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Lockout clutch HELP!


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Hey guys needing some help with a lockout clutch install.

If i torque the bolts down all the way, the pressure plate hits up against the flat backside of the lockout fingers when I pull in the clutch, and im only able to pull in the clutch halfway before that happens.

From what I understand, the fingers are supposed to be able to rotate freely outward and not make any contact with the pressure plate up to a certain point, and im guessing that point would be somewhere where the fingers are rounded- somewhere about where the red line is in the picture. 

I have no clue what is wrong with the setup I have, But I wanna go ride this weekend so trying to get it fixed ASAP.  

Anyone have experience with the lockout clutch? Could someone Veryify where its supposed to contact? I believe I can remedy it with some spacers if I could find out what the gapping is supposed to be...

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5 hours ago, Chukkinsod said:

Looks normal to me but you need to make sure while tightening that all arms can move freely. I have seen some get "stuck" while installing as spring pressure not even back off re install insuring all move.

That pic was taken with the bolts backed off far enough to allow the clutch to disengage fully. With the bolts torqued down, there is only about 1/16'' gap between the pressure plate and flat side of weighted fingers. The pressure plate moves a total of only about 2/16'' so thats why I'm only able to disengage it halfway. I figured I could put in a couple washers between the lockout legs and springs to increase the gap, but since the gap between the pressure plate and lockout determines the angle of contact of the weighted fingers on the pressure plate, I kinda really need to know the exact dimension of the needed gap between the 2 parts....

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On 3/22/2019 at 10:49 PM, SKEETER said:

Dumb question, but obviously that's not a banshee you're putting this on.  Is it intended for the motor ?

Correct its not a banshee. Its a yamaha yz450f turbo snowbike. 

Its part of a turbo kit that was made by KMS Performance specific for this application. The clutch was previously installed on the same exact bike I have, a 2010 yz450f.

I speculate if my fitment issue has anything to do with the aftermarket clutch basket, cant tell if thats the stock pressure plate though.....?

 

I ended up adding a metric fender washer between each spring and leg of the lockout body, washers are about 1/16'' so now I'm able to disengage the clutch all the way, but the clutch pull is noticeably harder. Any recommendations for lighter springs?

I havent had a chance yet to test out the clutch fix, but my question still remains- what is the spacing supposed to be between the lockout and pressure plate?

I'm sure there there is an optimal distance, which translates into the optimal angle of contact for the weighted fingers. My best guess would be to space the lockout just far enough so that the fingers center of weight to pivot point axis is perpendicular to the clutch axis. From my understanding of physics, that is the angle at which there would be the most gyroscopic effect (?) / leverage force applied to the fingers. As the angle increases, there would be less leverage force and greater pulling force on the weighted part of the fingers, and the distance from the pivot point (fulcrum) to the load (pressure plate) would also increase- decreasing the amount of force applied to the pressure plate. Correct? 

Drew a diagram to better explain the angle

 

imageedit_7481_zps4s9a7phc.jpg

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On 3/22/2019 at 7:36 PM, locogato11283 said:

What springs do you have? I’ve had about a million lockups over the years of varying brand and never had an issue with any of them.

But the original issue wasnt in the springs, springs dont determine the gap between lockout and pressure plate

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