2005 Banshee having trouble.

[hoppedupandcutdown]

What dimple, on what cap, and why would you try to put in on at an angle?

[Banshee2105]

What dimple, on what cap, and why would you try to put in on at an angle?

The caps on the bottom of the carbs are different. One is for the choke side carb, and that one has a little brass BB/dimple on it that lets the choke function. If you switch them, the bike will run but the choke won't work and it will be more difficult to start.

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[Banshee2105]

The caps on the bottom of the carbs are different. One is for the choke side carb, and that one has a little brass BB/dimple on it that lets the choke function. If you switch them, the bike will run but the choke won't work and it will be more difficult to start.

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Clarification: The BB doesn't let the choke function that's just how I tell it's the left side cap. Idk maybe OP didn't know, so I thought I'd tell him.

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[hoppedupandcutdown]

Bowls. Those are bowls.

Nothing to do with TORS.

[Banshee2105]

Bowls. Those are bowls.
Nothing to do with TORS.

It's been a long day.

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[KC_Hubbs]

Just finished putting the carbs back on, and ran a compression test.  

Both sides are showing right around 148lbs.   Im a little worried since 120 is new right ?

 

   Thing still will not start.   

 

I notived that if i try to start it with in gear and the clutch pulled it tries to move farward.    I cant move it with the thing in gear and the clutch pressed, i have to put it in neutral. 

 

[KC_Hubbs]

Just got it push started in like 6 ft.  However, it wont idle.  As soon as i let off the throttle it dies.  

 

I push started it like 10 times and it would never start via the kick start.  Sounded like it was doing more though.  

 

    The throttle was real stiff. 

[BlackandYellowBanshee]

Your motor will not increase in compression. It will decrease over time. 148 is good depending on what kind of motor work has been done. It sounds like you need to adjust your clutch or your friction plates are stuck to the metal plates in your clutch basket. This usually happens if the bike sits for a long long time tho. I would definitely re-adjust your clutch. Your clutch cable could also be stretched to the point that you are out of adjustment and need a new cable. Throttle being stiff could just be that the cable needs lubed or something is going on with your slides or your needle is gummed up. Did you check jetting? Let some of these guys who really know jetting what pipes you have, type and size of carbs, and type of air intake. Also elevation. Doing a leak down test would also be a great idea. Don’t get too frustrated. It doesn’t sound like the issues you have are too serious, but it will definitely help to know the motor is leak free. And the jetting. The clutch issues can be fixed no problem.

Edited April 17, 2018 by BlackandYellowBanshee

[KC_Hubbs]

Im extremely new to all of this, so i may need a little hand holding here. 

 

   How would I check jetting ? 

    I have a Pro Circuit exhaust.   

   The carbs have the name "Mikuni" on them, how would i find the size ?

    The air intake has a K&N Filter on it.  

 

     Elevation here is about 1450ft.  

[KC_Hubbs]

Update. 

 

   I was told not to give the banshees any throttle when starting them due to flooding issues.     However, i gave it the slightest bit of throttle and it starts on the first kick.  It kind of makes since it dies instantly if you dont give it any throttle, how can it start without it. 

 

    However, just the weight of your thumb on the throttle makes it seem the engine is reving up too high.  You cant take off slow.  

 

    I ordered a tors eliminator kit, should be here monday.  Im hoping new throttle cables may help the issue.  Anything else i can look for?

[camp0429]

Every Banshee I have every seen usually needs a slight touch of throttle while you kick it. May not need to but it don't hurt, it's a habit for me now

[97Screamer]

If it revs high with little to no throttle that often means air leak. Air leak = time bomb. Search for leak down test on here and do a leak down before you run the bike anymore. Since you will have the carbs out anyways it is a perfect time to do one.

[KC_Hubbs]

I just ordered a kit do to a leakdown test.   Ill check that as well. 

 

[Jereme6655]

Okay. We can tell you're a little green. Remember to always change one thing at a time. It will keep you less stressed.

Also.....I can tell you right now from the way you described your jets....(if they really are what you posted) that you are running it lean. The 2.5 is actually a 25 pilit jet. Which is stock. The 200 you posted is are 200 main jets.... also stock.

Anytime you put performance parts on a 2 stroke.... Especially banshees... You must account for the extra fuel that is needed via jetting. My guess you should be closer to a 27.5 pilot and roughly  260 or 270 main jets depending on your altitude and the temp. Go to the jetting forum here and look up plug chops. And also read up on how temp and elevation effect jetting.

Also since you're new to banshees..... Look between your carbs, there should be a black vacuum time between them. That is what applies choke to both cylinders since only one had the choke knob. 

When doing compression checks, you need to hold the throttle wide open (with key off) and kick hard until the needle stops moving.

Also the quick revving part could be attributed to two things, first it's a 2 stroke........ These motors are high revving high strung things. Second..... If it is running lean based on jetting.... It can make the fast rev symptom worse.

 

Get a climber manual and don't be intimidated to ask questions...... We all started exactly where you currently are. There is no such thing as a stupid question...... Only blown up motors because of stupid pride.....

 

[KC_Hubbs]

1 hour ago, Jereme6655 said:

Okay. We can tell you're a little green. Remember to always change one thing at a time. It will keep you less stressed.

Also.....I can tell you right now from the way you described your jets....(if they really are what you posted) that you are running it lean. The 2.5 is actually a 25 pilit jet. Which is stock. The 200 you posted is are 200 main jets.... also stock.

Anytime you put performance parts on a 2 stroke.... Especially banshees... You must account for the extra fuel that is needed via jetting. My guess you should be closer to a 27.5 pilot and roughly  260 or 270 main jets depending on your altitude and the temp. Go to the jetting forum here and look up plug chops. And also read up on how temp and elevation effect jetting.

Also since you're new to banshees..... Look between your carbs, there should be a black vacuum time between them. That is what applies choke to both cylinders since only one had the choke knob. 

When doing compression checks, you need to hold the throttle wide open (with key off) and kick hard until the needle stops moving.

Also the quick revving part could be attributed to two things, first it's a 2 stroke........ These motors are high revving high strung things. Second..... If it is running lean based on jetting.... It can make the fast rev symptom worse.

 

Get a climber manual and don't be intimidated to ask questions...... We all started exactly where you currently are. There is no such thing as a stupid question...... Only blown up motors because of stupid pride.....

 

Thanks for all the info. Ive been doing a lot of reading in my spare time. 

   I did find out what those numbers meant on the jets. I did some reading, and seems like a lot of guys running my set up and my altitude (1500'), run 280 jets.  A lot of the post i read on here guys were leaving the stock pilot jets.   I ordered some 280 main jets so compensate for the exhaust and air filter.   I will order some 27.5 pilot jets if you think I should. 

 

I ordered myself a Clymer manual so I can learn a few things. 

 

     Today I took the slides out of the carbs and I found that the left side slide was stuck what seems like a little in the open position.  I pulled it out, and cleaned the slide and re-inserted it the correct way and put everything back together.    Now, it seems to rev up normal.  I still have to hold my thumb on the throttle to keep it idling, if i let off it dies.

      Now, Im a little worried. I drove it around for about 3 mins while checking the how the throttle acted after I got the slide is working order, and I notice that there is coolant coming from a small tube on the right side of the bike, located behind the radiator.  It looks like a drain tube, and seems to be coming from the coolant bottle in the back.  Could I have possibly blown a head gasket from running the bike about 3 mins (at low speeds) with a stuck slide, or is there something else I can look for ?