J-Madd Posted January 25, 2004 Report Posted January 25, 2004 I have a stock banshee other than the listed mods. (I have Boyesen valves/reeds..not FMF) I have 200 main jet and a 25 pilot. Not sure about needle clip position (I forgot to look). It seems to run rich at idle and lean at full throttle. I did the choke trick and it did run better once it got moving....would stall at idle or low throttle. I haven't done a plug chop, but I did look at my plugs AFter a few minutes of hard riding. The base of the threaded spark plug area had spots of tan/brown and spots of no color. The rest of the plug was black and wet. Also..it sputters in gear 1 through 3 at all throttle ranges..1/4 3/4 WOT, etc. How could this be the jetting? The motor should rev the same and feel the same (rich, lean, etc) no matter what gear its in...shouldn't it? I can't pop the clutch and even lift the wheels in the first 3 gears, but once I get into about 4th gear it seems to "lean out" and it starts flying. PLEASE HELP! I just bought this bike and it has done this since I first rode it. I just put the FMF Rad Valve in and the Power Series Reeds and it seems to run about the same...maybe a little leaner at WOT. Thanks for any assistance. ( I have already read "Banshee Jetting FAQs" in its entirety) Quote
superchicken Posted January 25, 2004 Report Posted January 25, 2004 200 mains are stock,with a k+n you should jet it up a bit.but im no expert on jetting,as for thoughts on going leaner bad idea.also whats your elevation? Quote
sheeweet Posted January 25, 2004 Report Posted January 25, 2004 Now it depends on your elevation and temperature too. I am at sea level and it's highs of 60 degrees F today. For my conditions I would go out and get some 240 main jets and throw those in. I would adjust my air screws 1.5 turns out from closed and see where i'm at. When I buy the main jets i would also get 230's and 250's cause 240 is just a guess and could be wrong. You will want an assortment anyway for the changing seasons. I would also get #27.5 pilots too just incase. However I just payed $67.00 on the same amount of jets (4 sets) at the Yamaha dealer, Oh and make sure the needle are in the stock location.. Quote
J-Madd Posted January 25, 2004 Author Report Posted January 25, 2004 I have some jets ordered, but I think I went too big. I ordered jets for when I get my T6s. I think I ordered 290s through 350s. I also ordered all of the pilots 27.5-35. My elevation is about 300 ft, and temp today is about 45F. I'm also running the air screws at 1.5 turns out already. As for going leaner, I know that's a bad idea. Maybe my post was unclear, but I didn't mean to say that I was going to go leaner. Does anyone have any ideas on the other problem (the second paragraph about sputtering)? Quote
sheeweet Posted January 25, 2004 Report Posted January 25, 2004 When are your T6's coming in? Maybe you should just wait till you put those on. I didn't like the spotting of the plugs discription, that indicates detonation. Detonation will destroy your motor real fast. Check that all of the carburator hoses are hooked up securely and check there are no air leakes at the airfilter connection and where the carbs bolt to the reed cages and the reed cages bolt to the cylinders, make sure you did not damage any gaskets when you put in your new reeds. Check that you r carbs are spotless inside and no jets are clogged. Your under 500', temp 45F. For T6's and your other mods try 330 mains first and then see if you need to throw in some pilots. I think you will probably end up putting in #30 pilots. I would't think of running it right now till you get those jets. Quote
J-Madd Posted January 25, 2004 Author Report Posted January 25, 2004 I haven't ordered the T6s yet. I'm saving up the money. I've got a set of 20 over wiseco prolites ready to go in. I'm not too concerned about the pistons that are in it, I don't care if I burn 'em up. Its a '99 and the motor has never been rebuilt. As far as the plugs..I don't think I have any detonation or leaks around the cages or carbs, etc. It ran like that before I took off the carbs. I did just notice (after about an hour of riding) that one of my idle screws was missing (the kind on the side, not TORS). I'm sure that cylinder was running extremely lean as that carb was sucking air through the hole. I guess I'll order another idle screw from magic racing, along with some 220 through 280 mains (to complete my set) I have another question: can the mains be drilled out to a larger size? I think I have seen this question before, but I don't know the answer. I'm sure it would take an extremely small, precise bit to accomplish that task, Quote
