Ayesully810 Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 (edited) I already know about the sticky. I got about a month left of riding season before I wrap things up, so I need only a temporary fix. Left rear is stripped. I really only care because its the bolt that holds my chain tensioner on. Im pretty sure I can drill and tap it up a size, but my question is, should I just cut the old ones out and weld those jds inserts in? Or ive read on here of people drilling the hole out a bit and welding a flange nut in there. If i go that route do you think I can aluminum braze it with a torch? Edited October 10, 2018 by Ayesully810 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano3 Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 If i were you i would just get the jds inserts and weld in the one you need for a quick fix but honestly it would be better to just weld all 4 in since you will already have the welder and other tools out. You can drill out the old ones using a stepped drill bit. Tylers SE build thread had some good pictures of what’s required. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 These aren't JDS inserts, but same idea. I think his would be easier as it's flanged to sit on the outside. Either way, mock up with a peg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted October 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 21 minutes ago, dano3 said: If i were you i would just get the jds inserts and weld in the one you need for a quick fix but honestly it would be better to just weld all 4 in since you will already have the welder and other tools out. You can drill out the old ones using a stepped drill bit. Tylers SE build thread had some good pictures of what’s required. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk thanks Ty how would you drill out the old ones using a step? dont you have to cut them out around the perimeter where the weld is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gusto Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 Didn’t you just powdercoat your frame? If yes I would just re-tap and call it a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 thanks Ty how would you drill out the old ones using a step? dont you have to cut them out around the perimeter where the weld is?I didn’t drill. I used a sawzall. One cut. I did both sides start to finish in 15 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano3 Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 thanks Ty how would you drill out the old ones using a step? dont you have to cut them out around the perimeter where the weld is?You can cut them out too but i feel like it would be harder and leave your new welding surface uneven unless you are really careful with a cutoff wheel. This is what i was talking about. Drill it out until you cut through the weld and can slide the new inserts in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted October 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 Okay i see what you are saying. I feel like if i were going to weld the flange nuts in the step drill bit would be a good idea to open hole up with. But this winter I would like to just put new ones in the right way like tyler did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 I’ve done tons of chassis this way. Never used a step bit for one. Sawzall, clean up, weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 Sawzall or cutoff wheel! Fock buying an expensive bit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 I had a frame in the past where the previous owner drilled out the threads on both sides on the rear hole and fed a long piece of all-thread through the frame and tightened the footpegs on both sides with a nut. It worked... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 I’ve used the all thread method also. It’s an easy temp fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeMachining Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 You can cut them out too but i feel like it would be harder and leave your new welding surface uneven unless you are really careful with a cutoff wheel. This is what i was talking about. Drill it out until you cut through the weld and can slide the new inserts in. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLook like Tyler's butt plug.Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted October 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 yeah jared i read that in some of your posts i was diggin up old ones, where do you get that stuff at? I just retapped the threads today and ran a m10 1.5 in there and it works fine, will prolly hold up for a while. real tight. But like i said id like to do it like tyler did this winter.. what do you weld the inserts in with? tig or arc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted October 10, 2018 Report Share Posted October 10, 2018 Tig mig stick whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.