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Carb clean/TORS delete advice...


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I need to clean the carbs and figured I might as well tackle a few items while i am doing so.

I ended up buying the rebuilt kits for the carbs. Choke plunger, tors delete kit and, just because I hate waiting, I got some reed valves as well. They are v force 4s, if that means anything. I have plenty of carb jets, needles, etc. I also grabbed a pair of 280 mains and 300 mains, just in case.

Anything I should watch out for while I am in there? Can the v force reeds be used as a replacement to stock or do I need a bunch of other mods to use those? I am not trying to gain more power or drag race or anything. Just want everything working properly for a mix of riding circumstances (trails, fields, messing around and whatever).

The exhaust is a toomy T5 full exhaust, has the k&n single filter (pro design) kit and I will keep the lid on. I think that covers it. Oh, top end was done about 100 hours of run time ago but it sat in a pole barn for a long time and wasn't ridden a lot for a few years prior to the pole barn.

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14 minutes ago, SKEETER said:

I'm assuming you only bought replacement reed pedals?  Or was it the kit with cages?  27.5 pilots, 310 mains, middle clip on needle, is a good reliable starting point. 

 I ordered the whole system with cages and everything.

Edited by Metal_man_Rob
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2 minutes ago, SKEETER said:

Then it's just bolt on and go.  

awesome, thanks. I wasn't expecting to need any bigger than a 300 main so I am ordering a jet kit now. I have to do it all quick before my sister-wife finds out how much i am spending

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Delete kit come with cable?

Do 1  carb at a time or make sure you don't mix up bowls & slides. shave down the end of the boss a little, you will be drilling, for idle screw holes, or it might not hit the slides enough to get a desired idle rpm.

Put choke tube back on before firing it up.

Look at piston #'s while you have the reeds out.

iirc, some reeds require boot modifications to fit. Inspect boots for dry rot & do a leakdown test before running for piece of mind & intake gaskets tend to leak.

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Delete kit come with cable?
Do 1  carb at a time or make sure you don't mix up bowls & slides. shave down the end of the boss a little, you will be drilling, for idle screw holes, or it might not hit the slides enough to get a desired idle rpm.
Put choke tube back on before firing it up.
Look at piston #'s while you have the reeds out.
iirc, some reeds require boot modifications to fit. Inspect boots for dry rot & do a leakdown test before running for piece of mind & intake gaskets tend to leak.

Thank you. And yeah the tors delete has the cables, caps, etc. I also grabbed a sync tool. And new tubing, etc. last thing I want is to get it all back together only to realize I missed something way back in the hour and a half ago area. Haha.
I won’t really be able to get any solid plug chops til it warms up outside but I can do enough to get close.


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Stick a broom stick or something in the carb before drilling so you don't hit the opposite side when the bit goes through. Drill carefully as it is stupid soft material and the bit will run through it lickity split. I've seen someone actually bust a bit or tap off in the hole but can't for the life me see how.

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Stick a broom stick or something in the carb before drilling so you don't hit the opposite side when the bit goes through. Drill carefully as it is stupid soft material and the bit will run through it lickity split. I've seen someone actually bust a bit or tap off in the hole but can't for the life me see how.

I’m going to bring the to work and do it in a Bridgeport mill. I’m a tool and die maker so if I break a tap in this cast, I will be sure to pay someone to throat punch me for doing so. Haha.
Work is a good place for the carb stuff anyway because we have a ultrasonic wash tanks. But seriously, thanks for the advice. I’ll set a stop so as not to drill into the other side of the bore


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If your running the stock intake boots they will need to be modified to run v force reeds, not a big deal tho.

Also something to keep in mind, the jets included in those kits may not be the same as what’s in your carbs, if they are not the same do not use them

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Oh I bought the kits for the gaskets, etc. I bought the toomey needle (and main jets) but more for the needle. I havn't opened the carbs yet but I have a lot of mikuni pilots and main jets from old bikes. I am guessing I will open the carbs to find 310s or bigger in there but who knows. I did run a couple of chops before I started tearing into it and it was running rich AF and the air screws were out over three turns.

The boot mods have me a little curious. Will I need different boots or just need to modify the existing boots? The boots on there are actually solid so if I don't have to buy them, that would be great.

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Ok cool I get you, my stock carbs are long gone so I’m no help to you on jetting stockers, but don’t go changing jets and needles all at once, do one at a time and don’t drop a bunch of sizes at once. It might take a few tries but you’ll get there.

 You don’t have to buy new boots, the stock boots have projections kinda like  suffers on them, you just have to cut those off flush and it will all bolt up.

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Oh awesome. And yeah, I usually try to creep up on jet sizes. Also broke down and bought another sync tool. I have one I made a while back for 4 carb racks but for CV carbs. Wont work with these direct slides. I think thats what these carbs are. The idle adjustment looks like it is through the cable on these goofy TORS units?

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Yes, the big screw or knob (depending on the year) on top the TORS box is the idle adjustment.
Also, pilot jets are Banshee specific, not all Mikunis are the same.

Oh man thanks! Haha. I am just going to grab a jet kit then. That would have been frustrating to find out the hard way


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