Dmac68 Posted October 16, 2018 Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 All I am in need of some help! I came across a 1996 banshee barn find that I am trying to bring back to life. I have wrenched on bikes before but this is my first banshee. Here is what I know about it. It sat in a barn for a few years. I brought it home and cleaned it all up and found it has the following modifications. The head says Trinity Pro TT and the top cover says Stage IV, It has a 2 to 1 intake on it that also says Stage IV, Mikuni TM Carb (Which i called trinity and this is not the carb that came with the original setup they sell) the throttle cable going to it is a Honda setup that someone put on it, Full LRD exhaust. So far i have flushed the fuel system, cleaned the carb, replaced the 3R4 rubber boot from carburetor to the intake it was weather cracked and replaced the spark plugs . it was missing the CDI and a buddy had one that plugged into it #3GG-10 (off of a 1997 i believe) i looked into it and it says this is incorrect for a 1996 but both plugs get spark. I was able to get it running but it is only running on the left hand side cylinder the pipe on the right side stays cold. The bike has idled fine a few times but them wants to high rev on its own. Can you guys please help me with these issues on what to check or things to look for? i have heard air leaks? Low compression (What compression would be considered in spec if i need to test it) also would you recommend changed the carb and cable ? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97Screamer Posted October 16, 2018 Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 Swap plug leads from the coil and see if the problem follows. If it's high revving on its own a leak down test would be a great idea. Eventually you should change to two carbs for full potential.Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee802 Posted October 16, 2018 Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 Your crank seals could be shot from sitting for so long. Coolant left in the bike when sitting? Does it use orings in the head? Could be cracked and sucking air there. Have you taken off your headers to see if they are free of rats nests? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted October 16, 2018 Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 3 hours ago, Banshee802 said: Your crank seals could be shot from sitting for so long. Coolant left in the bike when sitting? Does it use orings in the head? Could be cracked and sucking air there. Have you taken off your headers to see if they are free of rats nests? rats nest is a good idea to check for, I had that same problem before when my stuff sat for a few years. -do a leak down (pressure test) to make sure you dont have any air leaks -then do a compression test to see where its at 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booxzzy Posted October 17, 2018 Report Share Posted October 17, 2018 Check the fuel tank too, clean it well, I had once piece of dirt clog the pilot jet, shit would start over revving on its own due to being lean as fuk Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmac68 Posted October 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2018 Update! I have cleaned the fuel tank and carb. I pulled the pipes off and made sure no debris was inside, it was clear. Any suggestions on the best way to run a leak down test with a 2 into 1 manifold ? Also suggestions on where I should setup the adjustments on my carb to start out? It is a Mikiuni TM? Thanks again for all the help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97Screamer Posted October 17, 2018 Report Share Posted October 17, 2018 Leak down is the same for a 2-1 intake just need to have the fill valve and gauge on the same tube going into the intake. Here is the one I use for my dirtbike engines, same concept for you, just have to block two exhaust flanges. I've never messed with 2-1 carbs so I won't venture a guess on jetting but if you check out the jetting thread I bet you'll find the answer.Update! I have cleaned the fuel tank and carb. I pulled the pipes off and made sure no debris was inside, it was clear. Any suggestions on the best way to run a leak down test with a 2 into 1 manifold ? Also suggestions on where I should setup the adjustments on my carb to start out? It is a Mikiuni TM? Thanks again for all the help! Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZillaFreak Posted October 17, 2018 Report Share Posted October 17, 2018 34 minutes ago, Dmac68 said: Update! I have cleaned the fuel tank and carb. I pulled the pipes off and made sure no debris was inside, it was clear. Any suggestions on the best way to run a leak down test with a 2 into 1 manifold ? Also suggestions on where I should setup the adjustments on my carb to start out? It is a Mikiuni TM? Thanks again for all the help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk what are exact mods to engine? Exhaust, manifold, carb size, porting, stroke, anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmac68 Posted October 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2018 Update! All i was doing some more trouble shooting last night. I replaced the CDI with the correct part number for 1996. started it, no change. still only runs on the left side cylinder with the right staying cold and it wants to high rev when it does start still. I removed the carb again to make sure it had no debris in it, it was good. Does anyone know how i can determine the carb size on this Mikuni TM carb? it has not markings parts # or anything only says Mikuni TM? I decided to pull the manifold and found the reed valve on the right hand side had a broke flap leaving that cylinder open all the time. I am ordering a new set today. Would this be the culprit of all my issues or do i have more things I should check for? Also suggestions on the best reed valves to buy? All the help and support is appreciated ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmac68 Posted October 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2018 Update! All i was doing some more trouble shooting last night. I replaced the CDI with the correct part number for 1996. started it, no change. still only runs on the left side cylinder with the right staying cold and it wants to high rev when it does start still. I removed the carb again to make sure it had no debris in it, it was good. Does anyone know how i can determine the carb size on this Mikuni TM carb? it has not markings parts # or anything only says Mikuni TM? I decided to pull the manifold and found the reed valve on the right hand side had a broke flap leaving that cylinder open all the time. I am ordering a new set today. Would this be the culprit of all my issues or do i have more things I should check for? Also suggestions on the best reed valves to buy? All the help and support is appreciated !Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted October 18, 2018 Report Share Posted October 18, 2018 (edited) yes, thats your issue right there. after you fix it, should be good to go. idk y i didnt mention that in the first place because ive experienced this a few different times. Edited October 18, 2018 by Ayesully810 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmac68 Posted October 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2018 19 hours ago, Ayesully810 said: yes, thats your issue right there. after you fix it, should be good to go. idk y i didnt mention that in the first place because ive experienced this a few different times. Thanks for the help! I have ordered new reeds and cages. Would this cause that cylinder to be dead to? When I look in the intake side I can see both cylinders/pistons the left side looks clean but the right side (Dead cylinder/side with broken reed valve) looks to have dirty oily substance on the liner walls. I turned it over by hand and didnt notice any scoring in the liner and the stroke looked good. Do you think I have another issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawa110 Posted October 19, 2018 Report Share Posted October 19, 2018 Sometimes when the reeds are blown out ther may be a hole in the piston on that cylinder. I have not read if you have done a compression test. Ignore this comment if you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmac68 Posted October 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2018 Sometimes when the reeds are blown out ther may be a hole in the piston on that cylinder. I have not read if you have done a compression test. Ignore this comment if you have. What would be considered good versus bad compression on these? What is the most accurate way to test the compression on these ? Hook up the tester in that hole and kick it over ?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawa110 Posted October 19, 2018 Report Share Posted October 19, 2018 Thread the proper and accurate tester into spark plug hole, hold throttle wide open. Kick bike over until compression stops climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.