BaddBanshee Posted January 7, 2004 Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 I have a 98 Banshee with Toomey T5's, TORs removed, Uni-Filter, & Coolhead (unknown dome sizes). I bought it used about 1 year ago. It was in mint condition and ran perfect under any/all conditions. Now it has grown into a problem of the engine sputters and misses under mid throttle load when warm or hot especially. It will always start easy, idle perfectly, and rev to the moon smoothly at wide open throttle. If you are cruising along and slowly add throttle (to accelerate thru the midrange) it will just start sputtering and slowing down. You can downshift, rev it up, and it will accelerate perfectly thru all remaining gears at WOT. I have already changed the stator with a new Ricky Stator replacement, 3 sets of spark plugs, coil & plug wires (OE), as well as 2 different sets of plug caps. If you pull out the choke part way when the sputtering occurs it does not help the problem, in fact it actually makes it a little worse. The reeds are ok, the carbs are clean, and the compression is the same as when I got it (approx 140psi each). I have also checked for a possible air leak thru crank seal and found no problem there. I believe this is an ignition problem and NOT a fuel/jetting issue. I am left with no place else to go but to buy a CDI box. I dont mind buying CDI IF it fixes the problem, but dont want to spend any more $$ for more parts that it doesn't need. Any input appreciated - sorry for long post but wanted to offer all data I know about it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted January 7, 2004 Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 I'd try going a clip position leaner on the needles and see what happens (move the clip up towards the blunt end)...assuming your air filter is clean & oiled that may cure it completely-and it's free. BTW CDI's are usually go or no go; when mine went out it was like someone hit the kill switch and it never fired again. Some will work intermittantly, but typically it'll run or it won't if the CDI is bad. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaddBanshee Posted January 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2004 Thanks for the response. More info = When the sputtering condition occurs, you can add throttle, (smooth & slow or fast & aggressive, doesnt matter), and the sputtering continues without significant change. When the throttle is opened the needles are raised (along with slide) thereby allowing more fuel in. I find it hard to believe the magnitude of this problem will be affected by needle clip position. I might not have been clear on the severity of the problem here. This is not a funny little flat spot in the powerband, once it gets into the sputtering mode it will not drive thru it no matter what you do unless you drop down 2 gears and rev the engine to 8k and dump the clutch. Also...this problem is almost impossible to duplicate for the first 30 - 45 min of riding, and once it begins doing it you have problem the rest of the day. I, like you, have been mostly of the belief the CDI will be either good or bad, runs or it dont - no in between. There is something very wrong with this bike that eludes me though. I think the cdi has variable timing curves programmed into it depending on rpm. I wonder if something isnt going wrong inside the cdi when hot that screws up the mid range without affecting the low & high speed. Lost & staggering now ---> Soon to be Sitting in the corner Drooling Thanks Again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoin39 Posted January 8, 2004 Report Share Posted January 8, 2004 I agree with benbb, it sounds like needle position, do like he said and if don't work go the other way. It will at least eliminate that possibilty of a jetting condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebloker Posted January 8, 2004 Report Share Posted January 8, 2004 I just got back from Glamis, and I was having a problem similar to yours. It would only happen when it was hot, and it was only on one side of the engine. Well, actually it has always had a problem on that side of the engine; but this time it was much worse. I could kind of make it up China Wall once it was cold, but once it was hot, forget about it. What had happened was I have been missing on of my lower pipe springs on the left hand side of my engine. I took the pipe off right before the trip which ended up pinching the o-ring. This made the problem 5 times as bad. However, it also made finding the problem 5 times as easy, as there was black crap oozing out all over the pipe. I say keep looking for air leaks, or whatnot, as this problem sounds alot like the one that I was having. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Quad Racer Posted January 8, 2004 Report Share Posted January 8, 2004 how clean are you filters???? clean them first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaddBanshee Posted January 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2004 The air filter is clean - this problem does not appear tied to air filter condition as it will happen either dirty of not. Even in dusty conditions and riding with a pack of other quads, my filter stays pretty clean (read that as the Banshee is up FRONT of the pak - yuk yuk - you guys know what I mean Im sure!) I will go ahead and raise the needles (lower the clip) and just see how it does. With no TORS clutter clip adjustment isnt too bad of a job. Thanks All Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted January 8, 2004 Report Share Posted January 8, 2004 You would be surprised what a needle position can do. Also check to see that they aren't bent... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledofthezep Posted January 8, 2004 Report Share Posted January 8, 2004 The little choke tube connecting the carbs...if it was to come off would/could it cause this. I dunno...all my thoughts have already been posted or eliminated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaddBanshee Posted January 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 OK - I adjusted the needles 1 clip position - tube between carbs present, undamaged and connected. Will ride this weekend and see change from needle position. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nighty Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 I had the exact same thing! I had already ordered a ricky stator with new coil (stator plate) and rotor. But i knew for sure my stator was in oki condition. My rotor was damaged but i cant see this beeing the problem. Ater i received my ricky stator the manual said to adjust the pickup coil clearance to almost touch the rotor. My old coil and rotor had a MAJOR gap between. i'm fairly sure this could have been my problem and is your problem aswell. Check the pickup coil. I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 Interesting.....sounds like the needles are too rich and you just adjusted them the wrong way. You want to lower the needles by raising the clip to the blunt end....A lean needle will cause hesitation before powerband, A rich needle will cause it to spit and sputter before powerband and won't clear up until wot.....One clip position will make HUGE changes in performance especially if your too rich..... Thats one suggestion, you said Tors was eliminated, are you talking about the carb tops or the brain of the system?? Or both?? Little black box above the left exhaust?? The pickup coil is a good suggestion from Nighty, I worked on a sled that broke the pull coil and the knot went into the pickup and bent it out...Wouldn't start unless you pulled it like Superman...but also affected lower rpms where the voltage isn't built up enough.... Let us know what you come up w/....Good problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledofthezep Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 Not really related,..but kinda....I went with my cousin & picked up an '88 LT250R yesterday. It did like your shee kinda,...ran fine low but at mid throttle it'd spit, sputter, & bog really bad. If you could get it past the 'dead spot' it would rev to the moon just fine. I raised the needle in the brand new aftermarket carb and that completely fixed the problem. Runs like a champ now. We didn't bother telling the guy we got it from--he couldn't get it running right so that's why he got rid of it. Pretty sad for someone who claims to be an 'ace' with atvs...hehe My shee still spits & sputters & backfires only at WOT, have checked everything numerous times. Has got to be the stator...dunno what else it could be. Going to try a new stator when I get the $$ & hope to hell that's the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 Not really related,..but kinda....I went with my cousin & picked up an '88 LT250R yesterday. It did like your shee kinda,...ran fine low but at mid throttle it'd spit, sputter, & bog really bad. If you could get it past the 'dead spot' it would rev to the moon just fine. I raised the needle in the brand new aftermarket carb and that completely fixed the problem. Runs like a champ now. We didn't bother telling the guy we got it from--he couldn't get it running right so that's why he got rid of it. Pretty sad for someone who claims to be an 'ace' with atvs...hehe My shee still spits & sputters & backfires only at WOT, have checked everything numerous times. Has got to be the stator...dunno what else it could be. Going to try a new stator when I get the $$ & hope to hell that's the problem. AT wot.....tried larger mains??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaddBanshee Posted January 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 Ran this weekend and the needle adjustment did narrow the range of the sputtering but it is still there. (Banchetta - I stated needle adjustment backwards on previous post - I LOWERED the needles - raised clips). The clips are now in the very top position on the needles. All other functions (idle, WOT, etc) feel unchanged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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