New to me, Banshee Build/opinions thread

[PapoEvoVIII]

So I currently own a ‘06 ltr 450 and soon gonna be sold and I’m going to get a banshee. I’ve been looking around and reading a lot online for the last 2 weeks, as well as getting different ideas and learning new things from some close friends that are or were banshee owners.

 

I live in south Florida and mainly do trail riding with a bit of woods depending the area we go to ride at. And so I have 2 different options for a build and would like to get the forums opinions. As well as any other builds you may recommend, although I’m pretty sure I’m covering the 2 most popular builds currently for my style of riding.

 

Obviously on either of the two builds I will be running:

 

V Force 4 Reeds

 

Cool head

 

Pro mod transmission with modified shift star and shift detention bearing, with possible Wpc treatment option

 

Chariot billet clutch basket

 

Direct drive lock up clutch kit, I know many of you have your pros and cons on these but I rode my friends shee with a 4 mil 66.5mm bore trail port and I loved how it shifted. Has pro mod trans and the shifting was butter smooth and I had no issues with the clutch pull pressure. Some complain on the forums that it’s stiff but his was almost oem feel

 

Driveline performance dune/trail clutch kit

 

Chariot billet impeller/cover and the billet impeller gear

 

Aluminum radiator

 

I will be converting over to dc using the ricks Motorsport stator and trail tech reg/rec

 

Mikuni black fuel pump

 

Lectron 34mm or 36mm carbs, setup for high flow pumps, I know a lot of people have their own opinions on these carbs and many will possibly tell me to go with keihin or mikuni carbs as there’s tons of support for them on here but I like the idea of the lectrons and how they work and I can also see them being a bit more responsive/peppy on the low end as compared to jetted carbs

 

Ims over sized gas tank, many of you don’t like how they look but I personally do. I also ride with some 4 pokes and we ride about 8-10 hours out of the day when we ride, sometimes 2 days back to back and I travel long distances so fuel is a must

 

Now for the engine internals, I plan on having redline racing do my port work and also ordering a lot of my engine related stuff from them. For my kind of riding though would you guys recommend going:

 

Stock bored cylinders, 66.5mm, with a crankworks 4 mil stroker crank

 

Or

 

Crankwork 4 mil stroker crank with a serval cub kit

 

Both builds will be ported by redline racing with a dune/trail port

 

Also what do you guys think about using ceramic bearings on the engine and trans? I’m not talking cheap Chinese bulls**t bearings, real ceramic bearings. What are your guys opinions on these versus the tz/maxload bearings.

 

To give you a brief background about me, I’m not new to the atv world but I am new to the 2 stroke atv world. Also for some 10 years already I’m really big into cars and i build my own cars and have experience around engines, building, rebuilding, servicing, etc. So no need to get into the super tech stuff and try to break it down how it all works. So I’m a firm believer in you get what you pay for and a firm believer in wait a bit extra to save up a few bucks to buy the better part.

 

I also am aware of how 2 strokes work as I’m also big into racing nitro rc cars which is very similar to 2 strokes although the banshee cylinders I see have extra ports and I’m under the impression that they were designed to help increase the volume of the chamber before closing the ports and compressing to bring the total volume of trapped air over the 347cc of what it should really be trapping. Hence the boost ports?!?!? Still a bit unfamiliar in this area.

 

Anyways any opinions and help you guys can give in helping decide would be appreciated. I know the difference in power between the 2 setups would be about 10hp but what about how usable is the power band between one and the other. Obviously the 4 mil serval will make more power but how will it respond down low compared to the 66.5mm 4 mil or even a stock bore 4 mil setup.

 

For suspension, I have already spoken with Laeger to go with some +2+1 a arms with some pep pb1 extra large res, zps shocks, for the front and rear and I’m looking at doing a lonestar racing -1 swingarm with their extended axle setup.

 

Another thing, what about changing the gear ratio with the gears behind the clutch basket, and in the general area, versus changing the gearing using the sprockets, fr/r. I was looking into running the redline racing 2.68 or at least running the stock ratio gearing setup from redline racing. I like the straight cut gears versus helical style. Smoother and less forces working on the gear teeth. Of course with the sacrifice of some whining.

 

Thank you!!!!

Angel

Or y’all can call me by my nickname

Papo

 

Hope to get this thing going soon and start sharing my build with y’all. There’s a shit ton more that I’m doing to it but I don’t want to bomb you all with my entire build idea in a thread that I’m only looking for some opinions on other things lol

[PapoEvoVIII]

If I take a while to respond at times, forgive me. I’m currently vacationing in Canada and spending some of my spare time looking up other things for the banshee build and gathering as much information I can about them from all around the web. Of course as anything, don’t believe everything you read, but hey if you got more than 3 people saying the same thing then usually it is as said versus one person saying something and no one else backing that up in the same thread or in other threads

[Keno]

 

Talk to Redline about your goals and motor questions since they are going to be building your motor.

