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USED TO START FIRST KICK NEED HELP ASAP


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Hello I’ve always went on here to find answers to my problems and now I wanted to find an answer to a specific problem because I’m not sure what this is and I’ve been banging my head around to find out

ive changed out the spark plugs , ignition coil , cleaned and rebuilt the carbs , didn’t rejet it sync or tune anything yet but it should still start I believe , used to start first kick everytime no effort to be honest , then I stopped starting it for a couple days and then it just poof stopped starting 

wont start at all even with choke on or off , but I believe , like the last 3-4 times I tried , if you throw gas through the back of the carbs it’ll start right up nice but not idle , Im just not sure what to do anymore specially cuz im not a mechanic by any means im just good at following directions.

i know i cleaned and rebuilt the carbs good and im thinking might be faulty ignition wiring OR the throttle cable and the little sync screw on the TORS delete caps , i want to do a compression check but the thing is there should be compression because one day it starts up first kick like nothing , idles , runs and literally not even a full 48-72 hours and it stops turning on 

im banging my head around trying to figure this out I need to lol

i want to find the power of this thing and use it , I got it like 2-3 months ago not sure if it’s stock or not but it looks badass and rode it like twice because summer hasn’t been nice lately but yeah hope someone sees this..

Thanks

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Thank you so much and yes I heard that if shooting gas through the back of the carbs means it can be a “fuel delivery” issue , but sorry if this is stupid but what does that actually mean and consist of ?
 

is something clogged or blocked ? Im running 40:1 and I cleaned out the gas tank because it had a bunch of debris and sand in there , possibly from glamis , got most of it out and put in a new OEM fuel petcock , flushed out the fuel lines with carb cleaner and compressed air and of course as said I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs so what else should I be looking out for and test for ? 
 

I got a new motion pro eliminator throttle cable because one side was broken on the bottom screws and got a sync tool as well and was going to check if the reeds were broken as well if they needed replacements because I want this thing to start so bad….

 

But main point is what would be the kind of issues for fuel delivery ? 
 

thank you 

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  When you cleaned and rebuilt the carburetors did you take them apart one at a time? If you took them both apart at the same time, you could have gotten the float bowls mixed up. The way you will know is that the float bowl with what looks like a small brass BB molded into it goes on the carburetor with the choke knob on it. Did you reinstall the rubber hose that goes between the two carburetors that connects the choke circuit together on the carburetors? When putting it back together did you install the carb slides into the right carburetors? It’s easy to get them mixed up and put the wrong slides in the wrong carbs. If you remove the carb slides and look at the slides there is a groove in them that rides on a guide pin down inside the carb body. Then there’s a little white dot on each of the slides. If you look closely at the both carburetor bodies (standing on the kick start side) you should see on each one of the carburetors a small glass window on the carburetor body. When the slides are installed properly you will be able see the little white dots through the little glass window on the side of the carb bodies and that the small cutaways on the carbs slides should be facing towards the rear of the banshee. Also the small white dots on the slides are for syncing the carbs. When you installed the new throttle cable to the TORS units on top of the each of the carburetors there’s 2 nuts on each side 1 is for adjusting/syncing the cable and the other nut is just a locknut. You will have to first adjust the cable until it becomes slightly tight buy watching the slides and when they slightly start to move then don’t adjust anymore. Then to sync the carbs you need to push on the throttle and look at the glass window on carburetor on the right side and when you see the white dot in the glass window that carburetor is synced, but you might have to adjust the cable a little more until the white dot is completely centered in the glass window. Then you can tighten the locknut on that side. Then release the throttle and then check it again and readjust if needed. Then repeat the same process on the left side as you did on the right side. When you see both white dots centered in the glass windows at the same time that means that the carburetors are synced. 

Edited by JerzOutlaw350
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Hey Jerz thank you for the response as well , yes I know about the bowls being switched , the slides being mixed up , and the BB like thing for the choke circuit , the choke tube in between the carbs , I watched out for all that and made sure I didn’t make any of those mistakes , no fuel lines or petcock clogged or anything cleaned all that 

I also know about how to sync the carbs using a few different methods including the one you have recommended to me as well , but I wanted to use the sync tool that’s why I wanted to get it started because it should still start even before I start to sync it , also im not running TORS I got the eliminator cable coming in but someone else already did the elimination kit to this one when I bought it but yes even if I have watched out for all that and went over to double check as well and still only starts if I throw gas through the back what else could it be ?? 

broken reed petals ?

faulty ignition wiring ? (not coil or plugs at all)

im going to double check on the slides and the slack of the wire but still need to find out the specific complication of this thing 

thank you in advance 

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