New to me, Banshee Build/opinions thread

[Killacaviar]

Also do what you please. But the combined knowledge of all these guys on here In regards to banshees is second to none. This site has taught me so much about these bikes.

And they will all tell you to run owls on a banshee for every type of riding...except maybe, just maybe drag racing.


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[fastbanshee8]

On 1/30/2020 at 9:33 PM, PapoEvoVIII said:

I take it your mikunis have a larger bowl as well? Or you running the factory mikuni bowls that the 34’s come with? But alright well dual pingel it is. Saves me some vacuum line running and tapping lol

how do you like the 421 with the 34mm? Any dyno graph to show hp/tq curve? What kinda riding do you do?

Stock Mikuni bowls, and no it hasn't been dyno'd.  I ride at Little Sahara State Park in Waynoka, OK, so it's sand.  It's also got CPI inframes on it.  It's more of an all around bike.  Not just drag, or not just play, or not just trails.  It's set up for the type of riding I do, and I'm very happy with it.  Pro mod trans by CamATV, and he also put the motor together.  He went completely through the trans, did some work on the cylinders, replaced the crank bearings, and a few other odds, and ends.

[PapoEvoVIII]

3 hours ago, Killacaviar said:

421 driveline hp. I got the hp since it’s not quite the same port timings as a cub but not as long as a serval. And I was able to change the entire power delivery with my pipes.

I would imagine a driveline serval is a great option as well. But cost wise bill and lane at drivelines are incredible reasonable and very respectable cylinders.

Hot rods or driveline crank.

Slp pipes. They are a blast for anything but drag racing.

Fast hd clutch. No lockout. All the usually shifting mods. If you care for your bikes and change your clutch after each season you don’t need a lockup.
Regardless of a promod and your shift star mod etc you will miss shifts. If your in the 80-90hp range you don’t need a lockup if you maintain your clutch. Also make sure you buy a new inner and outer clutch hub. They are cheap and are great insurance.

I had a lockup fast clutch and lighter springs. Felt great at the bars but I could t shift confidently. It’s one thing to take a bike for a ride. But to actually own it and trail ride it constantly you will miss shifts with a lockup. I

Pwk35s.

Dual Pingle.

I ran a assassin hp with slps and 35s and the things was a wheelie machine. Especially on race gas. It was in the powerband instantly. I could sit in the trees at the bottom of a 100yrd coal hill in trevorton. Drop the clutch. Second gear start. Shift into third sometimes 4th and just pull and pull all the way up.

I live in pa and do mostly trail and coal riding and this was an incredibly fun bike to ride. I had a motor built for more top end and I hated it so much I tore it apart after one ride. Sold everything and went this route.

There are multiple people on here that have run a similar set up and I promise you they would have nothing but great things to say.

I have since sold the bike. But only because of an offer I could refuse. I would build the same motor if I was to do it again.


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I was looking into the driveline assassin cylinders but they’re currently out of stock. Will have to call to see what the eta on them are. But I’ve been hearing good things about the assassin cylinders from a few people locally and reading online. And it’s nice that they have the lp, mp, and hp, already preset so you don’t really have to go in there and further port. Or as with the servals, they come already a bit big and you can only go bigger from there.

 

personally I’m not looking to make 90+ hp although if the bike makes it then f**k it right? Lol but I’m looking for maybe 80-85ish hp with more mid and top than low but more mid than anything else.  Reason being for me not caring to much about low end is because out here in Florida the trails aren’t really much slow/mid speed trails where you’ll be in the low/mid of the rpm band often. You’ll be more in the mid/high with a lot more mid than high, if that makes sense to you lol. I’d heard good things about t5’s and the dmc aliens, but just recently I was looking at some reviews on the slp. I’ve seen a lot of people backing them for trail riding, where all around, it’s one of the best performing pipes which still has more top end rpm than the pc pipes that cap out at 8600 rpms.

in regards to the comment about you’ll still miss a shift no matter what mods you do, I do agree with that. Not to mention humans aren’t perfect and we make errors, time and time again. It’s just a natural thing.

one good thing about me is, I take in to account, the things people mention, or when I see people posting pics of parts that frequently go bad or are prone to breaking. So in an effort to save myself frustration and time, I will stock up on a few extra of those pieces just to be safe.

