Oilsmoke Posted December 14, 2003 Report Share Posted December 14, 2003 I have removed my star and plan on taking it to work so my machinists friend can mod it for me. What size cutter radius on neutral for the back cut? Will .500" work? Depth about 75% of it's thickness? And what radius do you use to cut the star point down and how much off the point? Is there any more info I could use? Thx for any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BdBanshee Posted December 14, 2003 Report Share Posted December 14, 2003 I have the info you want in my toolbox in the shop. I will get them and post it tomorrow. You will need to have a carbide 1/2" End Mill to recut the nuetral backcut. I will also post a pic of what a finished one looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oilsmoke Posted December 15, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2003 Thx for the end mill size BDBanshee I will look forward to tommorrow post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meat Posted December 15, 2003 Report Share Posted December 15, 2003 Heres a fuzzy pic of a modded star compared to a stock one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted December 15, 2003 Report Share Posted December 15, 2003 Now, be sure you do the backcut BEFORE you round off the edges. 1/2" carbide endmill is REQUIRED. The star is Hardened. a HSS mill will NOT work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oilsmoke Posted December 15, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2003 Boonman How much of a cut .040 or .030 for the shifter wheel to fall in? I am talking about the backcut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotts96fast Posted December 16, 2003 Report Share Posted December 16, 2003 I have removed my star and plan on taking it to work so my machinists friend can mod it for me.What size cutter radius on neutral for the back cut? Will .500" work? Depth about 75% of it's thickness? And what radius do you use to cut the star point down and how much off the point? Is there any more info I could use? Thx for any input. What does this mod do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oilsmoke Posted December 16, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2003 Shifter star mod makes for a smoother, faster shifting with less foot presure and easyer to find netural Banshee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meat Posted December 16, 2003 Report Share Posted December 16, 2003 (edited) Hey guys I tired modding my Rz's shift star on the belt sander at work. I didnt grind the lobes down as far as boon's and Bd. I made sure I got all the the lobes the same size, the star looks great and symetrical, its just that I didnt grind the lobes down as far. Do you see me having any problems ? I havent used it yet of course. I can post a pic later. Well its later and here's that pic of the star i ground down. Edited December 16, 2003 by Meat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted December 16, 2003 Report Share Posted December 16, 2003 You won't have any problems Meat. However, you could grind them down a little more if you wanted to. The wheel dits down in the "groove" pretty far. you should be able to see the marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BdBanshee Posted December 16, 2003 Report Share Posted December 16, 2003 I agree, you won't have any problems. It will work better than stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted December 17, 2003 Report Share Posted December 17, 2003 Boonman Did you cut the complete Star in One round radius Or each lobe separate? Each lobe is done seperate. And BDBashee your style look like it would be smooth because of the transition from equal size radius off the tangent point. Is this a good assumption? I can say from my own personal experience that radiusing the "tits" as BD has done will do nothing except hamper shifting a little more. Think about it this way: say you are in second gear, your small bearing, (which can be found in meats pic, that holds the shift drum in place, which holds the tranny in gear, which is the sole purpose of the shift star) sits in the "saddle" of the shift star. The contact points are low in the saddle. This can be evidenced by either looking at the star on your bike, or looking at it off the bike and witnessing the wear marks in the aforementioned saddle. now, the higher the "tits" on the star, the more the small bearing has to move to let you shift to the next gear. As long as you have a properly functioning transmission, cutting the "tits' as low as possible, and making a flatter profile on them has proven in my own personal findings to create a better shift, and getting it into the next gear a little quicker. Once again, these are my own personal opinions, take them for what it's worth to you....... But, like BD also mentioned, the neutral mod, HAS to be done in a machine shop. Otherwise, you risk extreme screw up and may have to get a new star because you will never find neuttral again.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BdBanshee Posted December 18, 2003 Report Share Posted December 18, 2003 Had some time in between flywheels today so I finished up the shift star. Here are a couple of pics showing the backcut neutral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oilsmoke Posted December 19, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2003 Thx for that measurment On the Back cut It helped alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 Each lobe is done seperate. I am retracting that statement. I made a different jig today. From now on, I will be doing the star in a lathe. (The neutral mod must still be done in a mill however) In which I bolt them on the jig, (basically a shaft with an end on it like the shift drum) and turn the protrusions off of the star. It makes it somewhat easier to do for me. The star(s) will function in the same manner as before, except that I will be able to do them much easier. And I took a few more dollars off the price because of this. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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