tats4life Posted January 5, 2004 Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 All these ideas sound good, but seriously just get a lonestar frame and quit messing around I've been threw 2 LSR pro peg frames. Just cause it cost $2200 doesn't mean it will last one season of nationals. My buddy has had the same roll design frame for 6 years not on single problem out of it. But I can't see spending $10,000 on a roller! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebelbanshee2 Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 All these ideas sound good, but seriously just get a lonestar frame and quit messing around I've been threw 2 LSR pro peg frames. Just cause it cost $2200 doesn't mean it will last one season of nationals. My buddy has had the same roll design frame for 6 years not on single problem out of it. But I can't see spending $10,000 on a roller! but at least the peg bolts didnt strip out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattmans1983 Posted January 14, 2004 Report Share Posted January 14, 2004 Just one more idea. Take two pieces of solid round or a 1"x1" square by however long ( all one piece) and drill them and tap them and weld them on of course after cutting off the old ones. This will give you a real solid piece to bolt to and if you can weld real nice and a little buff wheel to it will make it look real nice. Just an idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted January 14, 2004 Report Share Posted January 14, 2004 I drilled and tapped my frame 7/16"-20 in both holes. Worked like a champ. Haven't stripped yet. Threaded rod is usually a very low grade material. Soft. That would usually strip fairly easy. But, the frame is really soft too. I dunno. Only thing I do know is that the 7/a6 has been holding up for me. And I'm 235 #'s!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebelbanshee2 Posted January 14, 2004 Report Share Posted January 14, 2004 i was in home depot yesterday and saw some stainless all thread 3/8" i think. I would think that would hold up pretty good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted January 15, 2004 Report Share Posted January 15, 2004 Depends what grade stainless. Stainless that I use is around the same PSI rating as about a grade 5 bolt. Most of the hardware on my truck is stainless. Unless it needed grade 8..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted January 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2004 Depends what grade stainless. Stainless that I use is around the same PSI rating as about a grade 5 bolt. Most of the hardware on my truck is stainless. Unless it needed grade 8..... so what should i do boonie, just run some all thread or what?...i need to remove my pegs alot for sprocket changes and i have a -2 set of pegs that i like as well...and only wanna fucck with this mess once if at all possible..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted January 16, 2004 Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 I cut the frame w/ a 4" cutting grinder ( or whachamacallit) where the foot pegs bolt on. I only cut off the 1" circular piece of frame where the bolt goes in...there is a nut on the inside and the welds that held it in place let go on mine... the nut was just bouncing around inside my frame.....anyways, I took an extra thick washer and welded a larger nut to it, then welded the washer to my frame so the nut was inside....Cleaned it up and painted it. Looked better than factory...I had to redrill my foot pegs since I went w/ a larger nut and bolt, but there is a huge difference in size.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted January 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 I cut the frame w/ a 4" cutting grinder ( or whachamacallit) where the foot pegs bolt on. I only cut off the 1" circular piece of frame where the bolt goes in...there is a nut on the inside and the welds that held it in place let go on mine... the nut was just bouncing around inside my frame.....anyways, I took an extra thick washer and welded a larger nut to it, then welded the washer to my frame so the nut was inside....Cleaned it up and painted it. Looked better than factory...I had to redrill my foot pegs since I went w/ a larger nut and bolt, but there is a huge difference in size.... is it a generic bolt banch?...like hardware store stuff or do i need some high tech nut....i wanna be able to change pegs and gearing as needed.....if i grind that all open from underneath as well maybe no more 2 ounces of water pouring outta my frame there also?..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted January 16, 2004 Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 I used grade 8 bolt and nuts...You won't be cutting from underneath, but from the side......so basically instead of having a 3/8" hole for the bolt for the foot peg, you'll grind that side off so there will be a 1" hole....I didn't have any water in mine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003bansheeman350 Posted January 16, 2004 Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 i just had my bolt snap in half and half of the bolt is still in the frame. how do i get it out? i think im ganna get a threaded rod and screw it into the frame so theres studs coming out of the frame and just have the rods threaded and put a bolt on the other side of them and weld them in there so that way i wont have any trouble. but thats after i get that bolt out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted January 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 i just had my bolt snap in half and half of the bolt is still in the frame. how do i get it out? i think im ganna get a threaded rod and screw it into the frame so theres studs coming out of the frame and just have the rods threaded and put a bolt on the other side of them and weld them in there so that way i wont have any trouble. but thats after i get that bolt out? if it snaped and theres some thread showning ill bet vise grips will grab it, if its flush, you might try drilling say 1/4 inch hole and sticking a flat head screw driver across it and tap with a hammer as you try and back it out, might work like an impact and back it out.......those damm bolts blow, the frames so freakin soft...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted January 16, 2004 Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 If some of the threads are showing, then put a nut on and weld it, then unscrew it w/ the nut....If there is no threads, then get an "easy out". Special tool at the hardware store, ask them, they'll know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911 Posted January 16, 2004 Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 i taped 7/16 and that stripped so i tapped 1/2-13 and that broke the nut thrugh the frame and i had to have it welded i think it is because of the nerfs i am going to mount them to the peg this year not the bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cotton eyed Joe Posted January 16, 2004 Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 Deuce, go get yerself a hand full of zip ties. Honestly (Like Nyuk and Boon) I would tap it out to 7/16-20 and use some cap bolts. Its "U" size drill incase you are wandering....well...lemme double check that at work. I use a 7/16-20 on my billet pegs to assemble them, and I'm sure its a U size drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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