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Project Stroker


Ayjax

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Hello guys,

Regarding the front suspension and travel, I found the Rock Chromoly A-Arms go for around 150 dollars while the Lonestar pair goes for 1400. The smart thing to do is go with the 90% cheaper option, but what do you guys think? 

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Hello guys,
Regarding the front suspension and travel, I found the Rock Chromoly A-Arms go for around 150 dollars while the Lonestar pair goes for 1400. The smart thing to do is go with the 90% cheaper option, but what do you guys think? 

I think you need to reassess what you’re calling the smart thing to do.


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On 10/30/2023 at 1:00 AM, Ayjax said:

Hello guys,

Regarding the front suspension and travel, I found the Rock Chromoly A-Arms go for around 150 dollars while the Lonestar pair goes for 1400. The smart thing to do is go with the 90% cheaper option, but what do you guys think? 

 

Since when ever has the smart thing to do been to buy the cheapest option?

 

If you're looking to build a complete dune bike, you should figure you'll spend $6-15k

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So far this where were at 

  • 421cc (68mm x 58mm) CPI Serval cylinder plated 
  • Wiseco 573M06800 forged pistons
  • Hi temp piston rings
  • DLC wristpins
  • CIrclips
  • Pro Design billet Cool Head with studs and orings
  • 24cc billet cool head domes
  • Hotrods +4mm crank assembly with rods
  • TZ and Maxload outer main bearings
  • 35mm GENUINE Keihin PWK carbs
  • Billet intake manifolds with boots
  • K&N style pod filters
  • Filter outerwears
  • Throttle cable
  • Wrist pin bearings
  • Cometic Cheetah Cub base gasket
  • ARP 12 pt base nuts
  • Stud extenders
  • Water Jacket plugs
  • Complete gasket kit
  • Complete seal kit
  • Billet clutch basket
  • Clutch kit
  • Clutch lock up - NO COVER
  • Clutch pusher with pancake bearing
  • Billet water pump impeller
  • Water pump bearing
  • V-Force 4 reeds
  • Lightened flywheel
  • NGK spark plugs
  • Cylinder to case dowel pins
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Add 4/1 rims to that. They’ll make a bigger difference than you’ll believe.

You’ll have the engine out and most of the suspension apart, may as well cut the extra tabs off the frame and gusset it and have it powdered. I can help you out on cleaning the frame up if you can get it to me in Ohio.

Other than that, a cut harness and a good set of nerfs and you’ll be getting close to a really nice build.


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On 11/5/2023 at 3:42 PM, tfaith08 said:

Add 4/1 rims to that. They’ll make a bigger difference than you’ll believe.

You’ll have the engine out and most of the suspension apart, may as well cut the extra tabs off the frame and gusset it and have it powdered. I can help you out on cleaning the frame up if you can get it to me in Ohio.

Other than that, a cut harness and a good set of nerfs and you’ll be getting close to a really nice build.


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I already bought a set of beadlock wheels from albaracing, I got them in factory size. Lets see how it goes might get another set. 

I wanted to keep it as stock as possible (frame) I heard about this new Full Plastics division and I think thats what Im aiming for, not sure if I can enter it with a 4 mil, well have to wait and see when the races start. 

I wanted to get all the frame powder coated black but unfortunately thats going to add another 10 days of work on the bike, apparently all the shops are full at this time of year. So Im going to keep that on hold till the summer. 

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You can wait to see how it goes or I can tell you. It’s a drastic difference if you’re going to be pushing it any at all.

With 20” tires, it cuts feedback by around 85% depending on the tire pressure you run at. It’s fairly easy to calculate.

Stock offset works best with around 24” tires.


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On 11/7/2023 at 11:44 PM, SKEETER said:

Send the wheels back or change order to 4/1 wheels ^^

I dont think I can send them back, I already opened them up and put the tires on, was so excited couldnt wait for the bike to come back from the shop. Ill probably order another set later on this season. 

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