375hp banshees Posted April 8, 2020 Report Posted April 8, 2020 Might just be the oko's iirc they have a bad rep. ? Quote
13B-RX3 Posted April 8, 2020 Author Report Posted April 8, 2020 Might just be the oko's iirc they have a bad rep. ?I guess anything is possible, but I don't see how, at wot it's basically a jet holder. Maybe I'm missing something? The midrange and idle are flawless, it's just full throttle.Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Quote
375hp banshees Posted April 9, 2020 Report Posted April 9, 2020 I've just heard jetting is all over the board and they run the bowls dry quickly. Just off the top of my head. Some people have investigated it & modified them to work, but most shy away from them...fyi Quote
SKEETER Posted April 9, 2020 Report Posted April 9, 2020 Those carbs are junk, and your problem ain't goin away till they do. Quote
13B-RX3 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Posted April 9, 2020 Shit. Not in the cards to buy new carbs right now. I just don't understand it's getting richer with jet changes, i can feel it. The smoke ring will just not getting any wider, just darker. Thanks everyone for their input so far. Quote
SKEETER Posted April 9, 2020 Report Posted April 9, 2020 Any local banshee guys that might have carbs for you to try , and see if it's the issue? Quote
375hp banshees Posted April 9, 2020 Report Posted April 9, 2020 I'd think it'd be worse in a rd than a quad, running bowls dry ! i'd be careful, and / or some were drilling out inlet ( dont think that could be more restrictive than @ needle) but... Quote
13B-RX3 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Posted April 9, 2020 I'd think it'd be worse in a rd than a quad, running bowls dry ! i'd be careful, and / or some were drilling out inlet ( dont think that could be more restrictive than @ needle) but...I ran across a thread that have all the dimensions of the keihin and they are the same on these carbs. Needle passage, holes under needles, etc. I guess they are slowly making "improvements". I honestly don't think it's running out of fuel. I get the same results weather it's a 1-3 chop, or on the shift light in 6th. It never falls on its face like it's ruining out of fuel, it just keeps going till you let off or hit the rev limiter. Had y'all not known what the plugs came out of, what's your opinion of the last plugs I posted (168/172)?Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Quote
Stingray Posted April 9, 2020 Report Posted April 9, 2020 I use a digital caliper for measuring, harbor freight one will do. Until you main is correct make sure your needle is in the middle it is the last circuit you tune. My Procedure is to set idol Circuit first making sure that it is not too fat or too lean in the bottom and second I just the top end because the mid range is a combination of the idle circuit in the top and circuit Does your carburetor have a power jet on it on the top on the back? They usually have a hose going from the bowl to that jet. 1 Quote
Stingray Posted April 9, 2020 Report Posted April 9, 2020 If so take off your filters and make sure the slides are going all the way up on both sides. The power jet kicks in at 98 to 100 percent throttle. Also make sure they are even at wide open throttle. Looking at your plugs ngk recommends color on top 3 threads. I only see color on 1 this would mean your plug is too cold of a heat range br7es would be better for your bike also the first 1/2 mm of the electrode should be shiny which means your engine is too retarded. If you plan on advancing the timing now is the time so you don't have to start over with jetting. There is no sign of transfer of aluminum at the base of the plug so I see no signs of ping or detonation. I would advance 3 to 4 deg. 1 Quote
Stingray Posted April 9, 2020 Report Posted April 9, 2020 Is the place your doing the plug chop flat. The best info comes from a hard pull a hill climb is a good thing coasting is not. 1 Quote
13B-RX3 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Posted April 9, 2020 Great info guys, thank you. I am running up a hill and it's stock gearing, so it's quite a load. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Quote
13B-RX3 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Posted April 9, 2020 I use a digital caliper for measuring, harbor freight one will do. Until you main is correct make sure your needle is in the middle it is the last circuit you tune. My Procedure is to set idol Circuit first making sure that it is not too fat or too lean in the bottom and second I just the top end because the mid range is a combination of the idle circuit in the top and circuit Does your carburetor have a power jet on it on the top on the back? They usually have a hose going from the bowl to that jet.Thank you so much for the reply! I have a 10X inspection magnifier with a measuring scale. From 160-172, I'm measuring 1.5mm, the only change being the color. I'm fairly certain the needle is correct and I know the pilot circuit is. I set them in the order you mentioned, the only thing I can think of that caused it to lean from where I had set it originally is that I replaced the reeds with a thinner (less stiff) reed. Maybe that's what caused it. It is a the slides are definitely opening all the way. It is a PV carb but I've done chops with it plugged and operational and don't really notice any difference in the plugs. With plugs that have been in the bike for more than 12 seconds I do see the cad plating burned off about 2-3 threads down and the timing definitely is conservative, I didn't want to push my luck until I was positive I had enough fuel. The ring on the electrode is maybe .007-.010. I was under the impression that timing doesn't drastically effect AFR, I was planning on getting the fuel sorted then setting the timing on a load bearing Dyno. The timing now is basically a banshee curve +3 degrees. The engine is fairly low compression so I'm sure I can get away with much more, but that'll have to wait till I strap it on the Dyno. My thinking on the width of the band is that being an air cooled motor, the plugs are going to run hotter than in a water cooled. That being said the area of the plug that will be at self cleaning temp will be wider, leaving a narrower band.I think 160 main is about the limit of what the engine can burn, anything beyond that and I start getting black bands in the smoke ring. I may be way off though, is just a theory. I thought turbo rotaries were finicky, they don't have shit on 2 strokes! Thanks again, I look forward to your reply! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Quote
13B-RX3 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Posted April 9, 2020 Took about 15 min to get this pic lol. It looks like 1mm but it's the angle, looking at it in person, it's closer to 1.5.Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Quote
Stingray Posted April 9, 2020 Report Posted April 9, 2020 (edited) If the soot ring isn’t growing I would guess it is lean in the mid range color wise I like the 162 plugs any chance you can lift the needle 1 notch (lower the clip) with the 162 then do a 20 min ride no more than 1/2 throttle. Please post pick of 20 min plug whole then chopped only need to chop 1 plug for this test. Do you have a laser thermometer after your run take a temp of the cylinders and one of the pipe on each side about 3 inches off the jug. Thanks Edited April 9, 2020 by Stingray Quote
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