Banchetta Posted January 26, 2004 Report Posted January 26, 2004 The problem is 2 things, ONe that screw is not an idle screw but an air screw... that affect your throttle response a lot... Two: your main problem is your running too rich on the needles..when you put the reed valves in, you richened the middle circuit a LOT...Lower your needles to the 2nd clip from the blunt end and you'll be stylin. Quote
J-Madd Posted January 26, 2004 Author Report Posted January 26, 2004 Banchetta, But the sputterring occurred before I installed the reeds. I will lower the needle postition and let ya know. The screw IS the idle screw. I have the TORS removed. I didn't make that clear. I'll have to order the Idle screw and the jets. So here's what ya'll are telling me so far: (feel free to make corrections) 1. Go up in main jet size (240 or so). 2. MOve needle clip to 2nd position. 3. Increase pilot to 30? Another note: what is the purpose of the idle screws...............couldn't you just idle both carbs by tightening the throttle cable.......I've always wondered that, b/c I leave my screws pretty far out, which is low idle, and tighten the throttle cable to idle it up. I'm sure there is a real obvious answer. Feel free to enlighten me anyone. Thanks all Quote
spoin39 Posted January 27, 2004 Report Posted January 27, 2004 The screws on the cap are for synchronizung the carbs so they move at the same time. The idle screw that was missing from the carbs would cause that side to be lean, I think you need to go up 1 size on the pilot (27.5) and turn the airscrew out 1.5 turns. The main also needs to be increased to about 240 like was mentioned. Quote
RIDEKY Posted January 27, 2004 Report Posted January 27, 2004 HEY J-MADD THOUGHT YOU MIGHT MAKE SURE THAT YOUR SLIDES ARE IN THE PROPER CARB, CAUSE YOU CAN PUT THEM IN EITHER CARB WHICH WILL PUT THE CUT AWAY PART IN THE FRONT AND WON'T ALLOW ENOUGH AIR TO COME THROUGH AT IDLE. Quote
J-Madd Posted January 27, 2004 Author Report Posted January 27, 2004 HEY J-MADD THOUGHT YOU MIGHT MAKE SURE THAT YOUR SLIDES ARE IN THE PROPER CARB, CAUSE YOU CAN PUT THEM IN EITHER CARB WHICH WILL PUT THE CUT AWAY PART IN THE FRONT AND WON'T ALLOW ENOUGH AIR TO COME THROUGH AT IDLE. Thanks for the suggestion, but the slides are in the correct carbs. The reason I know is because it took forever to get the suckers back in. I had to pull the carbs back off and hold the needles straight to get them to fall into the main. On other bikes I had been able to drop the slides right in as long as the groove on the side was in the correct alignment. As for the idle screw I lost.......I got hasty and ordered the entire kit again (both screws, tap, etc) and blew 30 bucks, plus shipping. I couldn't think of anywhere to buy that one screw, and didn't want to take the time to have it made at a machine shop. Quote
Banchetta Posted January 27, 2004 Report Posted January 27, 2004 STay w/ stock pilots. You don't need larger pilots for stock pipes.. You do have to get another screw or you wont' be able to get a controllable idle....You can reverse the slides...If you put the right slide in the left carb, then its backwards... the slides have a cutaway or angle on one side which you should be able to see from the intake or air cleaner side.....just make sure they are correct.. Quote
J-Madd Posted January 27, 2004 Author Report Posted January 27, 2004 Believe it or not, it actually idles fine. This may be because I set the idle with my throttle cable. It holds the slides up. I'll stay with a stock pilot and raise my needle clip pos. and put in 240s when I get em. Quote
Banchetta Posted January 27, 2004 Report Posted January 27, 2004 Believe it or not, it actually idles fine. This may be because I set the idle with my throttle cable. It holds the slides up. I'll stay with a stock pilot and raise my needle clip pos. and put in 240s when I get em. I did the same thing as you. I didn't bother w/ the idle screws and just used my cable....make sure you sync the carbs w/ the nuts on top of the carbs, then adjust the idle w/ the adjustment on the handlebars....to sync them, make sure you have slack in the cable, then adjust the slides so they are barely touching the bottom of the carbs. Once they are the same, then adjust the idle.. Quote
J-Madd Posted January 27, 2004 Author Report Posted January 27, 2004 They looked sync'ed, but i didn't loosen the throttle cable at the handlebars first. I guess I could try checking the synchronization with a loose cable if it still doesn't run right after I put the jets in. Quote
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