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Rear Shock Adjustment


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im getting works shocks or th front of my banshee so i want to adjust my stock rear shock so that it my banshee will perfom better... Right now my spring is set at 218.5 mm height. That is the standard height however i find itsoft for jumping... Does anyone have any recommedations on what i should set it at... im about 150 poun rider so do' want it to stiff.... i was thinking abut going to 220.5 or 222.5 height.... anyone have any advise i would appreciate it...

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BansheeRider576, your spring height measurement above, is that with you sitting on the bike? If not I would reccomend pre-loading the spring no more than another 10mm, based on your weight, and if you have the stock swing arm on the bike, the factory spring provides enough rate for you ( 5.4 kg/mm 308 lb/in is the stock banshee rate) Also make sure that the rebound adjustment (bottom of the shock) is not maxxed out to full rebound, if this is the case, the shock is holding the bike down against the spring. Start with both compression and rebound adjusters at full soft and work in 4 click increments from there, after setting the height of the rear spring.

 

Dunedemon.

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the spring height above is with the measrement of th shock off of my bike... I think im just going to g with 220.5 which is only 2 mm more tan what i have now... then i will mss around with my rebound adjustments to see if i want to go another 2 mm or not to make my spring height 222.5 mm.... Any othersuggestions would be great... i plan to race MX this spring if that helps you any....

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the spring height above is with the measrement of th shock off of my bike...  I think im just going to g with 220.5 which is only 2 mm more tan what i have now... then i will mss around with my rebound adjustments to see if i want to  go another 2 mm or not to make my spring height 222.5 mm.... Any othersuggestions would be great... i plan to race MX this spring if that helps you any....

maybe this will help......Setting the rebound: 1.) Find a relatively fast straight with braking bumps leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce (Turn clicker out) the rebound damping until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Finally, increase (Turn clicker in) the rebound damping until the sensation goes away. 2.) Find a jump that tends to launch the quad out. The rear end should absorb and then smoothly lift the quad into the air. If the rear end bounces up, add rebound. (Turn clicker in) 3.) Find some large whoops. The quad should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheels extending to the ground before the next impact. If it does not perform as described as above, it is packing and the rebound damping should be reduced! (Turn clicker out) ( these rules don't apply for sand.) Setting the compression: 1.) Find a corner with acceleration bumps on the exit. The rear of the quad should follow the ground. If the rear end "breaks up", soften the compression. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the rebound two clicks.) (Turn clicker out) 2.) Find some rough sections, a large jump and a couple of "G-Outs". The shock should bottom on the roughest section but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to fight bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid going to far as small bump ride will be sacrificed in the trade. Remember the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so even a large change in setting may only affect bottoming resistance slightly. Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming load obstacle on the track. If you don't you're not getting maximum plushness from your suspension.

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Wow.. thanks blue deuce!

 

I'll be fiddling with my suspension tonight :D

Will different rear shock settings also effect front shock settings?

the fronts basicly set the rear up to handle whats left of the impact, your fronts should absorb what it can and hand it to the rear...rebound is important in the rear it will slow down the travel from the bottom to the top.....when the bike hits a obsticle the rebound will slow down how fast the shock rises and the compression will slow down how fast the shock comes down from the relaxed position, i allways hit the track to adjust my shocks, or find some terrain that represents what youll ride in......you are just basicly trying to get your quad to track nice and dig in and not hop around......tracking is important for your fronts sometimes i run lots of rebound because the bumps are fast, so i try to time the majority of the hits so i can use rebound to have the shock up for the next impact but not be so slow it cant get up before the next rut, your fronts control your tracking and steering, if your fronts are out of wack the bike will veer and want to feel sqirmish, if its low and planted it will track real straight and feel "dug in" to your line........

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To set the rear spring, you need to set what is called Sag height. This is determined using the following method. And works best with a buddy.

 

1. Set the bike frame up on a stand so that the swing arm is hanging at its lowest point.

2. Choose a convenient place on the bearing carrier near the center line of the axle to measure from.

3. Now choose a convenient spot on your frame to measure to(as close to vertical as possible). Note these two spots for future reference.

4. Take the measurement and write it down.

5. Place the bike on the ground, level is best. Fill the tank with your normal amount of gas when racing, correct oil and water levels as well.

6. Get all your riding gear on and sit on the bike in your normal riding position.

7. Now take another measurement from the same two spots you used before.

8. Subtract the second measurment from the first. This number is your sag. You should set the Sag to somewhere between 3 and 4 inches(75 to 100 mm for the metrically inclined) Adjust it as needed.

 

I believe the rebound and compression adjustments have been discussed. If nothing else play with them at the track when you are practicing to see what the effects are when adjusted to the extremes. (the adjusters are there for you to play with and change to your liking) Record your initial settings so that you can return to them if things get too far out of wack and nothing seems to be working. When making suspension adjustments, adjust only one thing at a time and evaluate it. Making more than one adjustment only confuses things and you will not know what did what. Most importantly keep a logbook of what you change and your thoughts on the change so that you can determine what works best. Also use a stop watch to help in determining if it helped or hindered your laptimes.

 

Wheatchex

 

Here is a good link: ATV SUSPENSION

And another: Suspension

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