New member

[Troeller]

Hey Guys,

I'm new here but not new. I'm from NJ and signed up back in 2015 about 6 months after i purchased my banshee but never got around to being active on here. I was having fun with it being mostly stock except for the extended axle, Vforce reeds & T5 pipes. Well that's all i know what's done to it from what i can see. When i bought it, the previous owner was the one who put the mods on. Never had the urge to make it faster because I was the fastest one out of my friends (as sad as that is). My buddy's finally ditched their 300ex & 400ex and both got YFZ450's. I only raced my one friend and all he has is full FMF pipes, air filter, and he did the cam mod to it. I got spanked so now its about time i do some research and wake this beast up with some nice mods. I'm not trying to go too crazy yet but i've read a few things that would really wake the motor up without breaking the bank.

[Ayesully810]

what is considered "breaking the bank?" 

Some porting with increased compression and advanced timing should do.  Depending on who does your porting, for an extra 400 ish bucks you can drop a 4 mil crank in there and really be out front of your buddies 

Edited July 26, 2018 by Ayesully810

[Troeller]

15 minutes ago, Ayesully810 said:

what is considered "breaking the bank?" 

Some porting with increased compression and advanced timing should do.  Depending on who does your porting, for an extra 400 ish bucks you can drop a 4 mil crank in there and really be out front of your buddies 

That's what i was kind of thinking as far as mods go. Port, timing plate +4, new front and rear sprockets, and not sure what size carbs to go with. I didn't know it would only be around 400 to put a 4mil crank in it. I guess modding it isn't as expensive as i thought.

[Ayesully810]

8 hours ago, Troeller said:

That's what i was kind of thinking as far as mods go. Port, timing plate +4, new front and rear sprockets, and not sure what size carbs to go with. I didn't know it would only be around 400 to put a 4mil crank in it. I guess modding it isn't as expensive as i thought.

a 4 mil crank its self is going to be around 420ish, but then you have to get porting done with it with new pistons.  you could still run stock carbs, but if your doing a lot of wide open stuff most people will run 35 mm carbs.  28mm keihins are generally the inbetween people go with. 

[Toybreaker]

I ran 28, 32, 34, and 35 mm on stock cylinder stock stroke ported engine looking for a “balance”

 the 32mm gave the best balance with the dune ported cylinders, 35’s were the best with the drag engine. I probably could have went bigger, but a light switch isnt fun to ride anywhere except hillshooting and the drag strip.

[RagunCajun]

Id like to see footage of the race. I used to have severe problems with getting off the line when i was bolt on's. It had a lot to do with my lack of rider skill and a little with my crap tire choice.

 

If i could go back in time, id tell myself do full suspension and aftermarket LT arms before a 4mil set up. Years ago, i did a nice 4mil on race fuel with stock suspension. While it did spank butt, it beat me up.

 

I dont see why stock carbs wouldnt work just fine. Dont smaller carbs have better/smoother low end response...? I ran 30 oko's on my 4mil and it was fine.

[specialblend07]

9 hours ago, Troeller said:

I guess modding it isn't as expensive as i thought.

 

LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL

 

Oh boy..........

[ZillaFreak]

10 hours ago, Troeller said:

That's what i was kind of thinking as far as mods go. Port, timing plate +4, new front and rear sprockets, and not sure what size carbs to go with. I didn't know it would only be around 400 to put a 4mil crank in it. I guess modding it isn't as expensive as i thought.

Ya, the crank is $400. It is more like $1000 to put it in correctly.

[Ayesully810]

1 hour ago, RagunCajun said:

Id like to see footage of the race. I used to have severe problems with getting off the line when i was bolt on's. It had a lot to do with my lack of rider skill and a little with my crap tire choice.

 

If i could go back in time, id tell myself do full suspension and aftermarket LT arms before a 4mil set up. Years ago, i did a nice 4mil on race fuel with stock suspension. While it did spank butt, it beat me up.

 

I dont see why stock carbs wouldnt work just fine. Dont smaller carbs have better/smoother low end response...? I ran 30 oko's on my 4mil and it was fine.

really? i had stock bike (as fas as i knew from looking at the motor) with PCs with 20 inch holeshots and it was great on the low end.  The smaller carbs will definitely give it better bottom end.  Its pretty dang noticeable going from stock carbs to 35s. 

[Troeller]

Ya, the crank is $400. It is more like $1000 to put it in correctly.

Yea maybe I’ll hold off on that for now lol


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[Troeller]

Id like to see footage of the race. I used to have severe problems with getting off the line when i was bolt on's. It had a lot to do with my lack of rider skill and a little with my crap tire choice.
 
If i could go back in time, id tell myself do full suspension and aftermarket LT arms before a 4mil set up. Years ago, i did a nice 4mil on race fuel with stock suspension. While it did spank butt, it beat me up.
 
I dont see why stock carbs wouldnt work just fine. Dont smaller carbs have better/smoother low end response...? I ran 30 oko's on my 4mil and it was fine.

I wish I had footage to post. Gotta see if any of our friends recorded it. I’ve been riding dirtbikes and quads for about 20 years so I don’t think it’s rider error lol. I think it’s my shitty tires. I was starting in 2nd gear and still couldn’t get the damn thing to hook with holeshot tires all it did was spin in the grass field. When we switched bikes I beat him also.

Maybe I’ll just stick with my stock carbs for now if everyone is saying smaller is better for low end.


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[Troeller]

I’m from North NJ so I do mostly woods/trail riding. I normally stay up here or occasionally go out to PA or Upstate NY and it’s still kinda the same riding scene. Once or twice a year I’ll go down to South Jersey and hit the sand/dunes. I don’t do much WOT in 5th or 6th so I guess the setup I’m looking for is fast acceleration without compromising too much of the top end. I want something where when that powerband kicks in the front end pops up easy but being able to keep under control.

Any idea on sprocket ratio I should go with? I was thinking starting with 13/42 and see if I like that.


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[Ayesully810]

36 minutes ago, Troeller said:

I’m from North NJ so I do mostly woods/trail riding. I normally stay up here or occasionally go out to PA or Upstate NY and it’s still kinda the same riding scene. Once or twice a year I’ll go down to South Jersey and hit the sand/dunes. I don’t do much WOT in 5th or 6th so I guess the setup I’m looking for is fast acceleration without compromising too much of the top end. I want something where when that powerband kicks in the front end pops up easy but being able to keep under control.

Any idea on sprocket ratio I should go with? I was thinking starting with 13/42 and see if I like that.


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Just stick with stock gearing or drop a tooth in the front 

[Rippin'n'Runnin]

I have a stock stroke stock cylinder motor, with +4 timing, dune port, coolhead,vf4, shearer inframes. Nothing special really and I can pull away from my buddy on his 450 all day. It don't take much

[SandSlingerOR]

19 minutes ago, Rippin'n'Runnin said:

I have a stock stroke stock cylinder motor, with +4 timing, dune port, coolhead,vf4, shearer inframes. Nothing special really and I can pull away from my buddy on his 450 all day. It don't take much

I have simular set up as yours, except I had stock carbs and pc pipes. I could beat my brothers 63hp 480 once in awhile, but he got me quite often. Ill probably do a 4mill or 7mill crank & cpi's with 28s or 33 carbs.