Mxracer776 Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 :angry:i put my shee together back in nov.i got it in pieces. when i got it running it ran good but in the high rpm it would break up. i thought it was just jetting problems.i rode it only twice since then, i went to go ride it the other day and it would not start. i thought it was plugs so i changed them and still no good. i checked it for spark and it had none.i borrowed a friends coil and it started so i featured it was the coil and ordered a new one. put the new coil on it started, stalled and would not fire. checked for spark and it had none. checked all the wires, key switch.etc all good. checked for spark again and it had it. started the quad it ran pretty good then turned off the key and it was still running.gave it some throttle and it reved up.let it idle it stalled and it had no spark again. checked the key switch it was ok i guess. my friends cdi is differrent so i coundn't try it. well anyway the spark keeps coming and going and i don't know if it is the cdi box or the stater?any help would be graetful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBrian Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 Sounds like your at the brink of aggrevation. Pull your stator cover off and take a look. Is the pickup coil loose? Moisture will raise hell with your stator if it got wet.I'm curious if you are grounded properly.I'm thinking it's the cdi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frocashmoney24 Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 im thinkin the cdi, but it could be the coil, try the cdi first as the coils gonna be harder to get to, your gonna hae to do trial and error, just replace stuff with parts off good running bikes and see if it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hockey390 Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 Sounds simmilar to what I had with my shee... I removed the TORS and put on a twist throttle. When I added the twist throttle I removed something and I have no idea what it was, but theres a picture of it below. It is int he twist throttle, that lil thing made it so I didnt have spark, and disconnecting the TORS without a removal kit made it so I couldnt shut it off... That sucked because the twist throttle was tightened too much and the thing was like wide open, and i couldnt shut it off... bad times.. If you added a twist throttle and that is your problem, I just connected mine again, removed the part fromt he thumb throttle, coiled it up and attached it to the frame. Might not be cosmetically sound, but it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lightninn2 Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 Hockey390, The part you removed from the thumb throttle is a microswitch. The way the T.O.R.S. system works is it senses with switches that both of the arms your throttle cable is attached to (on top of the carbs) as well as the lever arm inside your thumb throttle housing are in their 'home' positions when the throttle is not open. If either of the carb slides are open even a little and the thumb throttle is at its home position, the system kills the engine. If you want to totally remove the saftey system, unplug the thumb throttle microswitch from the harness, next unplug both the wires coming from the stock carb tops, and lastly unplug and remove the small 'box' located left of the coil on the frame under the fuel tank. That should remove the system entirely from the harness. The downside of this is that if your carb or carbs get stuck open for some reason, the engine will just rev away like you've witnessed. If this happens while riding, you'll have to have kill the engine yourself with the switch at the left handgrip or with a tether switch if you ever come off it. Lightninn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotulMonsta Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 Your best bei is to disconnect the Tors like ol' dude said then if you still have ignition issues, test the stator if that checks out good then check your entire wiring harness and all connections. try unplugging the lights to single out just the ignition system. If that turns out good, then check the coil and plug wires. Finaly if everything else is FLAWLESS and in good working order, your CDI is bad. check the wires to make shure none are frayed. There is no test that can be done to determine if the cdi is good or bad. You'll have to pick up a known good one to find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mxracer776 Posted March 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 kick the shee this mourning and it had spark for two kicks then nothing.i have the TORS box unplugged and my coil is new.anyone know where i can see a wiring diagram online. going to tast the harness tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mxracer776 Posted March 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 how would i test the stator resisatance test and what reading do i look for? thanks for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIRTBIKEZ Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Maybe this will help: **Sorry this image I trieds to attatch is too large 82.5Kb vs the alloted 50Kb. Its the wire diagram, email me DIRTBIKEZ@AOL.COM and I can send it over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotulMonsta Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 My bike did the same thing...it would spark, then stop. I had to replace every thing. stator cdi, coil wiring harness. Man what a diffrence that made. When I replaced the coil, it still was fucked, when I replaced the stator, I had intermitten spark that semed to get better after I let it sit for an hour. So I replaced the wiring harness because the old one was a hack job and I wanted to simplify the ignition wiring anyways by eliminating all lighting wires. It worked better after that, but then the bike decided to quit on me while I was practicing. Now it ran fine, but then I went to start it up after I made some jetting changes and it refused. So seeing as the only thing I had not repaced was the cdi, I went ahead and did that. I was used to getting spark every third rotation..and a weak spark at that. now I don't even have to try, it will spark with minimal effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotulMonsta Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 I'd get a manual to get the specs to test, the stator can easly be diagnosed wrong if you test it improperly. The wiring harness will take you days. I's a pain in the ass, spend the 100 bucks for a new one to replace your hack job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotulMonsta Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Quick note..if you constantly blow out one headlight as opposed to the other, particularly the high beam, you have stator issues. Don't know why but it's common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geaux 4 it Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Wouldn't you have problems with the voltage regulator if you keep blowing headlight bulbs.The voltage regulator controls the voltage to the lighting system.I have seen the stator play dumb games like fire one time and then not.I have seen them ohm out correctly and not fire also.One thing I did try and it will work at times depending how bad the stator is.Heat the stator with a heat gun to see if it will fire then.Sometimes the heat will change the resistance in the stator causing it to fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.