2005 Banshee having trouble.

[muggzy]

Get a climber manual and don't be intimidated to ask questions...... We all started exactly where you currently are. There is no such thing as a stupid question...... Only blown up motors because of stupid pride.....

Great advice here. Best in this thread. Definitely get the "Clymer's Manual for the Banshee" best investment you'll ever make. Your hard-starting issues definitely sound like your jetting is wrong.

Clean the carbs thoroughly and change your jets to the sizes Jereme6655 suggested. Also like J6655 suggested, never make more than one change at a time or you won't know what worked or didn't. However, a bad TORS switch can cause the engine not to run when you release the throttle. That's one main reason everyone deletes them ;-)

Since you got the TORS delete kit, go ahead and carefully install that and be sure the adjustment screw is tapped clean and that the face on the side of the carbs the you tapped from is flat and *filed* down far enough to allow you to adjust the slide height from zero to about 3/16 in. open when you view it from the intake side. Set that opening on both carbs to about half way for a starting point.

All of what I just said, you can do on the bench.
Also, when putting the slides in, there's a white dot on each slide. These should each face the outside (right or left) of the carb so they can be seen in the glass "window" on each carb side when the the throttle is wide open iirc.

The manual will show you what to expect with lots of (mostly) good pics before you dive in - like getting the slides off the throttle cables. But it won't tell you about aftermarket stuff like the TORS delete screw adjustment that I just described. Get the Clymer's manual and above all, be patient. I was exactly where you are years ago and wouldn't trade my Banshee for any other machine out there.



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[Jereme6655]

Yup. I definitely had some grammar errors there.......that and my phone was auto correcting things again. Lol 

 

[Jereme6655]

And also...I was trying to say "choke tube"...... There should be a small choke tube between your carbs

[Larry's Shee]

X-99 on the Clymers Repair manual. Nothing you can't do with that !!

Plus it has general repair information not specifically for the Banshee.  

When you tap the holes make sure they are on the outside/correct side of carbs. And go SLOWLY,  half turn in, quarter turn out to clear the chips. I don't recall what to use for cutting oil for aluminum, worst case lube it with candle wax or parafin was.

[BlackandYellowBanshee]

That is your vent tube on the coolant reservoir. It should be the top hose and runs the length of your frame to the front. It runs like that to prevent spilling when wheeling or tipping. If it’s coming out of there, I’d guess your coolant was too full.

[KC_Hubbs]

I started the Banshee and let it idle for about 30 seconds and it started spitting out the overflow tube.   However, it was spitting out what looked like oil.  It didnt have a gas smell, just felt and looked like oil.    

 

    I looked in the radiator and saw it has green coolant, and the overflow bottle in the back looked orange.    

 

   Im afraid Im having some serious problems.    My Clymer manual wont be here till Monday for me to read up on this. 

[hoppedupandcutdown]

Their are 2 hoses up to the steering stem that are just vents. One comes from the coolant jug for overflow of coolant.

Another is a vent for the transmission oil, it should T under the tank and one end go to the front of the clutch cover and the other the the very rear under the motor mount.

If the rear one is pinched or clogged, oil will be pushed out the other one when the trans is pressurized, even from when the oil gets hot and expands, it could siphon out.

[KC_Hubbs]

3 minutes ago, hoppedupandcutdown said:

Their are 2 hoses up to the steering stem that are just vents. One comes from the coolant jug for overflow of coolant.

Another is a vent for the transmission oil, it should T under the tank and one end go to the front of the clutch cover and the other the the very rear under the motor mount.

If the rear one is pinched or clogged, oil will be pushed out the other one when the trans is pressurized, even from when the oil gets hot and expands, it could siphon out.

Thank you so much.  Ill check on this first thing in the morning.  I hope that this is what it is.  

 

     I also have say, that Banshee in your profile photo is probably the greatest looking Banshee Ive ever seen.  I love that color combo. 

    

[KC_Hubbs]

I checked the transmission lines this morning.  Sure enough the one going to the back was plugged.  

   Apparently, when i put the clamp on the boot for the airbox, i grabbed the transmission line as well and pinched it shut.  Everything seems okay now. 

 

    Just waiting for my new jets and, TORS eliminator kit to be here tomorrow. 

[BlackandYellowBanshee]

1 hour ago, KC_Hubbs said:

I checked the transmission lines this morning.  Sure enough the one going to the back was plugged.  

   Apparently, when i put the clamp on the boot for the airbox, i grabbed the transmission line as well and pinched it shut.  Everything seems okay now. 

 

    Just waiting for my new jets and, TORS eliminator kit to be here tomorrow. 

Sounds like you are getting on the right path. Is it still lunging forward when you kick it over? Or did the issue fix itself?

[Jereme6655]

So when you're doing your leakdown test...... Are you plugging the intake boots with PVC or just trying to pinch it shut? I'm pretty sure I'm just misinterpreting how you're saying you did it. Either way..... Your only supposed to pressurize the engine up to 6psi. You're looking to see that it holds air and doesn't leak out at a greater rate than 1psi per minute. 

Personally the thought of having a leak that size is spooky to me. So even if it does pass the 1psi per minute leak rate......I still go back and try for better.

My dune/play port motor that Jeff from F.A.S.T. racing ported, held 6psi for over 20 minutes after I got it reassembled. 

[KC_Hubbs]

17 hours ago, BlackandYellowBanshee said:

Sounds like you are getting on the right path. Is it still lunging forward when you kick it over? Or did the issue fix itself?

It still does this on the first start.  After it runs for a few minutes it stops doing it.   I read somewhere that it could just be thick oil and cold.  My Clymers book will be here today.  Im hoping to learn a lot from it. 

[KC_Hubbs]

9 hours ago, Jereme6655 said:

So when you're doing your leakdown test...... Are you plugging the intake boots with PVC or just trying to pinch it shut? I'm pretty sure I'm just misinterpreting how you're saying you did it. Either way..... Your only supposed to pressurize the engine up to 6psi. You're looking to see that it holds air and doesn't leak out at a greater rate than 1psi per minute. 

Personally the thought of having a leak that size is spooky to me. So even if it does pass the 1psi per minute leak rate......I still go back and try for better.

My dune/play port motor that Jeff from F.A.S.T. racing ported, held 6psi for over 20 minutes after I got it reassembled. 

I havent performed a leak down test yet.  My test kit just came in today.   I bought one from "South Texas Banshee". m not sure if hes a member on here or not.   

 

         I took the clamp off the boot when I was cleaning the carbs out.  So that was what lead to my mistake of clamping off the transmission line. 

 

     MY jets will be here today as well.  Ill have 280s in the main, and 27.5 in the pilot.  Im hoping to install the tors eliminator kit this week as well.  After all this stuff in installed, im going to do a plug chop and see what it looks like.