badbanshee99 Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 I just bought a wet nitrous kit for my banshee, I'm not sure if i should install it as a wet kit or if i can change it to a dry kit. What should i do? If dry how do I convert it over? Need Help, Thanks Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIRTBIKEZ Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 My vote is for wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbanshee99 Posted March 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 I heard wet is very touchy on 2 strokes, could melt down very easlily. What I am woried about is jetting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIRTBIKEZ Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Honetly I dont know anything about nitrous on 2 strokes. However, I do know that you've come the the right place. Theres bound to be at least one person who will be able to help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbanshee99 Posted March 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 I hope so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast frankie Posted March 11, 2004 Report Share Posted March 11, 2004 I run nos on my bike I would use it as a wet system. as far as jetting goes run it the same as you where no jetting change just back off on the timing if you have any questions just ask I will be glad to help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee04le Posted March 11, 2004 Report Share Posted March 11, 2004 2stroke or 4stroke, a properly setup wet system is safer and capable of making much more power than a dry system. Anybody who really knows anything about NOS will tell you the same. Like fast frankie said, do not advance your timing and use at least a 50/50 mix of race gas. Dry systems use crankcase pressure and a special manifold to pressurize you carburator float bowls, which forces more fuel through your carb jetting to supply the needed demand. A wet kit uses a fuel pump to supply regulated fuel pressure to the nozzles. This allows for more precise control of the no2/fuel mix at the nozzle. If imagestation isn't f'd up right now, you can see some of the plumbing and wiring of my wet kit below (You won't see much wiring because I did such a clean job of installing it ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbanshee99 Posted March 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2004 what kind of motor mods did you have to do to yours? What does it run like on just premium fuel?Should I plain my head at all or what do you suggest i do to the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee04le Posted March 11, 2004 Report Share Posted March 11, 2004 I ported my own reed cages with information from the hq here and had a shop mill my head .030. Other than the fatty's, the rest of the engine is stock. If you plan on making more than 60hp with the juice, get your crank welded. I haven't, but that is just because I have decided that I want a stroker crank, but I don't want to tear apart a perfectly good motor. So I'm not worried about it. If my crank goes, I'll just be forced to get my stroker even sooner. You don't have to do anything to the motor to run the nos if you don't want. Taking .030 off the head surface is a great mod though. I don't have to downshift as much now to get the engine in the power band. It will lug a lower gear now and pull itself back into the powerband. Race fuel (at least a mix) is required for an extra margin of safety when running nos. More power means more heat and pressure in the combustion chamber. Hotter surface temperatures (cylinder, piston, spark plug) contribute to the possibility of predetonation in the cylinder, which will melt your shit down fast. High octane race fuel has greater resistance to predetonation. I highly recommend it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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