banshee370 Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 Post what the problem is here.... digital pics... explanations of what you did and what has been done.... Lets see if we can help ya... What o-rings do you need? I have a few spare sets.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 heh, alright well I think SDD is going to help me figure this out once he compleats a leak down tester . Ever since I put the new domes in my NOSS cooling head I have been spitting coolant out the pipes and it also spits out all over my pipes. I pulled the head and drove to yuma (from gordons)to replace a pinched O-ring the first time and they were closed untill monday so that ruined my trip..I had some spares 9at home) DLNOSS sent me so I replaced a pinched O-ring with those.. I was extra super careful when I re-installed the head and I made sure to use LOTS of grease this time and that they were all seated properly as I put the head together...Next trip to glamis I was only there friday night and ended up spending the rest of the time at superstition so my GF could ride her parents dirtbikes...TO make things worse My cooler opened up and I lost 1/2 my 12 pack of newcastle because I flipped the trailer around too fast since I was in a pissy mood... anyways, It is still leaking coolant, even after I blew what was in the crank and what not out. Now when I start up the bike, big puffs of white smoke out the pipes followed by a spray of coolant, soon there after or sometimes almost right away it starts spitting coolant out all over my pipes through the overflow (even if the bike is not that hot). What can I say? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlnoss Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 I sent you a PM -David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 Dlnoss hopefully I'll let you know soon, SDD says the leak down tester is all ready Thanks for the offer. I'm not blaming any domes at this point, Im also new to installing heads, although it did seem to be a rather easy and painless process, maybe I screwed up..But it seems odd to me. Everything looked sealed up nicely, and I looked at the left dome from the exhaust port and didn't notice anything leaking. (Took pipe off). Need to get it running soon for that lighting pic-video some of you want to see BTW thanks for making the post and offering help banshee370 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Quad Racer Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 have you had the cylinders off? its not leaking out the bottom bungs of the cylinders into the crankcase? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee370 Posted January 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 Justin: How do you install the o-rings? You dont need a LOT of grease... too much can cause it to move too.. At worse I have a few stock head gaskets.... I can send you one so you can put your stock head back on for the trip. Once everyone gets out to the dunes we could change the head there and get a good look at everything to make sure all is well Did you get a good look at the face of the head that mates to the cyls? Make sure it wasnt dropped or if there are any cracks.. Im not saying you did this... but I have seen people install a head and they didnt get everything lined up as needed and as they torqued the head down they cracked it.... Or even put a gouge into one of the plates/domes and instant water leak.... If its apart now I would recommend getting a VERY close look at all the parts.... Keep us updated w/ what you find after the leak down test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 I didn't use gobs of grease or anything, but I made sure all the rings had a smoothed down coat to fill in the sides of the o-rings to make sure they would stick, everything seemed to line up perfectly on this second install (slided the dome a bit; maybe 1 cm the fist time to get it to line up, which was obviously caused the pinched o-ring) so no sliding of any parts this time, I got the head on and it seemed to have lined up perfectly and laid flat, but again this is only my second time doing this and the first time I did pinch a ring...Im loosing all confidence in myself at this point. I torqued in the right patteren in increments of 3-4 foot pounds, untill they were all torqued at 20... I'll find out soon enough, I think the shee would seriously run shitty with the stock head, I had some loss of bottem end with 20cc domes after the 12-port, the compression was only 148 after the rings seated with 20cc, plus when I removed the stock head there was a slight casting flaw on the dome. (I thought detonation or something broke off and hit it, but nope, definately a casting flaw! (THANKS YAMAHA!), I don't think the flaw ever hurt anything, but no sense in putting the stock head on... Oh yea, and I didn't dent, drop, crack, or scratch the head or anything like that either..So I think there is a good chance I screwed up somehow, or else it is leaking someplace else. What would pressurize the water pump to shoot coolant onto the pipe so quickly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDD Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 Justin give me a call tonight so I can pencil in some time for the leak down test. If the head is leaking we can pull it off and check it on a surface plate to make sure it's flat. Justin when you put the head back together after the pinched o-ring did you put the domes back on the same sides they were on? If the same side is leaking it might just be a bad dome (if it was cut just .002 off in height it might not seal correctly but I doubt thats the case). