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BANSHEE HEADLIGHTS


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So I just recently bought a banshee but the headlights were the only things that was not set up. The guy had taken the toggle switch off and told me that he was having some problems with the led bulbs that he was putting in. One of them is very dim to the point where you can see a little light coming from the bulb and the other one on the left side doesn’t come on at all. I’m not sure if my wiring is incorrect, I need new bulbs, or a new stator.

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1 hour ago, 375hp banshees said:

Put a meter on the socket & if it's good put ac bulbs back in it. most leds wont last with ac ( Unless it's DC converted) then check with meter & put leds in if v's are good

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I don’t believe he DC converted it which might be the problem. What should the voltage tester be reading on the socket? I’ve never done too much with stators so I’m still learning how it all works.  
 

Also, I don’t have the stock bulbs for it anymore so what could be the brightest/best ones I can get that will work with AC?

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2 hours ago, 375hp banshees said:

11.5@ 2500 rpm, up to 16.3 @8,000 ( if above 16.3 reg. is bad).
you can unplug it & check@ plug black as neg. Then yellow & green are hi/low b+

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Okay I will give it a shot. Will xenon lights work with the stock AC current or should I stick with stock bulbs without converting to DC?

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I would really like to do the LED lights but I am lost as to what to do to get them to work. I wired up both headlights to the stator but do I need a rectifier (DC current) to get them to work or will AC work? I am getting mixed responses when I research this. 

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The most common way is float stator ground & get reg./rec. With or with out a battery. if you go led w/ ac , it's hit or miss ( more miss) if they will work or work for very long... as you can see by what you have now

Or install a battery & charge it with a wall charger & isolate lights to just battery

 

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4 hours ago, 375hp banshees said:

The most common way is float stator ground & get reg./rec. With or with out a battery. if you go led w/ ac , it's hit or miss ( more miss) if they will work or work for very long... as you can see by what you have now

Or install a battery & charge it with a wall charger & isolate lights to just battery

 

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Alright so this evening I hooked up the meter and did not get any reading off of the sockets. I have attached a link showing my wiring. (White wire is with the yellow which is positive and black is negative.) I also tested bare wire up by the lights and didn’t get a reading either. (I tapped into the harness back by the kick.) I also asked the guy I bought it from and he said that there was no voltage regulator on it so do I need one of those?

At this point do I need to start checking wires farther back? And what am I supposed to set my tester to so that I’m sure?

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/smVNUr8

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Oh they were cut way back at the stator?  the yellow (yellow w/ red) depending on year, goes to reg. & T's up front to power up the switch.

According to clymer DCV(but ive seen misprints) just try it on ac & dc ...with it running of course 

If nothings good, cut &  ohm y or y/r & black , it should be between .26-.38 ohms...not running, cold

Yes you need a regulator & seal up those butt connectors!

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1 hour ago, 375hp banshees said:

Oh they were cut way back at the stator?  the yellow (yellow w/ red) depending on year, goes to reg. & T's up front to power up the switch.

According to clymer DCV(but ive seen misprints) just try it on ac & dc ...with it running of course 

If nothings good, cut &  ohm y or y/r & black , it should be between .26-.38 ohms...not running, cold

Yes you need a regulator & seal up those butt connectors!


LOL yup I didn’t want to seal them up until I got it working so that I didn’t waste tape/wrap. 
 

I am not sure what you mean by Ts in the front but I don’t plan on using a switch so do I need those? Also what kind of regulator do I need and where do I hook it up? Could you send me a link for a regulator and some bulbs that would work? 


also if I don’t have a regulator, shouldn’t I still be getting volts to the socket? I just think it’s weird that I’m not getting a reading at all.

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Yes, you need power @stator lighting output; y & bk; before going any farther, ohm if not.
Yes, Reg. Goes on the yellow wire and also "T"'s to switch, or in your case to lights directly (hot), & they'll be on all the time.
Yes, Bulbs will blow if no reg.
-Factory regulator ( make sure it's grounded good)
-12v 30w bulbs


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20 hours ago, 375hp banshees said:

https://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/133650-banshee-electrical-faq/

Schematic in beginning... if using tapatalk Scroll ALL the way to beginning

 

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Awesome! Thank you for the help. I ended up being able to get 11-23 volts to the front left socket but nothing to the right one. All of the wires are hot so it is looking like I will just have to replace the front right socket, and get the voltage regulator. 

My guess is that since the voltage is very irregular, it probably blew my led bulbs? The bulbs are also 55 watts so I am guessing the stator wouldn't have been able to power them as is since it is stock. It's just looking like the guy didn't do his research about the LEDs and how to wire them up. 

Now the voltage regulator just has to tap into both of the yellow wires going to the lights correct? And I just have to ground the voltage regulator to a good ground.

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Leds usually have incandescent watt equivalent so you might be looking @ that?
take the yellow wire coming from the stator & splice ("T") in two wires to it .1 wire usually goes back to reg. that is factory located under the seat on frame iirc.
then you just use other new "T'd" wire & run up front . then splice (T) it to L & R socket for hot.
But the chances of led working are not good...you can try it since you already have them but again a.c. & leds arent compatible

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