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Mx banshee build


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If you’re going to build the chassis, do exactly this:

Find the arms you want to run. Fireball +3, +1 is an excellent setup, but +4,+1 would be best (if he’ll even make them) since you’ll also want to run 4/1 rims up front.

Install the arms and rims/tires.

Lay the quad down on a flat 2x4.

Measure eye to eye for the shock mounts and write it down. This is compressed length.

Lift the quad until the tires are off the ground.

Measure eye to eye and write it down. This is extended length.

Call a shock builder (I like BNR Motorsports). Answer all their questions and ask them what shocks they’d recommend.

Buy those shocks used and ship them to the shock builder.


Elka is widely known to send out shitty setups. They can be extremely good shocks once setup. Axis are the best by many standards. However, once you get the shocks built by a builder (again, not by the manufacturer) they will be extremely capable. My first choice is Axis or Fox, but I’d take a well setup Elka 3R over a top of the line Axis with a shit setup any day.


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19 minutes ago, tfaith08 said:




Elka is widely known to send out shitty setups. They can be extremely good shocks once setup. Axis are the best by many standards. However, once you get the shocks built by a builder (again, not by the manufacturer) they will be extremely capable. My first choice is Axis or Fox, but I’d take a well setup Elka 3R over a top of the line Axis with a shit setup any day.


 

 

Yea thats for sure... I dont know now, but they used to offer some time for a tech to watch you rip around a track or a strip of a rut section ect to see how they perform and make adjustments to the shocks to get them dialed in.   I think some of their "finish" quality (not build or product quality) its almost like at some point they lost their main peep that was able to get them dialed in properly. 

I'll also say  stadium suspension has been AWESOME.. ive rode on a few different bikes with their shocks and has left me speechless.

They re did my oem rear banshee shock a while back to their specs and it was spot on. Even making adjustments to the pre load and rebound where WAY more responsive. 

 

If I had the cash and wanted high end shocks.. I wouldn't think twice and opt to their stuff.

 

 

 

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If you got the coin get the fox float evo gen 3 for the front, they are the top shock and multiple pounds lighter to boot. 

I was on custom axis only for many years witch was the best, till i tryed the fox setup no spring changes needed with three chambers of air to play with

Either way the rear shock is what need the most work theres no easy solution to the short rear shock for mx, exept getting a lsr or laegers full 250r chassis

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All modern premium shocks are good. The key is how accurate the valving is. Elka has been known to send shocks out that are pro ready, but that rarely ever happens. It’s more likely that you’ll get them, they’ll suck, and need to be revalved. At that point, they’ll be top notch.

My first set of Evols didn’t feel as good as my current ones, even though they came direct from Fox for the same specs.

Sometimes you get a world class setup. Sometimes you get a shit setup. The cost to buy new is about the same as buying used and having them gone through. The latter choice gets you a better setup.


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On 7/17/2018 at 6:54 AM, tfaith08 said:

If you’re going to build the chassis, do exactly this:

Find the arms you want to run. Fireball +3, +1 is an excellent setup, but +4,+1 would be best (if he’ll even make them) since you’ll also want to run 4/1 rims up front.

Install the arms and rims/tires.

Lay the quad down on a flat 2x4.

Measure eye to eye for the shock mounts and write it down. This is compressed length.

Lift the quad until the tires are off the ground.

Measure eye to eye and write it down. This is extended length.

So basically measure ride height and have it set up for that exact bike rather than copy someone else. Outstanding. This is what I did for my truck.

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So basically measure ride height and have it set up for that exact bike rather than copy someone else. Outstanding. This is what I did for my truck.


Adding a month and $500 to a suspension build will always make it better. It always irks me when I see someone dump $3k into a setup and skip the fundamentals.


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1 hour ago, kawa110 said:

What are the “rules of thumb” for selecting the proper length and possible +forward on a aftermarket steering stem???

What you like. Taller people with longer arms would like a taller stem that is forward. tyler sized people don't need longer stems are they are short.

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What are the “rules of thumb” for selecting the proper length and possible +forward on a aftermarket steering stem???


Higher will help you get the bars more inline with how you naturally push and pull and will fatigue you less. They’ll also help you stand more upright when you’re taking a small break and still riding. You’ll be able to hang off the side with more body control and will allow you to lean back and forward with a little more control.

Shorter will make you position your body differently and will help keep your CoG a little lower.

I always say get the tallest stem you can find, but I’ve never been a fan of forward bars on a banshee because of how front heavy they already are. The issue is that as you extend the length in the direction that the stem is already going, it does bring it back some, but I think that’s honestly beneficial to how most SHOULD be riding (leaning back).


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36 minutes ago, tfaith08 said:

Adding a month and $500 to a suspension build will always make it better. It always irks me when I see someone dump $3k into a setup and skip the fundamentals.

Either this is the first time i've seen this or i chose to ignore it over the years. Good post.

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1 minute ago, RagunCajun said:

Either this is the first time i've seen this or i chose to ignore it over the years. Good post.

It normally isn't needed for basic setups. Like +2 arms on a banshee that use stock length shocks. Elka should already know the needed shock length and compression length and the position. But anything custom or one off, you will need to give them tons of info.

Shock Length at extended (max length), shock length at compressed (min length), shock length at ride height (helps set up sag). They will like to know the frame height too. The more info you give the shock builder, the better they can set up your shocks.

 

 

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It normally isn't needed for basic setups. Like +2 arms on a banshee that use stock length shocks. Elka should already know the needed shock length and compression length and the position. But anything custom or one off, you will need to give them tons of info.
Shock Length at extended (max length), shock length at compressed (min length), shock length at ride height (helps set up sag). They will like to know the frame height too. The more info you give the shock builder, the better they can set up your shocks.
 
 


Most setups like that are pretty straight forward. It gets fucky when you have guys like me who like 18” front tires for MX whereas most pros run 20F/18R. That inch of difference will 100% change the setup, but most setups aren’t accurate enough to notice a change anyway. It affects wheel scrub, the leverage ratio, bump steer, and camber settings when you change tire size and adjust the suspension accordingly.

You usually can get away with things like changing tire size because if your ride height and compressed frame clearance is set for MX and you switch to 2-3” larger tires for XC, you’re still fairly accurate because you usually want that extra 1-1.5”.

Where you can’t get away with it is with companies that lean toward things like Baja or XC and you use their arms for MX. It can absolutely be done, but if your ride height is already high and you add 2-4” tires, you may be completely misusing your entire suspension setup.

At the end of the day, it all boils down to taking the time to follow the fundamentals.


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