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New 4mil Stroker ?


13RAZOR13

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hello im new to this forum:)

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i have a 87shee this motor was rebuilt over 4yr's ago and its time--

.my wife bought me a 4mil short rod stroker crank (I Love That Women) and im looking for the best way to set up the motor, I would like to keep it stock looking , I was told that if I use two stock base gaskets and work the head (cut eighth-thous.and rework the domes for proper squish) is all i would need is that trully it ?My bike has a 7degre key and a lightened flywheel plus pipes and heavy duty clutch, i mostly drag race.

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thanks for any info or suggestions

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You can get special pistons that are designed for your +4 stroker crank so you don't have to mess will plates and extra gaskets.  They cost a little more than the typical piston, but its more stealthy.

I didn't know this. I know you can get special pistons for a long rod, but don't think for the 4mm. All your builder has to do is cut 2mm out of the head. Make sure to have the ports cut to match your riding and you'll love it.

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I didn't know this. I know you can get special pistons for a long rod, but don't think for the 4mm. All your builder has to do is cut 2mm out of the head. Make sure to have the ports cut to match your riding and you'll love it.

 

I will check again because the pistons that I was referring to might be for the longrod +4stroker.

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fixitrod thats kind of what i heard. i heard two things that the people with the 4mil stroker short rods dont need the pistons that have the off set pin they can use all the different reagular banshee pistons available out there but need to work the stock head but they told me i had to cut eighty-thous. and then reshape the dooms and add two base gaskets-

.2nd the people using the short rods are faster than the people using the 4mil stroker with a long rod because of the torque and angle of the rod on the short rod not to mention it will rev faster.

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So the real ? for me is that is it true that all i have to do is cut "2mil" out of the head and plus the doom work?

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the cut answer is what i need to know?

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i am thankfull for all your advice and suggestions

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The only possibility to use anything other than a "stock" sized piston, (and I don't mean bore size, I am referring to wrist pin height) is when you run a Long rod, which is a 5mm longer rod. Which means that the wrist pin is set 5mm higher than the stock location to compensate. now, on a stroker motor, we'll use your 4mm crank for example. You will move the piston 2mm higher in the bore, and 2mm lower in the bore. Thus, 2mm higher + 2mm lower = 4mm total added stroke. Now, in order to compensate for the 2mm lower side, you need to have the portwork changed to match it. You can use a spacer plate to compensate for the top end of the extended stroke, but this gives you an xtra place for an air leak to develop. Now, the .080" that you mention, is right about spot on. 1mm is equal to .0394" So, 2mm = .0788". This would need to be cut out of the dome, or use the spacer plate. Either way, to maximize the power that your motor can achieve, I HIGHLY suggest that you have it ported for the type of riding you do. Choose a reputable builder, and go from there. DO not skimp on the $$ in this department. It will piss you off in the end. Do it once, and do it right. The smile on your face will thank you. As will the toilet paper and cleaning bll wen you shit your pants from the power that the proper porting will give you with the 4mm stroker crank. With the normal length rod that you have, you need to use a stock pin location piston, and ggo from there. Decide which avenue you wish to pursue with the spacer plate or a cut dome. Get it ported, and go out and spank some ass!!!!

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fiitrod

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so wich pistons?

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Im thinking of using the drop port pistons that TRICK RACING have?

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Which ones do you have?

you taklking about the vito's pistons?? Cut in the front for more exhaust timing?? But that leaves the transfers stock height....this will make it a lil' pipey.

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