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Got Nitrous?


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i do!. not installed yet, but its on the way! a wet kit adjustable from

10-75hp. i wouldnt brag about cause its the kind of thing i would like

to keep secret (but i dont think i will be able to hide the bottle). the only

reason i'm posting is because, if any of you have even thought about

putting your bike on the bottle, you need to get a hold of mike weaver

his ebay name is catdaddy1234, his email is scbman1234@hotmail

his phone# is 281-802-1024. this dude is helpful and knowledgable

beyond belief, will work with you on parting out kits if need be, and his pricing

is very reasonable. if you deal with him, i guarantee you will be impressed

at his level of service. his feedback rating is top notch. tell him that the

dude who bought 2-complete banshee kits the other day sent ya!

my friend and i saved $80 ($40 a piece) by buying them both at the

same time and shipping was included...on top of his already reasonable

pricing ;)

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sweet, na you cant really hid the bottol, we have some on my golf cart (propane bottle painted blue with nos sticker that shoots flames) but i have it on display, btu for drag racing if you wanna make some money, find a way to hook it up inside your seat

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based on my research, the wet kit is the way to go. this wet kit

can be installed to inject before the carbs like the boondockers or

after the carbs (after is preferred). it would work fine w/ the 35mm

carb. the difference between the boondockers and the wet kit is

that the wet kit runs a seperate fuelpump to supply the extra gasoline

needed when the nitrous is flowing. this method is preferred because

the precise ratio of fuel and air (no2) can be better controlled because

both are mixed and injected out of the same nozzle. the boondockers

kit supplies the extra needed gasoline by pressurizing your carb fuel bowls,

thus forcing more fuel through your jets. this setup tends to run rich by

design for a better margin of safety in the short run, however the problem

that has been discovered is that this overly rich supply of gasoline can

wash the lubricant right off of your cylinder walls...resulting in premature

wear. this guy sold boondockers until one of his biggest speeed shop customers

discovered this and said F@#k boondockers. also, boondockers design is

limited to around a 20hp boost. the wet kit can be adjusted (run different

nozzle jets) to make as much power as you want or your machine can handle.

i havent gotten much response from the BHQ gurus about running nitrous on the

bansh :unsure: but if any of you guys know of any problems or bad experiences

running no2 i would sure like to hear them...or any good experiences for that

matter. thanks. sorry for the long ass post again.

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So what you are trying to tell everyone is that the Boondockers system that you are referring to is DRY. No fuel pump needed. They carry wet systems as well as NX Express, NOS, and Cold Fusion. The BD dry kit is also somewhat adjustable.

 

I doubt the shop quit carrying a brand due to any problem with the kit probably more because of a bigger name brand with more markup. More Profits.

 

It sounds like you are doing decent in learning about nitrous but you still might want to have someone else plumb and wire it for you. You know and show you the art. Mistakes can be made easy so never use any jet that is unmarked and take your system down once a year to clean religiously. Purge valves are nice to have in your system as well to keep the void fraction low.

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thanks raxen

what can you do to be safe if you dont have a purge valve

(i was thinking that with the short line runs on this application,

i may not need a purge valve...but i dont know) if i purged

before hitting the trail...any idea how long it would be good

before i would need to purge again?

and i did not know about the importance of cleaning...how do you

do it?

thanks bro

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wait a sec., I don't think this one is the same kit you bought, but this kit is only for $300. here it is http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=43977

no, thats a used kit (im sure you know that)

i seen that though...pm'd the guy and he said that his nozzles

were welded into tubes to fit 33-35mm carbs, i was like cant they

be removed so i could mount as i wish? he said no their permanantly

in there. i said...i got a plasma cutter...he said that will probably do

it...then i found this complete new kit for just a few buck more.

wouldnt hurt to bid on that though...looks like everything is there

and you have the right carbs for the setup...i wouldnt give him more

than 250 w/shipping but thats just me

 

im not sure how im going to install the nozzles until i get them but

your single carb setup would probably limit your nozzle location

options somewhat...probably have to tap you cylinder intake runners?

you do have the single carb dont you?... i guess maybe you wouldnt want

to bid on that kit then...all though you could make it work i guess

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Cleaning; Dissasemble the lines, noids, and nozzles. Clean the lines and nozzles with ethyl alc from a local convience store aka 190 Grain. Dissasemble the solenoids and check the plunger for wear and cracks (replace if so). Use compressed air and a cotton cloth to clean the internals of the solenoid.

 

There are no substitutes for a purge valve but you can plumb a small valve off of a three way to make a small purge of the system. Its purpose is a vital one to make sure your lines are clear of a large air mass ahead of the pressurized nitrous.

 

Things to invest in

AN wrench kit

Tubing bender

Jetting kit

Purge kit

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your the man!

do you only have to purge when you change bottles or break a line

or when? i have 12vdc compressed gas solenoids i can get from work

that are used on wire feed welders for shielding gas. do you think i

could T one of those into the line w/ a momentary purge switch to

operate. is there anything else needed for safe purging other than

a valve of some sort T'd into the line?

oh yeah, whats a AN wrench kit?

thanks :)

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All the fittings on braided stainless hoses are of a different class AN, it is just another funny way of having to buy a new toolset as with metric.

 

The bypass around using some many funny fittings; use stainless steel brake line on the system with a tubing bender. It dosen't like quite as nice but is far more durable to run from the solenoids to the nozzles. Then you will need the adapters to go from the stainless line to the nozzle. That is when you contact Earl's. They are a reputatble company with good products.

 

The solenoid you speak of should do the trick but make sure the inlet pressure is correct for the application. Also, you might want to check the actual solenoid volume so you don't waste to much good stuff.

 

I like to purge the my shee, busa, and car everytime I haven't actively engaged the nitrous for 2-3 days. Air has a tendancy to diffuse into the system no matter what you do and nitrous oxide outwards. Higher pressures always want to equilibriate to the lower pressure through diffusion and all of that junk and that is why if you leave the tank open for longer enough without use and come back days later it won't be a full tank any longer.

 

Back to purging, Run the purge lines from the noid to a good place that won't obstruct your driving. It is a cold plume if it hits you directly, held longer enough it will give you a chill then frostbite if held longer. On the banshee the ideal location is new the front a-arms as to direct the fog towards the front brakes under hard use, it makes them more response by far. My other use for the purge system.

 

I will look around, I may still have some diagrams that I made for a few kits I put together for some people.

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thanks man, i really appreciate this.

i was wondering, the kit comes w/all braided lines.

would i be ok using them or what?

the purging on the brakes to cool them kinda confused me.

wouldnt that kinda be a waste of nitrous. if you only need to purge

if the system hasnt been used for a day or two...why would you

purge on the brake...you would probably purge before you ride and

the brakes wouldnt even be hot then (im probably missing something here)

oh yeah, whats a noid?

thanks raxen

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