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Banshee 4mm question


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Hi guys my banshee has fmf fattys with powercor2 and a moose racing boost bottle  jetted boyseen reed petals over sized rad  moose racing 250w stator/adjustable timing plate all else is stock that i know of 

and when i have to do some inside motor work i would like to go the 4mil route keeping the stock cylinders and im not sure how i would go about like what do i need 

 

thanks guys kevin

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Send it to a builder. A site sponsor.....

if you insist on building it yourself, talk to a builder, send them you jugs for over bore/port work, buy a cool head (whatever you want to call it) and the 4mm crank. get domes cut by said builder to match pistons/stroke. Follow builder recommendations on carbs/jetting/exhaust...... assemble it, break it in and ride the wheels off of it.

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6 hours ago, Toybreaker said:

Send it to a builder. A site sponsor.....

if you insist on building it yourself, talk to a builder, send them you jugs for over bore/port work, buy a cool head (whatever you want to call it) and the 4mm crank. get domes cut by said builder to match pistons/stroke. Follow builder recommendations on carbs/jetting/exhaust...... assemble it, break it in and ride the wheels off of it.

Ok thanks ill have to look for a builder 

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Driveline assasin cylinders, and crank with matching domes about $1200 shipped to your door.... you can do all the assembly... just need carbs and pipes to maximize the power out of it. This is my bikes next build.

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13 hours ago, SandSlingerOR said:

Can he port match the cases himself? 

 

13 hours ago, ClaudeMachining said:

I did mine.

Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk
 

A barely trained goat loving monkey could do it.....

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Two ways of making it work. The old school way of stroking was to put a spacer plate under the crank to make up for the added stroke and keep it from smashing the piston in to the head/dome. There are several reasons to avoid doing it this way. First, you raise the ports up and it makes the motor come on slower. Second, the ports aren't totally optimized for the stroke, negating the benefit of stroke. Plus the plate adds one more base gasket which is another air leak prone area that will quickly melt a motor. 

 

In recent years, guys have began setting up 4 mil strokers with the cylinders in the factory location instead of up on a plate. One gasket, or even just liquid sealant. Less prone to leak, and it keeps the ports lower so that the motor comes on a bit sooner. They adjust portwork for the desired ride style and cut the domes or factory chambers for fuel/compression needs. The domes are cut with a step to allow the piston crown to come up out of the deck and still not collide with the dome. This is the far more reliable and better running set up. I've got a few 4 mils on the bench and have tried several set ups and the non plate stuff always seems to live longer and hit a touch earlier if you're not doing a drag only set up. 

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