itsmyforte Posted December 16, 2003 Report Posted December 16, 2003 first let me say this quad has not ran since i aquired it sunday. i am putting a whole new wiring harness and cdi, coil, blah, blah, blah.... so i am pretty much cleaning the shit out of this quad and getting it prepped before i start it. it has stock carbs minus the TORS. stock or replacement reeds in stock cage, T5 full system, boost bottle, stock airbox setup with new Twin Air filter. the pilots are 25, and mains say 270. anyway i can tell if these are dynojet or stockers. also how can i tell if the needle is stock or aftermarket? dunno how it ran before because it didn't run when it was purchased. i have the carbs spotless and am now ready to get a ballpark starting point for jetting. i am in central indiana, but not sure what my elevation is? any help is appreciated. Quote
spoin39 Posted December 16, 2003 Report Posted December 16, 2003 I live in Indiana too so I can probably help, I have T-6's but just switched from T-5's. Put in a 280 main, put your needle on the 3rd notch (count up from pointed end) leave the stock pilot in (25) and turn your air screw 2-1/2 turns out from all the way in. Also be sure to set your floats while you're in there. Also stock needles will ccome out of the needle hole in carb when throttle is wide open, aftermarket needles don't. Hope this helps! Quote
BenBB Posted December 16, 2003 Report Posted December 16, 2003 I agree with spoin39, if you're gonna keep the lid on the airbox. If not I'd start a little richer on the mains, like 290 or 300 and work your way down. BTW the stock needles have "5N7" stamped on them. Quote
itsmyforte Posted December 16, 2003 Author Report Posted December 16, 2003 forgot to mention i don't have an airbox lid so it will be open, also i now believe the pipes are a T3, not T5. Quote
spoin39 Posted December 18, 2003 Report Posted December 18, 2003 Then I would check with toomey if you want to get it right the first time. I don't know what jetting requirements are for the T3's, unless you don't mind the trial and error method. You could start with what ben and I said but it would only be a guess. Quote
boonman Posted December 18, 2003 Report Posted December 18, 2003 i don't have an airbox lid So, with your stock airbox setup with new Twin Air filter the new twin air will fall out. Do they even make twin air filters for a shee? In order to take the lid off, you need to have a pro-flow plate or other device to clamp the filter to. The lid holds the factory filter setup in place. it is junk anyways, replace it immediately. Quote
Banchetta Posted December 18, 2003 Report Posted December 18, 2003 I agree w/ Boony, the stock flange will allow sand to get by...get the aluminum aftermarket flange or silicon the stock one in and bolt it to the air box....W/ the lid off, I'd start w/ a 300 main jet and do a wot test in 6th gear and check your plugs.... Quote
itsmyforte Posted December 20, 2003 Author Report Posted December 20, 2003 i should look before i speak doh! ok the airbox has been cut so that it accepts the slip on filter and not the cone shape so the twin air filte i purchased was useless. i think it has a toomey air filter and toomey needles in the carbs(i think, there is no markings on them) i am now 99% sure the head pipes are not T3 but stock so it appears it just has slip-on toomeys. i set it up with clip on 3rd from pointy end, 25 pilots, and 280 mains. this thing starts the first or second kick and i don't even use the choke! it hauls ass! seems to be a little boggy in high mid range probably due to the bigger main jet. i think if i put on a new full system it would be just right. btw i am leaning towards a Paul Turner pipe midrange series (see other thread) Quote
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