. Then flip it over and put your bolts in. Are confused yet I am. I dont know Im worried. Just because I usally go through the whole thing right side up. How do you know your tranny is bad if you havent taken it apart yet.? Just thought I would ask? Maybe its something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater006 Posted April 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2004 2nd gear has a rhythmic clunk. It doesn't sound good and you can feel it in the handlebars, etc when on a smooth surface. It is *only* in 2nd. Clutch checked out fine. From what I figured.. it sounded like a screwed 2nd gear set or similar. No idea what is up with it though. Hence the case cracking... I've checked everything else. The clunking speeds up and slows down with the speed in 2nd. Its 2nd, 2nd only, and no other. 1 3 4 5 and 6 are all wonderful. No weird noises. Just pure glorious fun! I understand what you're saying about the gears and forks meshing correctly. That makes plenty of sense. I actually thought about it after posting and realized that it would probably be easiest (and probably the only way! hehe) to lay everything back out in the lower case and then lower the top half back onto it. Noticed the half c-clips in the manual also and that too crossed my mind. Already had devised a way to make sure the crank stays with the upper half (just a tie-down strap w/ 2 rubber hooks, *CAREFULLY* tied over the head and each hook holding up an end of the crankshaft but not putting much pressure on it). Thanks for the advice.. it is greatly appreciated. Got the flywheel/stator assembly off after work. Don't have an impact wrench unfortunately so had to settle for a Craftsman strap wrench (carefully) and elbow grease to remove the flywheel. Will pull everything else over the weekend except for cracking the cases. Parts should arrive Monday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BdBanshee Posted April 2, 2004 Report Share Posted April 2, 2004 Got the flywheel/stator assembly off after work. Don't have an impact wrench unfortunately so had to settle for a Craftsman strap wrench (carefully) and elbow grease to remove the flywheel. Will pull everything else over the weekend except for cracking the cases. Parts should arrive Monday. You are going to need an impact to get the clutch basket off. Do not stick anything through the fingers on the clutch basket unless you plan on buying a new one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akpopeye Posted April 2, 2004 Report Share Posted April 2, 2004 do it the right way, follow clymers, remove the topend, check the rings, clean the pistons up, put everything in a cleaning solution, then rebuild the whole thing, get your crank checked out too...have it trued and welded, maybe send your flywheel out to lightened,do a shift star mod...... youll have peace of mind for a long time that your engine is in order...youll just loose a lil money for new seals and gaskets and some time, but doing it the right way always pays off., youll have a new motor almost!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater006 Posted April 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2004 Well, the motor is practically brand new so I'd rather not take apart the whole upper end. Its just the low end having difficulties. Already had the upper apart recently (after purchasing a couple months ago) and it is in good shape. No need to tear it down again. Bdbanshee, I read in the manual to stuff a rag between the primary gear and clutch basket gear to help loosen both the primary gear nut and clutch basket nut. It makes me nervous but I asked a mechanic friend and he assured me it would be fine. He helped me rebuild my 250R and is absolutely brilliant... when I'm in the area, I enlist his help and repay him with computer help The manual mentions a clutch holder tool, also, but I'm sure the rag trick will work just fine. Just have to move it to the other side of where those gears mesh to loosen the other nut. Could always probably use the Sears strap wrench again, very carefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nighty Posted April 2, 2004 Report Share Posted April 2, 2004 I dont see "bearings" in your list of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater006 Posted April 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2004 Ah, yeah.. I got a set of 4 of those. The crank bearings were brand new when I bought it so I'm just going to do the 4 on the gear clusters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wansomordis Posted April 5, 2004 Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 If might be fine to use a rag to get it off but how you going to torque it to 65 ft pounds putting it back on ???? I made these for about 5 bucks at the most Looks aren't everything .. work just fine better than paying 30 for motion Pro's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater006 Posted April 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 I'll reverse the rag to the other side (top) spot of where the gears mesh. Same deal to keep them from spinning while tightening. 65 ft/lb isn't too much honestly. Just sucks breaking it free to get it loose. Worst case scenario is I have to go and buy an impact wrench. Not a huge deal really. Expecting to have to go buy one anyway if holding the clutch plates doesn't provide enough force to break the nut free. Will know by tonight.. hopefully won't have to go shopping for air tools... Good idea on that tool though -- if one of my coworkers has his welder setup ready to go, I might steal your idea.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted April 5, 2004 Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 I have tried the rag trick. It didn't work. I tried the penny trick, it didn't work. Don't forget about the flywheel as well. You will need a puller. You have to get the stator off. I HIGHLY suggest pulling the top end off. You will be in a world of nonsense trying to put the cases back together upside down..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater006 Posted April 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2004 I've got it all set... new stuff goes in tomorrow. I had to do the "talk to a friend and find the best deal in town on a new IR impact wrench" trick to get the clutch basket off. Half suspected it. The rag thing is only for the primary gear I think..hehe. Well the ingersoll-rand got its .8 seconds of glory. Anyway, case cracking and trans swap are going on tomorrow! boonman, I was planning to put in the new gears, bearings, seals, etc in the low end (including crank seals, carefully) and then lower the upper case & upper end back onto the lower. It shouldn't pose any problems other than getting those crank seals on which just requires a little patience. That way I can be sure the new gears and shift forks are meshing correctly. Might just end up taking the upper end apart anyway. We'll see how it goes.. wish my luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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