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caleb90

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all right when i do my build this winter i am doing new a arms and shocks. i planned on doing alba long travel a arms but after speaking with Works shocks yesterday im not sure.. basicly they said the frame would bottom out before i used all the stroke length on a LT set up. n that my best best would be stock length a arms and shocks.. dosnt seem right

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all right when i do my build this winter i am doing new a arms and shocks. i planned on doing alba long travel a arms but after speaking with Works shocks yesterday im not sure.. basicly they said the frame would bottom out before i used all the stroke length on a LT set up. n that my best best would be stock length a arms and shocks.. dosnt seem right

Alba uses Chinese stuff branded as American.

You match shocks to the chassis, arms, and tires. Not the other way around.

What is the shock length now?

What is your budget?


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10 hours ago, tfaith08 said:


Alba uses Chinese stuff branded as American.

You match shocks to the chassis, arms, and tires. Not the other way around.

What is the shock length now?

What is your budget?


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currently every thing is stock, im not going to be racing mx or hair scrambles. just doing a full build as a play toy, mostly be running seasonal roads with it. i have 4 grand set aside for the entire build, from motor to paint and suspension

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The cheapest long travel setup I would recommend is also the first one I would recommend to anyone. Fireball +3+1 and any used top tier shock.

Next step after arms is tire and rim setup installed at the pressure you plan to run. Whatever you go with, use 4/1 rims.

Then you can measure for shock length requirements.

For shocks, buy used and have them rebuilt.


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talked to alba about there a arms and how the bushings wear out. i asked if they made bronze bushings and they dont. they said they only have problems with the them, with people racing mx. i doubt thats true, trying to justify spending the extra coin for top notch componets when i really wont be utilizing them fully

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talked to alba about there a arms and how the bushings wear out. i asked if they made bronze bushings and they dont. they said they only have problems with the them, with people racing mx. i doubt thats true, trying to justify spending the extra coin for top notch componets when i really wont be utilizing them fully

I wouldn’t trust alba with a god damn swiffer wet jet, much less a long travel suspension setup.


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1 hour ago, DDQ said:

Don't get bogged down in the chassis, tires, tire pressure stuff. We are not reinventing the wheel here. This is a stock banshee frame. 

It is worth it to run the longest shocks possible in a LT setup because the benefit is the valving, not the wheel travel. 

Yes, works was correct when they said the frame will hit dirt before the shocks bottom out. It does not matter if you have 19" front tires or 23" front tires. However, there is an easy fix which is putting shims in the shock under the bump stops. That is what Axis did for me after we had many conversations. Get the fireball LT a-arms and buy some used long travel shocks, 18.5-19.25" and send them off to be built for you and have shims added.

The alba LT setup uses much shorter shocks.

Also, I thought works was out of business. You spoke to works?

yes , the father passed away. they went out of buisness then im assuming the kids took it over. only way i found them was via google. only reason i searched them was because i remember them being top notch back in the 90s and early 2000's

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8 minutes ago, DDQ said:

They were never top notch. Works was always an entry level suspension upgrade, nowhere near the class of axis, ohlins, pep, tcs, elka. But, they were still huge leaps better than oem suspension. I bent two works front shocks shafts when I first started riding.

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top notch as in i never was a racer nor wanted to be. but worked good over stock at a good price for a weekend warrior

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if i were to go the fireball a arm route, id prob pick up a used set of shocks off a polaris outlaw. they are 18.5 center to center

Well...

Just know that the valving will probably be way off.

Take it one step at a time. Before you powder the chassis, there are a lot of things I would recommend doing but a bare minimum is getting the stem hoop and lower stem mount gusseted. While you’re at it, replacing the stock stamped crossmember up front behind the bumper with a chromoly tube is a nice cosmetic upgrade and basically free if you’re already doing that other stuff.

Cut all the tabs off.

The unnecessary but really nice stuff is a lowered subframe, altered geometry, no-link conversion, but you can absolutely get by without these things.


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