seansy007 Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 I just had a bunch of stuff powdered a couple months ago and now starting to go back together, I removed the powder on ground contacts for the frame along with the mounting surface for the rotors. question is should I do the wheel hub surface as well? and the rear drive sprocket, brake hub etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metal_man_Rob Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 Do you have any angle or die grinders? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caleb90 Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 i wouldnt have removed the paint for the grounding points. as it will have ground via the bolt threaded in a clean clear bolt hole. if the hub was powered where the rotor has a press over it then yes remove that. what do you mean by wheel and brake hubs? were the splines coated? if so just clean off the back sides where they make contact with the axle shoulder, then knock em on with a hammer and a block of wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seansy007 Posted March 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 1 hour ago, Metal_man_Rob said: Do you have any angle or die grinders? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk everything you could ever think of for tooling we run a mobile mechanic shop. 9 minutes ago, caleb90 said: i wouldnt have removed the paint for the grounding points. as it will have ground via the bolt threaded in a clean clear bolt hole. if the hub was powered where the rotor has a press over it then yes remove that. what do you mean by wheel and brake hubs? were the splines coated? if so just clean off the back sides where they make contact with the axle shoulder, then knock em on with a hammer and a block of wood I hate Elec problems so when I can I make sure it works 100%. splines nor threads were coated just the wheel and rotor/sprocket mounting surfaces. main reason i ask for the hub is i mounted my new wheels and tires on the front and they wobbled bad which i know everything was strait when i took it off and i noticed the powder is keeping stuff from lining up right. i also know that on like the rotor/sprocket the stuff will eventually crumble and come off thus making everything loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metal_man_Rob Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 For any threads, the powder coat shop should have a chemical to remove the coat. Actually works awesome. I would use a right angle die grinder with a finer grit pad or red 3M pads and smooth it out with a 320 white or blue stone with a die grinder. If you have a dresser for the stone, that’s perfect.I just always worry about rust or corrosion when have to grind so I try to get it as smooth as possible.I’d use a die (thread die) to remove any residual from outer threads and a tap to remove residual from inner threads.Inner threads are harder because the powder coat will jam between the root of the inner threads and peak of the outer on the tap and broken taps suck. If you use transmission fluid as a tapping oil, that will help. I’m sure there are a million ways to do what you need done but this is what has worked for me in the past. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seansy007 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 19 minutes ago, Metal_man_Rob said: For any threads, the powder coat shop should have a chemical to remove the coat. Actually works awesome. I would use a right angle die grinder with a finer grit pad or red 3M pads and smooth it out with a 320 white or blue stone with a die grinder. If you have a dresser for the stone, that’s perfect. I just always worry about rust or corrosion when have to grind so I try to get it as smooth as possible. I’d use a die (thread die) to remove any residual from outer threads and a tap to remove residual from inner threads. Inner threads are harder because the powder coat will jam between the root of the inner threads and peak of the outer on the tap and broken taps suck. If you use transmission fluid as a tapping oil, that will help. I’m sure there are a million ways to do what you need done but this is what has worked for me in the past. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk good to know they did a great job on all the holes and have only had 1 or 2 that had a tiny bit of pc in/on them. just wanted to make sure im not the only one removing powder from stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 1 hour ago, caleb90 said: it will have ground via the bolt threaded in a clean clear bolt hole. You would think so, but is not consistently the case. This info comes after years of chasing electrical gremlins in all sorts of vehicles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caleb90 Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 On 3/22/2021 at 7:41 PM, seansy007 said: everything you could ever think of for tooling we run a mobile mechanic shop. I hate Elec problems so when I can I make sure it works 100%. splines nor threads were coated just the wheel and rotor/sprocket mounting surfaces. main reason i ask for the hub is i mounted my new wheels and tires on the front and they wobbled bad which i know everything was strait when i took it off and i noticed the powder is keeping stuff from lining up right. i also know that on like the rotor/sprocket the stuff will eventually crumble and come off thus making everything loose. my hubs warped when i had them powder coated. ended up having to buy new ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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