halo2 Posted February 28, 2004 Report Share Posted February 28, 2004 Just got done with an overhaul of my engine. Got the cylinders cleaned up .20 over, wiseco piston, cool head 21 cc domes and just bought the 33mm 2 into 1 carb. I been screwing around with this new carb for a while now. Can't seem to get it dialed in right. Keeps loading up on me. I started out with a 50 on the pilot and a 180 on the main. And now im down to a 42 on the pilot and 172 on the main, and it still fouls my plugs. Is that normal that i should have to go down that much? I live in florida and its around 80 degrees. Also i just put new reeds in. It runs great wot but when i come down it starts to sputter and bogg out sometimes. Please any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted February 29, 2004 Report Share Posted February 29, 2004 Just got done with an overhaul of my engine. Got the cylinders cleaned up .20 over, wiseco piston, cool head 21 cc domes and just bought the 33mm 2 into 1 carb. I been screwing around with this new carb for a while now. Can't seem to get it dialed in right. Keeps loading up on me. I started out with a 50 on the pilot and a 180 on the main. And now im down to a 42 on the pilot and 172 on the main, and it still fouls my plugs. Is that normal that i should have to go down that much? I live in florida and its around 80 degrees. Also i just put new reeds in. It runs great wot but when i come down it starts to sputter and bogg out sometimes. Please any help would be appreciated. well, depends on your mods. what pipes, reeds, head, porting, and anything else you know of? stock might be close, but if you have pipes, it sounds a little lean to me. i was at 185 main / 50 pilot for awhile with fatties, vforce reeds and open lid, and i just went up some. what clip is the needle in, should be no less than third from the top. you might need to adjust your air screw some also. when you put the motor back together did you inspect the reeds, the carb and all? did you use fresh plugs, and fresh gas? that might be a stupid question, but just wondering. get back to us on the mods and stuff and we can go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil Posted February 29, 2004 Report Share Posted February 29, 2004 key word sredish mentioned up there "open lid" depending on what you have as a air intake will make a huge difference in the jetting on the single carb. are you running a lid, an open k&n, the air box adapter with no lid, with lid but the 6 vent holes cut in it ? list the mods and the air box style and we can help out alot more. later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff_rida69 Posted February 29, 2004 Report Share Posted February 29, 2004 I've got the same problem right now, it runs fine at wot, I started with a 48 pilot and a 180 main, I'm down to a 40 pilot and I'm still running the 180 main because it feels perfect at wot and every thime I do a plug check my plugs are solid black, my needle is in the middle and my air srew is 1 1/2 srew out, and my mods are below, I'm at around 1500ft and its around 60 degrees here in georgia. Thanks Jonathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted February 29, 2004 Report Share Posted February 29, 2004 I've got the same problem right now, it runs fine at wot, I started with a 48 pilot and a 180 main, I'm down to a 40 pilot and I'm still running the 180 main because it feels perfect at wot and every thime I do a plug check my plugs are solid black, my needle is in the middle and my air srew is 1 1/2 srew out, and my mods are below, I'm at around 1500ft and its around 60 degrees here in georgia. Thanks Jonathan where are you guys looking at the plug. this is a great page to refer to when reading spark plugs. Reading spark plugs. On my machine, I don't care if it's black, if it looks a little rich but rips on wot, then leave it and begin playing with your pilot and needle. Actually, i adjust the needle very first (if it needs adjusting), then main, then pilot. If it looks rich and bogs a little, back it off till it quits bogging. The center electrode (very tip) should be black, although not oily, maybe trace amounts on your finger. the porcelain will be a medium grayish brown color and the base of the porcelain, inside the threads should be a dark brownish. if your sure it's somewhat on the rich side of the line, but running good, that's just the way I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halo2 Posted February 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2004 hey guys thanks for your replys. I got fmf fatty pipes on and open k&n. Do you think I should get v-force reeds. I have stock reed cages right now with new reeds but they just seem a little weak to me. I can press on them with my finger and they seem to have very little tension. Is that normal? Also whats weird is when I had the 50 pilot in it would barely idle and the idle screw was turned all the way in. Now that I put the 42 pilot in I can just start to adjust it a little bit.( What i mean by idle screw is the one with the spring on it.) Right now I have the clip on the 2nd notch from the top and the screw 2 turns out. Here are my mods again .20 over, wiseco pistons, fmf fatty pipes, cool head 21cc domes. +3 timing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted February 29, 2004 Report Share Posted February 29, 2004 hey guys thanks for your replys. I got fmf fatty pipes on and open k&n. Do you think I should get v-force reeds. I have stock reed cages right now with new reeds but they just seem a little weak to me. I can press on them with my finger and they seem to have very little tension. Is that normal? Also whats weird is when I had the 50 pilot in it would barely idle and the idle screw was turned all the way in. Now that I put the 42 pilot in I can just start to adjust it a little bit.( What i mean by idle screw is the one with the spring on it.) Right now I have the clip on the 2nd notch from the top and the screw 2 turns out. Here are my mods again .20 over, wiseco pistons, fmf fatty pipes, cool head 21cc domes. +3 timing First, I'd most definitely change the needle to 3rd from the top/blunt end. The needle will help everything from 1/8th to 3/4 throttle. Second, I'd get it to idle so you can run it, however you need to do that for right now. Third, I'd get it good and warmed up and run it in 4th or 5th gear wide-open-throttle and kill it dead, for a plug check. Get your main jet running right, and then worry about your pilot. Bogging doesn't always mean rich either, it will bog in some lean situations, so it's best to check the plug so you know why its bogging. Don't even worry about the funny idle or how the pilots doing right now, only worry about the full throttle response, period. Work on the main and get it right. If it does bog and die on the wot run, check the plug before you start it back up to see why it died, your plugs are a direct communication link to your bike. Also, 3/4s of the time, a lean condition feels like its running good until "boom", so you can't go by feel. Fourth, after the main is set and it's running right at full throttle, dial in the pilot. Adjust the pilot so that it starts good and idles good, runs good farting around and has good low end throttle response. The pilot is almost a throttle response thing on these machines. Now, you should be running balls to the walls, sound easy? Unless your at a higher elevation, I believe your a little lean on the main, but I could be wrong. Once you get it to idle, I'd consider throwing a 180 back in it and see how that does. You might end up around 178. You do have all the necessary jets correct? I have a 175 through a 230 main, and a 48 through 60 pilot0 and i use the hell out of them to dial my machine in. Please read the "reading spark plugs" article I posted above, that will really really help in reading plugs. It will help you interpret what's going on so you know how to reply. I don't care how much or little you know, that page has something to help everyone. Play around and let us know. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted February 29, 2004 Report Share Posted February 29, 2004 Oh, forgot about your vforce question. new reeds on the stock cage won't do too much, the vforce will help quite a bit. also, you need to rejet with vforce reeds, so if you want them, nows the time, or face another jetting session. Read this article "How to Jet". It's a great article on the basics. Trust me, we all need something to refer to now and then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halo2 Posted February 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2004 hey thanks Scott, Im going to spend the money and get v-force reeds, then i'll try to dial it in from there. I'll let you know what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted February 29, 2004 Report Share Posted February 29, 2004 hey thanks Scott, Im going to spend the money and get v-force reeds, then i'll try to dial it in from there. I'll let you know what happens. Cool. Let us know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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