 

Keep the stock main gearing ratio. 2.68 is for asphalt mainly.

 

Congrats on the purchase. You sound excited.

 

 

 

 

[PapoEvoVIII]

2 minutes ago, Keno said:

Talk to Redline about your goals and motor questions since they are going to be building your motor.

Congrats on the purchase. You sound excited.

Not necessarily will they be building it. They will only be doing the port work, I will be putting the engine together myself more than likely. I always like to tackle things myself and Have some fun in the process.

 

also not in my hands yet, but soon will be owning one. Thank you though, definitely excited to have a shee soon

Edited January 30, 2020 by PapoEvoVIII

[Canadianshee]

Go oem on the stator and nothing else. Look up the thread on DC conversion.

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk

[PapoEvoVIII]

Just now, Canadianshee said:

Go oem on the stator and nothing else. Look up the thread on DC conversion.

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
 

Hmmm, that’s a bummer. Sometimes I get caught up at night riding back home and I know the headlights on the shee aren’t very good as they dim during idle and progressively get brighter as the rpms go up. Ill look up the specific thread though, thanks.

[gusto]

Buy JL Engineering stator or have home concert your stock stator to DC. His set up is slick 

your carbs are to big and use pwk’s

your suspension is a good choice

why would you want to build a stocker 4 mil with your pistons at that bore?  That’s just dumb. You’d be way ahead doing a 392.

pro mods are great.

i would never do a lockup unless I needed it

you would be way ahead buying  built banshee. You’d pay half price compared to building one. Even shipping across country would be feasible.

 

[gusto]

Buy JL Engineering stator or have him convert  your stock stator to DC. His set up is slick 

your carbs are to big and use pwk’s

your suspension is a good choice

why would you want to build a stocker 4 mil with your pistons at that bore?  That’s just dumb. You’d be way ahead doing a 392.

pro mods are great.

i would never do a lockup unless I needed it. 

you would be way ahead buying  built banshee. You’d pay half price compared to building one. Even shipping across country would be feasible.
 

going with a 421 is going to be hard on gas, you would be better off building a smaller motor if you want to ride 8-10 hours

 

[PapoEvoVIII]

16 hours ago, gusto said:

Buy JL Engineering stator or have him convert  your stock stator to DC. His set up is slick 

your carbs are to big and use pwk’s

your suspension is a good choice

why would you want to build a stocker 4 mil with your pistons at that bore?  That’s just dumb. You’d be way ahead doing a 392.

pro mods are great.

i would never do a lockup unless I needed it. 

you would be way ahead buying  built banshee. You’d pay half price compared to building one. Even shipping across country would be feasible.
 

going with a 421 is going to be hard on gas, you would be better off building a smaller motor if you want to ride 8-10 hours

 

I’ve looked around but I don’t think he makes stators anymore. As for floating the ground that’s a simple job that can be done at home. I have heard he will rewind an oem stator still for more wattage. So I may go that route as that’s a more timely process that I don’t feel like taking on.

 

thats the reason for the bigger gas tank from ims. I get more riding out of it considering gas tanks on 4 pokes are generally in the 2.5-3.6g range so I would be able to ride just about as long as they would. Plus we refill during the trips so not all those hours on 1 tank either lol. My ltr can’t even do that...

buying a built bike is nice, you save a lot of money but I don’t find joy in buying someone else’s project. It’s always a pleasure when you build your own project. And I plan on taring it down eventually to do my own gusset and powdercoat the frame. One of my businesses has to do with metal working and fabricating.

whats a 392 setup? Stock stroke serval cub?

 

thanks

angel

[gusto]

1 hour ago, PapoEvoVIII said:

I’ve looked around but I don’t think he makes stators anymore. As for floating the ground that’s a simple job that can be done at home. I have heard he will rewind an oem stator still for more wattage. So I may go that route as that’s a more timely process that I don’t feel like taking on.

 

thats the reason for the bigger gas tank from ims. I get more riding out of it considering gas tanks on 4 pokes are generally in the 2.5-3.6g range so I would be able to ride just about as long as they would. Plus we refill during the trips so not all those hours on 1 tank either lol. My ltr can’t even do that...

buying a built bike is nice, you save a lot of money but I don’t find joy in buying someone else’s project. It’s always a pleasure when you build your own project. And I plan on taring it down eventually to do my own gusset and powdercoat the frame. One of my businesses has to do with metal working and fabricating.

whats a 392 setup? Stock stroke serval cub?

