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Parking brake switch?


Redrig

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Hello all, first post here and greetings from Utah

I could use some help.I have a 96 banshee that is bone stock it still has tors and everything stock on it , I've never had a problem with it and overall been extremely reliable.

About a year ago it became really hard to start , and when it did start it would run like crap. so I did some of the basics, rebuild the carburetors,  checked the coil new spark plug caps , plugs , etc. 

I still can't get it to run long at all, it will run for 5 or 10 seconds very poorly and then die out. (Makes it really tough to dial in the carburetors)

It feels like I'm chasing some kind of electrical gremlin and have been reading up on the system. 

Which leads me to my question, how can you isolate the parking brake switch? I can't find it,  is it in the actual clutch lever somewhere?  Thanks in advance for any help 

 

 

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Okay , that makes sense now , thanks for the quick responses.

Well crap . I don't know what to attack next . Tors box plugged in or unplugged it is the same. 

When adjusting your carbs after a rebuild , how many turns out do you start with on the air screw ? I'm right around 1 . Less or more doesn't seem to matter still runs crappy 

 

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Yeah , it gets very little run time and sits quite often over the winters out here and couple that with life and kids , I wish I could ride it more often . Maybe 10 hours a year it's whole life .

Good idea on the pipes , just barely fixed a Honda 50 two wheeler with that exact problem that sat for 30 years , bunch of crap in the pipe.

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  • 1 month later...

Hello all , 

I am back again and still having the same problems , it will kick over and shortly die , maybe run for 5 to 10 seconds very poorly and finally die out. 

I have tested everything electrically on the bike that  I can find specs on , stator , coil , I put new plug caps one , the wiring harness is good , tors unplugged, 

EVERYTHING is within specs and I cant find what is wrong.   @hoppedupandcutdown  - I checked the pipes too and have the silencers removed now as well. They are not plugged up with nests. 

So this got me thinking , maybe the CDI box is bad . So my 1st question is , can these things fail slowly ? still produce a spark but run like crap ? Or when they go , do they just completely crap out and give no spark ? 

2nd question - I have a 96 with the funky CDI plugs . I have located an OEM CDI box from a 91,  can I just simply change the plugs out to make that old CDI box work with my harness ? 

Thanks much 

 

 

 

Edited by Redrig
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57 minutes ago, 375hp banshees said:

I believe the cdi can be hit or miss.
South texas banshee sells adapters so i believe all cdi's will interchange if wired correctly.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 

Okay good , as long as all OEM will interchange across the years, thats good to know . I am not scared to swap out the plugs. 

31 minutes ago, hoppedupandcutdown said:

A guy on FB just had the exact same problem, ended up being cracked intake boots.

going to check those now , when I rebuilt the carbs I didnt notice anything . But then again I didnt inspect them 

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The intakes boots are in good shape no cracks . 

I have been reading up on reeds and symptoms of bad reeds and how they can affect performance , I wonder if my reeds are shot , I have never looked at them and I do have some of the signs of bad reeds , so  I will check those out next.  

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Damn , the reeds are perfect . Not even a sliver of light coming through anywhere. They look brand new. 

I will crack open the carbs just to verify I didn't miss anything . After that idk what to check next . 

Everything I have tested ( pretty much everything ) is checking within specs . I guess I'll have to try another cdi box

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