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 Did you take off the cylinders? If so, with the head off, make sure the tops of the cylinders are perfectly flat using a straight edge. I has a little piece of metal make it under the cylinder when I was bolting them on once. Made the head leak. Use a straight edge to check the head and domes too just to make sure. When the head is off, make sure the sleeves didn't move. They should be flush with the top of the cylinder. If they moved... uh oh. , but I dought it. The reason the coolant blows out so fast is because compression from the engine is building up in the cooling system. Not the coolant pump pushing it out that fast. If you take the radiator cap off while it's running, you'll probably see it bubble like crazy at the radiator or even blow out and the smoke will dye down some at the exhaust. Man, I wish we could see it in person. You'll get it fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 ok SDD I'll call you tonight. When I put the head back on I rotated the domes, that way I would know something is up if the other side started to do the same thing...Ill be sure to check all those things when we get to it also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee370 Posted January 22, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2004 Justin: Didnt you say you just had Passion do the porting w/ boost ports? Have you removed the intakes? I hate saying this so please do NOT take it the wrong way. Ive seen it happen in the past and Im not saying that what Jim from Passion did caused it.. but its possible. When adding boost ports its "possible" to hit a water jacket. This could also cause a water leak. BUT if the water is shooting from between the head/cyl then you may have other serious issues. As Fixitrod stated.... I would start off by verifying that the head/cyl tops are flat and true. Do you have any 400 or 600 grit sandpaper? You will also need a piece of FLAT steel. Tape the sheet of paper on the steel and run the domes and head plate in a figure 8 motion over the sandpaper a few times. Pick up the dome or head plate and look around the plate/dome and make sure that all the marks are even. If you see a discolored area or a spot that doesnt match the cross hatch marks, then there is your problem.. If you need another set of O-rings let me know and I can ship them off when ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted January 23, 2004 Report Share Posted January 23, 2004 going to look into everything this weekend. No way in hell im sanding all the red Annodized shit off the head plate though Ill let you guys know what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PassionRE Posted January 23, 2004 Report Share Posted January 23, 2004 Actually my 12 port cylinders are not equipped with "boost" ports. Boost ports generally refer to additional transfer ports located at the rear of the cylinders. A Banshee motor has more than enough "boost" as it is and personally I wish they didn't even have the ones they come with. My 12 ports are additional intake ports (finger ports)located on the left and right of the normal intake ports.These gases are redirected through window ports in the liners below the rear transfers at an angle and increased velocity torwards normal inflow gases. The result is an intake tract that has much more volume and maintains characteristics in low to mid rpm ranges of a high velocity low volume intake due to superior fuel atomization. They also allow the needed volume increases for increased rpm. These ports are not near the water jackets at all....Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee370 Posted January 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2004 Actually my 12 port cylinders are not equipped with "boost" ports. Boost ports generally refer to additional transfer ports located at the rear of the cylinders. A Banshee motor has more than enough "boost" as it is and personally I wish they didn't even have the ones they come with. My 12 ports are additional intake ports (finger ports)located on to the left and right of the normal intake ports.These gases are redirected through window ports in the liners below the rear transfers at an angle and increased velocity torwards normal inflow gases, The result is and intake tract that has much more volume and maintains characteristics in low to mid rpm ranges of a high velocity low volume intake due to superior fuel atomization. They also allow the needed volume increases for increased rpm. These ports are not near the water jackets at all....Jim Jim: Thank you for clearing that up for me... I hope you didnt take my post wrong, since that was not my intention. Sorry Justin: I'm not saying to sand off all your anodizing... All your trying to do is verify that the head plate is flat and true. Also... The area that you would be sanding is what mates up against the cyls. No where it would be visable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PassionRE Posted January 23, 2004 Report Share Posted January 23, 2004 No offense taken, I was pretty sure that you had not seen my porting. And the post really was just to clear up the fact that my 12 ports dont have additional "boost" ports...Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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