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There is a groove in the flywheel for the key ti fit in. You really can't mess the flywheel up if your carefull. Make shure the key is seated properly. If the nut is not torqued properly it could come loose and cause all kinds of hell. excessive vibration is one sign it's not seated right. the vibration will wear out or crank bearing prematurly.

The book calls for a graball or spanner wrench to hold the flywheel steady for torquing. You can stuff a clean rag inbetween the gears from the crank to the clutch or put it in gear and chalk the wheels so it won't move. so long as you get the nut to proper torque any method will work. If your using the gear/wheel chalk method, go slow, if you stuff a rag in the gears, keep an eye tomake shue the gears don't eat too much of the rag. If you use a spanner wrench, make shue the prongs fill the holes and keep it steady, if they're too long it could rub against the stator and cause damage.

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I just tighten it down. I am a human torque wrench..... :o:rolleyes: Seriously, I would just put the wheel on, and torque it to about 65....

 

 

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Lose the friggin caps. There is a caps lock key. turn it off..... That shit is ever annoying.....

Edited by boonman
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You just gotta spend some time lifting weights. Figure out how much a 10lb or 25lb weight feels like and do the math in your head. At least its accurate if you're thinking about how much resistance you'd be needing to move a 25lb weight, and the simple formula of leverage, and its not that bad. That's my torque wrench ;) Relatively decent ;)

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Have you ever tested that theory? I'd be interested to know how far off you really are. You need to take into account the "leverage" applied with the wrench that you dont have with the weight. Get the right tools, even a lowend torque wrench is better then nothing and you can use it for alot of other stuff.

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Good God man!!!! A beam torque wrench is $20 from Sears. Get one. I actually just bought a 3/8" microtork Craftsman for the lighter torques. 25-250 in/lb. I have my 1/2" microtork for 25-250 ft/lb. No comparison for a torque wrench. SOme things can be gotten away with. Liek the flywheel nut. The flywheel is on a taper. It takes alot not to tighten that properly. but a head, or the cases, you need to tighten that shit evenly. That';s the point of a torque wrench. Not the proper torque, but that each bolt is tightened the same......... ;)

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The book calls for a graball or spanner wrench to hold the flywheel steady for torquing. You can stuff a clean rag inbetween the gears from the crank to the clutch or put it in gear and chalk the wheels so it won't move.

I just take a ratchet strap tie-down & hook it to the frame behind the shifter where the swingarm connects to the frame & tighten it down so the flywheel won't budge. Did that just the other day to get the flywheel nut off, worked like a charm. When I put my flywheel back on the last time I replaced the stator I just tightened it by hand....tight, then a little, and I didn't have any problems. Had I had a torque wrench on hand then I would have used it, but I didn't so I risked it and luckily didn't have any problems. This time I'll get'r torqued to specs.

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