another thing is, reason for me wanting to go with lectrons is because when setup right, they should outperform any jetted carb in the low end, therefore giving me a bit more hp/tq on the low rpm band. Of course everything is tuning though and patience and knowing what you are doing. Not just thinking you can do something when you know damn well you are lying to yourself lol

since I see more people running the dual pingel vs the mikuni black hf pump, I have opt’d to go that route and test it for myself.

and considering driveline already makes cylinders with different postings I might just put together my own engine build instead of wasting the reps time over at redline and since I was going to assemble the whole thing myself already, just go that route.

in terms of crank, id really like to go with the crankworks crank as they are very reputable and i don’t have to worry about welds breaking or anything with the billet crank. Also comes balanced from them so don’t have to worry about minor imbalances with a trued and welded crank. Not trying to knock on the Vito’s or hot rods or other companies, I know they work tremendously well, but if you have the funds to go with something that’s for sure 100% better, then hell, why not? It’s long term insurance in the end.

as for gas selection, I’ll be sticking to 93 since that’s the highest octane available to me here at the gas stations. Saves me from having to carry around an extra 5 gallon tank of race gas lol

Really appreciative for the detailed response 🙏🏻

 

Thank you

angel

[Killacaviar]

I was looking into the driveline assassin cylinders but they’re currently out of stock. Will have to call to see what the eta on them are. But I’ve been hearing good things about the assassin cylinders from a few people locally and reading online. And it’s nice that they have the lp, mp, and hp, already preset so you don’t really have to go in there and further port. Or as with the servals, they come already a bit big and you can only go bigger from there.
 
personally I’m not looking to make 90+ hp although if the bike makes it then f**k it right? Lol but I’m looking for maybe 80-85ish hp with more mid and top than low but more mid than anything else.  Reason being for me not caring to much about low end is because out here in Florida the trails aren’t really much slow/mid speed trails where you’ll be in the low/mid of the rpm band often. You’ll be more in the mid/high with a lot more mid than high, if that makes sense to you lol. I’d heard good things about t5’s and the dmc aliens, but just recently I was looking at some reviews on the slp. I’ve seen a lot of people backing them for trail riding, where all around, it’s one of the best performing pipes which still has more top end rpm than the pc pipes that cap out at 8600 rpms.
in regards to the comment about you’ll still miss a shift no matter what mods you do, I do agree with that. Not to mention humans aren’t perfect and we make errors, time and time again. It’s just a natural thing.
one good thing about me is, I take in to account, the things people mention, or when I see people posting pics of parts that frequently go bad or are prone to breaking. So in an effort to save myself frustration and time, I will stock up on a few extra of those pieces just to be safe.
another thing is, reason for me wanting to go with lectrons is because when setup right, they should outperform any jetted carb in the low end, therefore giving me a bit more hp/tq on the low rpm band. Of course everything is tuning though and patience and knowing what you are doing. Not just thinking you can do something when you know damn well you are lying to yourself lol
since I see more people running the dual pingel vs the mikuni black hf pump, I have opt’d to go that route and test it for myself.
and considering driveline already makes cylinders with different postings I might just put together my own engine build instead of wasting the reps time over at redline and since I was going to assemble the whole thing myself already, just go that route.
in terms of crank, id really like to go with the crankworks crank as they are very reputable and i don’t have to worry about welds breaking or anything with the billet crank. Also comes balanced from them so don’t have to worry about minor imbalances with a trued and welded crank. Not trying to knock on the Vito’s or hot rods or other companies, I know they work tremendously well, but if you have the funds to go with something that’s for sure 100% better, then hell, why not? It’s long term insurance in the end.
as for gas selection, I’ll be sticking to 93 since that’s the highest octane available to me here at the gas stations. Saves me from having to carry around an extra 5 gallon tank of race gas lol
Really appreciative for the detailed response
 
Thank you
angel

I completely agree with your comments on the crank. Hot rods is a very reasonably priced crank that has been tried and true for the size motor you intend to build. If you have the funds than go for the crank works.

Regardless, it seems like you have you mind set on what you want to run. But I would call lane at driveline and ask about his cylinder timeline. They do runs very often and usually sell than all as soon as they’re plated.

But if money isn’t an issue I would do a redline ported serval with some snipers.

Whatever you decide to go with ask them about your carb thoughts and see what they recommend with their motors. At the end of the day whomever is doing the port work and/or selling you the cylinder probably knows best.



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