87blueshee Posted March 21, 2004 Report Share Posted March 21, 2004 Okay i just put my 4 wheeler back together and its an 87 and i put stainless steel lines on it and put the master cyclinder on and we start bleeding the brakes.....2 horus later we are still doign it and its not getting stiffer at all. Fluid is coming out of the bleeder. should it be gettin stiffer now or should i keep going? if you guys have any tips or tricks let me know thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee04le Posted March 21, 2004 Report Share Posted March 21, 2004 I don't know if I can explain this right, but this is what I did. First of all you need compressed air to do it the way I did. Take a T vacuum line fitting. It should be 5/16-3/8" on both ends and about 1/8" on the t'd off fitting. Blow compressed air through one of the large fittings and a good vacuum is produced on the smaller t'd off fitting. Connect this smaller fitting to your bleeder with vac hose, loosen the seal on your master cylinder and crack the bleeder while the air is flowing...and for me it purged the line and worked. watch where you are pointing the spray when the brake fluid starts shooting out and make sure you keep your master cylinder topped off while you are doing it. Also make sure that you have a crush washer on top AND bottom of your line fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tenn banshee Posted April 19, 2004 Report Share Posted April 19, 2004 I had the same problem with mine. After hours of frustration and no front brakes I started mine up and rode it for a few minutes then came back and bled the brakes and they worked fine. I guess all the vibration worked the air pockets loose and I have not had a problem since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted April 19, 2004 Report Share Posted April 19, 2004 (edited) You gotta have a hose attached to the bleeder or it'll never work. Everytime you let off the brakes, air gets sucked back in. So find some tubing at least 12" long that will fit on the bleeder nipple - I personally like using tygon tubing since its clear and very cheap. Run the other end into a bucket or similar disposal area. Then pour some fluid in the reservoir and start pumping the brakes with the reservoir cover OFF. Don't let the reservoir go empty or you'll have to start all over. As soon as you've got straight brake fluid and no air bubbles coming out the tube tighten up the bleeder with the hose still attached - you're done. Do for both sides then fill up the reservoir and put the cover back on. Takes 10 min tops. Edited April 19, 2004 by Wallrat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCOTT PRESSLEY Posted April 19, 2004 Report Share Posted April 19, 2004 Mighty vac.Tried to bleed my fronts with everything,after I got very tired of not making any head way I went and got one.it came from Auto Zone only cost 25.00 and made it very easy to do just hook it up pull a vacume and make sure your res. don't get empty and your set.The instructions that came with it was very helpful.Also you may need to put some white plumers tape on your bleeders so they want leak air around them while your bleeding your brakes.also has a container on it to catch the fluid so you can keep using what comes out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otis Posted April 19, 2004 Report Share Posted April 19, 2004 I use the Motion Pro brake bleeder. basically it's just a one way check valve. Put it on, crack the bleeder screw and pump away till there's no more air, Close the screw, and toss 'er back in the tool box till next time. or there's the SPEED BLEEDER . it replaces the bleeder screw altogether. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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