CrypticZz Posted April 2, 2020 Report Posted April 2, 2020 So my 2000 banshee was just rebuilt due to A recent blowup which led to it seizing. In this blowup the right piston had a hole in it and there was aluminum on the top of it. I thought nothing of it and decided to go with an upgrade so I got Athena 68mm cylinders and pistons. The rebuild went fine but after starting it up for the first Time there was little to no spark in the right cylinder. The left cylinder ran fine but the right would only go off every now and then. There was a tors delete and the black box/brain was taken off so I assumed it was another electrical problem. I swapped the Cdi with that of my dads bike which runs like a dream and still no spark on the right cylinder. Pls help because I have no idea what else could be causing absolutely no spark on the right side. The parking brake is still on the bike too and the wire inside The throttle housing leading to the tors wasn’t disconnected but since the tors box was I would assume this isn’t a problem. Quote
hoppedupandcutdown Posted April 2, 2020 Report Posted April 2, 2020 Switch the spark wires and see if the problem changes side, that will test the wires and plug caps. Also check your pick-up coil gap and wiring to it. If it was sitting apart for a while, make sure their is no nest in the right pipe. Might also see if the right pipe has fuel in it (flooded). Quote
CrypticZz Posted April 2, 2020 Author Report Posted April 2, 2020 Well we’ve already checked the carbs and they are perfectly synced then we swapped the plug caps and the side stayed into he right side. The reeds are both fine but the only thing I haven’t checked is the pick-up coil gaps and the wiring to it. The pipes are also fine. Quote
kawa110 Posted April 3, 2020 Report Posted April 3, 2020 If you swapped plug caps and nothing changed it is not elect. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
CrypticZz Posted April 3, 2020 Author Report Posted April 3, 2020 Any other ideas since it’s not electric and the reeds, carbs, and pipes are all fine? Quote
CrypticZz Posted April 6, 2020 Author Report Posted April 6, 2020 (edited) So after firing it up with new coils, plug caps, and plug wires, the the right side does fire but it runs about 10 degrees cooler on both the pipe and cylinder. Is this normal or should I still be concerned? Edited April 6, 2020 by CrypticZz Quote
hoppedupandcutdown Posted April 6, 2020 Report Posted April 6, 2020 Pass a leakdown test? Maybe the left is 10 degrees hotter. Quote
CrypticZz Posted April 17, 2020 Author Report Posted April 17, 2020 So the problem is solved and the bike runs like a champ. Turns out that one of the jets was too small at a 25 so it was a pain in the ass to start and it would bog after revving and while the rpms were coming down. Went up to a 30 and it runs great up until about 4th gear. What happens is I fly through the first 3 gears no problem but when I shift in 4th, the bike bogs unless you downshift back into 3rd, rev the crap out of it, then shift back into 4th with that extra power. Any ideas at all why it might be bogging in 4th gear and up and how to stop that from happening? Another bit of information that might help is that I have 21cc dimes but I’ve been running 91 octane pump gas. Could this be why the bike is bogging at 4th gear or could it be something else like the air screw? All ideas are appreciated Quote
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