Banshee starting up then dying

[CapoCola]

I picked up a banshee that was sitting for a while. It’s getting good spark and starts up right away but then dyes after a second or two. I pulled the pod filters off to check what was going on in the carbs and I noticed that the left side carburetor was wet with fuel and spitting out fuel from a cut line underneath that goes to the atmosphere while the right side was completely dry inside and through the line beneath it. I cleaned the carburetors previously but did not change out whatever random jetting was probably inside of each carb because by the look of the Shee it was definitely abused and rode hard at one point in its life. Also at one point I got it to stay on but it revved out like crazy and I came to find out the slides in the carburetor are not sitting correctly. After giving it throttle, they are rotating inside the carbs and not coming back down to the bottom past the idle screw and just sitting on top of it. TORS system is deleted from the top of the carbs obviously. Any help is appreciated! 

Edited September 20, 2022 by CapoCola

[CapoCola]

Yes that boost bottle will be in the trash soon….

[Metal_man_Rob]

Ok so...
You need to know how everything else is from the bottom up.
Don't worry about the carbs yet.
Take those off and that boost bottle. Keep the carbs, chuck the boost bottle. They are junk and detrimental to the integrity of your carb boots.
Buy a used crossover tube on ebay.
Do a compression test and a leakdown test. You need to check the compression of both cylinders.
There are leakdown tests on ebay made by South Texas Banshee. Top Notch. And inexpensive.
Also... South Texas Banshee on YouTube is going to be a huge resource if you are new to the banshee. He has videos from simple carb cleaning to full teardown and rebuilds. Check him out. He also has videos on testing electronics, doing leakdown tests, compression tests, rebuilds, etc. And he is a solid dude. He makes the best wiring harnesses out there and my favorite leak down tester I've ever used. So definitely check him out.

Before you rebuild the carbs and tune them as well as synchronize them, you need to be certain you don't have air leaks from bad gaskets, bad seals, etc.
Then you need to know your compression is decent. 120-130 is stock and seems people like to rebuild around 110. I'll run it til it won't start. That's just me.
You have solid spark so you already have one thing working for you.

It is all easy. Trust me... check out South Texas Banshee on YouTube and follow him on Facebook. Also check out BansheeHQ on Facebook. This forum is a ghost town, for some reason.

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[375hp banshees]

22 hours ago, CapoCola said:

I picked up a banshee that was sitting for a while. It’s getting good spark and starts up right away but then dyes after a second or two. I pulled the pod filters off to check what was going on in the carbs and I noticed that the left side carburetor was wet with fuel and spitting out fuel from a cut line underneath that goes to the atmosphere while the right side was completely dry inside and through the line beneath it. I cleaned the carburetors previously but did not change out whatever random jetting was probably inside of each carb because by the look of the Shee it was definitely abused and rode hard at one point in its life. Also at one point I got it to stay on but it revved out like crazy and I came to find out the slides in the carburetor are not sitting correctly. After giving it throttle, they are rotating inside the carbs and not coming back down to the bottom past the idle screw and just sitting on top of it. TORS system is deleted from the top of the carbs obviously. Any help is appreciated! 

 

"from a cut line underneath that goes to the atmosphere"

Over flow line?

Sounds like one carb is flooding and one is not getting fuel.

I'd id go  through the carbs again.  make sure slides arent sticking, fuel fills both carbs &  fuel shuts off, when floats rise it spec hight & go from there. 

[CapoCola]

Compression and leak down test are good. Compression was on the lower end around the 110 but I’m not rebuilding the top end until I get some other projects done lol and leak down held at that 6psi and only dropped a little throughout the 5mins. Just went through the carbs again and put in 310 mains, and 30 pilot to begin, new needles (old ones were bent) with the clip in the middle. Only thing I could see being a problem is going to be the needle seat O ring looked a little pinched on the flooded carb but of course the kit didn’t come with it :)! My main issue at the moment is my right side carb slide is rotating inside of the carb when giving throttle… any ideas how to fix that? 

[CapoCola]

Selling my boost bottle for $30 on eBay if anyone wants it bahahaha

[pk31337]

Compression and leak down test are good. Compression was on the lower end around the 110 but I’m not rebuilding the top end until I get some other projects done lol and leak down held at that 6psi and only dropped a little throughout the 5mins. Just went through the carbs again and put in 310 mains, and 30 pilot to begin, new needles (old ones were bent) with the clip in the middle. Only thing I could see being a problem is going to be the needle seat O ring looked a little pinched on the flooded carb but of course the kit didn’t come with it ! My main issue at the moment is my right side carb slide is rotating inside of the carb when giving throttle… any ideas how to fix that? 

Watch South Texas banshee video on rebuilding carbs. I don't think it's been assembled correctly. That side should not be turning as it's going up and down.

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