banshee04le Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 i finally got my shocks today that i won on ebay. i haven't put them on yet. i was wondering how you tell when they need rebuilt or revalved or whatever. when i compress them, they sound squishy, like there's bubbles in there or something. is this normal? whats a good price for a revalve job? thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 Just stick em on. If your bike feels like a pogo stick then they need to be worked on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee04le Posted January 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 thanks wallrat! i'm going to try that. rock climbers rule! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H300F Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 if they need to be rebuilt then you got ripped because im pretty sure it costs about the price of new shocks to have done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoin39 Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 $200-300 at TCS, they rebuilt my shocks, replaced my springs (too stiff) and revalved for me and it was about $300, so I imagine yours will be cheaper than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erbilabuc Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 compare it to a stock shock setup, the closer the works get to feeling like stock the closer they are in need of a rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee04le Posted January 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 ok, i put them on today. haven't rode it yet but the bike sits about 1.5" lower in the front....thats cool. and they feel alot softer than stock...thats cool too. but when i pushdown on the front end, its so soft that it is like really easy to bottom out. the little rubber bumper stop on the shaft, at the bottom of the shocks will hit the valve body. when this happens, it doesn't look like the upper short spring has compressed at all. is this when the dual rate kicks in or is that it for travel? also, when i compressed them against the ground w/all of my weight, i could move the works shocks about 4". i could only compress the stock about 1/2"...they are stiff as hell. does that sound normal? thanks for all of your help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 if you can push on it and almost make it bottom out then thats a sign they might need a rebuild, might have leaking seals, do they have any signs of shock oil leaking on them ? i can stand on my bumper and bounce and its nowhere near bottoming are these shocks set up for your weight and riding style ? best thing to do is call works and ask for sandie, he knows his stuff and can set you up for way less then pep's or tcs will. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 They are softer than stock, but are you running 2+1 arms??? Those shocks might be valved for stock arms which will throw the valving way too soft.....I can get on my front bumper and jump up and down and come close to bottoming, but don't... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee04le Posted January 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 this sucks. how come i dont see the top spring compress? no evil, i dont see any oil anywhere. and banchetta, they were supposedly set up for 190lb rider on stock arms in the woods. i'm about 205 on stock arms. are they screwed? when does the top spring do anything? and the mounts wern't as fat as the stock...should i shim them up or just let them be able to slide around on the bolt? ahhhhhhhhh............i want my money back! banchetta, you say yours almost bottom when you jump on the front bumper...how much do you weigh. i see there is a schrader valve on the top of them. looks just like a tire valve. anyway to check the pressure there, like on a tire? please help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 Its not that bad, at least the valving is correct for the arms and very close to your weight....the top spring will only compress as much as the shims inside the spring will allow it to.....you can put different size spacers behind the top spring to adjust how much movement the top spring has before the spacers stop it.....They only help the beginning part of travel and if the spring is compressed alot, the the top spring may be already fully compressed to the spacers.....Hope you got all that...I weigh around 190 and when I grab my handlebars from the front of my shee and step onto the front bumper and try to bottom it, I can't....It comes very close and might touch the rubber,but won't bottom...My rear tires will actually start to lift off the ground... If they are too soft, then you can push the top collar down that holds the spring and there is a large circlip that can be moved, so you can adjust the tension of the spring......Do not try this by yourself for the first time....As far as cost for just simple rebuilding or revalving, I don't think it'll be that much....I'd say around $150 for both for revalving....Works is pretty good to deal w/.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee04le Posted January 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 thanks banchetta...i feel better already. can you get quite a bit of adjustment on the preload...cause i need quite a bit, i think. if so, i'll try that. $150 sounds a lot better than $300...thanks bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 I ordered mine straight from Works and they valved them for me....when I got them, I bottomed the front end out hard coming into a hill in 3rd gear, the bumper was throwing dirt up.....I believe there was 3 rings showings on top when I got them....Now I have 7 rings showings, so I adjusted mine quite a bit and they still ride some damn soft, but don't bottom no where near as easy....So yea, you can get quite a bit of adjustment from the preload....I think mine are still only halfway.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee04le Posted January 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 i just checked, and i have 8 grooves visible on top. i might as well try it. whats the best way to compress the spring for this adjustment? if they still bottom at max preload, i guess thats a sure sign that the valving has failed, or can the spring wear out too? oh yeah, and what do you think about those mounts not being as fat as the stock ones. there is slop where they could slide back and forth on the thru-bolt. should i shim this w/washers or something. did you ever know that your my hero? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 i just checked, and i have 8 grooves visible on top.i might as well try it. whats the best way to compress the spring for this adjustment? if they still bottom at max preload, i guess thats a sure sign that the valving has failed, or can the spring wear out too? oh yeah, and what do you think about those mounts not being as fat as the stock ones. there is slop where they could slide back and forth on the thru-bolt. should i shim this w/washers or something. did you ever know that your my hero? sounds like you need a stiffer primary spring......dont f*ck with the gas valves.....if they sound squishy when you push down on them its cause theres oil and air mixed and thats normal......that little bit of slop at the mounts is normal for works also.....like banchetta said its normal for them to almost bottom, if they didnt the top of the ride would suck....a stiffer spring would let you use less preload, the more a progreesive spring can relax, the better it can travel and absorb jolts, if your preloads jacked down to much, your front end will chatter down bumpy stuff, like a stiff truck on a bumpy freeway..over rutty straights your bars should almost appear to be not bounceing yet the tires are.......banchettas tip of jumping on the front end is a good test, your weight coming down on the frame should drop the shocks considerably....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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