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First Clutch Change '04 Shee


dttuner

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11 minutes ago, kawa110 said:

Are u talking about the clutch pack spring bolts?
I’ve broken a shit ton of those and never needed a extractor to remove as they never bottomed out in the hub. I’ve always been able to use a small pick/standard screwdriver and back the threads out of the hub.

Good point... they were lubed-up going in and i didn't fully tighten them down.

 

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I think most guys have a tendency to overtighten bolts or nuts so that plus aluminum parts get many into trouble. I'm into my asphalt multi-stage A LOT and have used an inch pound torque wrench on those little bolts every single time. The same inner basket has been used in my 4mil since 2008 and I've literally made hundreds of adjustments. Never once has a bolt broke or basket leg stripped. I don't see what the big deal is to follow torque specs.

 

 

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1 hour ago, dttuner said:

Pressure plate comes right off, but that stem is from either the clutch basket or engine case (?)

That stem is on the inner hub. Worst case scenario you're out $40 for a new oem one. Left hand bit will take that right out, I've done it on a few that were sitting for years.

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10 hours ago, 97Screamer said:

That stem is on the inner hub. Worst case scenario you're out $40 for a new oem one. Left hand bit will take that right out, I've done it on a few that were sitting for years.

 

11 hours ago, dano3 said:

Good shit! Thank you both! Got my backup plan.

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Nope. Once I drilled a hole in the screw and tapped the extractor in, 1 turn with wrench to break it loose and then hand turned all the way out.
Besides, even if my torque wrnech is way off calibration I still know what too much pressure feels like. 
There's no way I applied enough pressure to bust a perfect screw.

Edited by dttuner
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