 

thanks

angel

JL Sells a plug in unit battery/rectifier that’s real slick. I have one. And it fits infringe of my Clarke tank. Also he can float your ground for 25 and if you need he sells a 200 watt stator.

yes a 392 is stock stroke crank 68mm bore. CP serval or Driveline Assassins would be my choice.

 

[trickedcarbine]

Lectrons are ok, but the 36’s will be a bit big. Also no need to set them up for a pump. You won’t be moving that kind of fuel through the motor. Just get the dual pinguel petcock. 

[PapoEvoVIII]

2 hours ago, gusto said:

JL Sells a plug in unit battery/rectifier that’s real slick. I have one. And it fits infringe of my Clarke tank. Also he can float your ground for 25 and if you need he sells a 200 watt stator.

yes a 392 is stock stroke crank 68mm bore. CP serval or Driveline Assassins would be my choice.

 

I’ll hit him up then when I get back in town and see what he has. I saw the battery and Rec kit he sells but might opt to make my own and put it in the front under the plastic, was thinking of putting a slightly bigger battery so I can get a bit more stored up charge. Sometimes we’ll be out in the middle of nowhere in the dark just posted and some of the guys will be hooning around so makes for a nice back up to have lights on without needing to turn the bike on as often. 

 

Driveline assassin is what I’m currently looking for but they’re out of stock currently for a while it seems. I’ll shoot them a call though next week to see if they can give any details on eta.

 

16 minutes ago, trickedcarbine said:

Lectrons are ok, but the 36’s will be a bit big. Also no need to set them up for a pump. You won’t be moving that kind of fuel through the motor. Just get the dual pinguel petcock. 

That’s why I said 34/36. I see some people run 33 pwk’s but since I want a bit more pep down low maybe I’ll opt for their 30’s instead with some Paul turner or toomey t5 pipes.

the fuel pump idea is just for added safety since we do consistent riding for maybe 30 min to an hour sometimes to reach the location we are going to or sometimes just riding around seeing some new areas and stuff. And of course who rides around looking for new areas to ride without wanting to get on it often on some long straights. Plus since we do a lot of high speed wot runs it’s good since the carbs will be running a bit rich on the top. It’ll choke out some power but added safety in keeping the cylinder cooler and therefore also running through gas faster. But I could always try the pingel out and if it doesn’t give me fuel starvation hiccups then just keep using it. If it does then I can just swap to the pump.

 

thanks

angel

[fastbanshee8]

I've got a dual Pingel feeding two 34mm Mikuni's on a 421 Driveline high port, and it's not starved for fuel by any means.

[PapoEvoVIII]

1 minute ago, fastbanshee8 said:

I've got a dual Pingel feeding two 34mm Mikuni's on a 421 Driveline high port, and it's not starved for fuel by any means.

I take it your mikunis have a larger bowl as well? Or you running the factory mikuni bowls that the 34’s come with? But alright well dual pingel it is. Saves me some vacuum line running and tapping lol

how do you like the 421 with the 34mm? Any dyno graph to show hp/tq curve? What kinda riding do you do?

[Killacaviar]

421 driveline hp. I got the hp since it’s not quite the same port timings as a cub but not as long as a serval. And I was able to change the entire power delivery with my pipes.

I would imagine a driveline serval is a great option as well. But cost wise bill and lane at drivelines are incredible reasonable and very respectable cylinders.

Hot rods or driveline crank.

Slp pipes. They are a blast for anything but drag racing.

Fast hd clutch. No lockout. All the usually shifting mods. If you care for your bikes and change your clutch after each season you don’t need a lockup.
Regardless of a promod and your shift star mod etc you will miss shifts. If your in the 80-90hp range you don’t need a lockup if you maintain your clutch. Also make sure you buy a new inner and outer clutch hub. They are cheap and are great insurance.

I had a lockup fast clutch and lighter springs. Felt great at the bars but I could t shift confidently. It’s one thing to take a bike for a ride. But to actually own it and trail ride it constantly you will miss shifts with a lockup. I

Pwk35s.

Dual Pingle.

I ran a assassin hp with slps and 35s and the things was a wheelie machine. Especially on race gas. It was in the powerband instantly. I could sit in the trees at the bottom of a 100yrd coal hill in trevorton. Drop the clutch. Second gear start. Shift into third sometimes 4th and just pull and pull all the way up.

I live in pa and do mostly trail and coal riding and this was an incredibly fun bike to ride. I had a motor built for more top end and I hated it so much I tore it apart after one ride. Sold everything and went this route.

There are multiple people on here that have run a similar set up and I promise you they would have nothing but great things to say.

I have since sold the bike. But only because of an offer I could refuse. I would build the same motor if I was to do it again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk